I'm going to be building a new house in the future and am starting to gather up materials for everything. I've been reading about floor epoxies and looking at UCoatit but I've been reading here that you want to use a 100% solids epoxy which UCoatit it not The key with this floor is once it's not I DO NOT want to have to do it again. Is UCoatit good enough or should I use a 100% solids epoxy?
Good Epoxy floor coating
- Thread starter ratman2
- Start date
porschedude996TT
Well-known member
One word "Wolverine",
http://wolverinecoatings.com/web/?author=1
Available from "Alphagarage" right here on GJ.
I'm planning on pulling the trigger in a week or two.
http://wolverinecoatings.com/web/?author=1
Available from "Alphagarage" right here on GJ.
I'm planning on pulling the trigger in a week or two.
Been reading about this stuff and can't wait to hear from AG
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Our competitors can speak for themselves, and in this case they do.
UCoat it has their basic kit, which if you look at the MSDS is around 45% solids, which means it's also about 55% water. Is that a high quality coating? Well, let's let them answer.
Looking at their full product list it shows that they sell an add-on kit, "UClad." From their description:
"What is UClad?
UClad is a high-build, self-leveling epoxy floor coating kit. The material pours down and spreads out to smooth over rough, damaged or worn surfaces. It provides greater resistance to heavy duty use in mechanical areas or professional repair facilities. UClad is an odor-free, non-combustible product for interior use on concrete and wood floor surfaces. UClad is typically applied between the bond and finish coats of the UCoat system. "
Sounds good to us, which is why the only epoxy we sell here is a 100% solid, two part epoxy. Not sure exactly what's in the Uclad, but Wolverine's LiquaTile 1184 has ceramic content, which results in a very hard coating. But hardness isn't everything ( after all -glass is extremely hard also). So the 2nd beneficial property of the ceramic results partially from the way it's incorporated after the epoxy cures, it has an internal cross-linked structure, in essence it forms an integrated "trampoline". So while it's very durable, it remains a bit flexible, which protects the coating itself as well as the substrate by being able to absorb shocks and impacts. One of our customers posted a thread about how dropped tools sort of make a off "thump" noise and bounce.
From what I can tell, 1.5 gallons of their high quality epoxy (not their lesser base product) costs $224.95 per 1.5 gallons. Our LiquaTile is $225 for a 3 gallon kit. Both are spec'd at 12 mils depth.
But it looks like they may have a better idea in at least one area, what do you think... Does pricing things at "$**.95" instead of "$**" really make for a more attractive product? To me it seems better all around to charge the extra nickel, but offer twice as much product - your thoughts?
UCoat it has their basic kit, which if you look at the MSDS is around 45% solids, which means it's also about 55% water. Is that a high quality coating? Well, let's let them answer.
Looking at their full product list it shows that they sell an add-on kit, "UClad." From their description:
"What is UClad?
UClad is a high-build, self-leveling epoxy floor coating kit. The material pours down and spreads out to smooth over rough, damaged or worn surfaces. It provides greater resistance to heavy duty use in mechanical areas or professional repair facilities. UClad is an odor-free, non-combustible product for interior use on concrete and wood floor surfaces. UClad is typically applied between the bond and finish coats of the UCoat system. "
Sounds good to us, which is why the only epoxy we sell here is a 100% solid, two part epoxy. Not sure exactly what's in the Uclad, but Wolverine's LiquaTile 1184 has ceramic content, which results in a very hard coating. But hardness isn't everything ( after all -glass is extremely hard also). So the 2nd beneficial property of the ceramic results partially from the way it's incorporated after the epoxy cures, it has an internal cross-linked structure, in essence it forms an integrated "trampoline". So while it's very durable, it remains a bit flexible, which protects the coating itself as well as the substrate by being able to absorb shocks and impacts. One of our customers posted a thread about how dropped tools sort of make a off "thump" noise and bounce.
From what I can tell, 1.5 gallons of their high quality epoxy (not their lesser base product) costs $224.95 per 1.5 gallons. Our LiquaTile is $225 for a 3 gallon kit. Both are spec'd at 12 mils depth.
But it looks like they may have a better idea in at least one area, what do you think... Does pricing things at "$**.95" instead of "$**" really make for a more attractive product? To me it seems better all around to charge the extra nickel, but offer twice as much product - your thoughts?
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thegarageguy
Well-known member
I think they would say to brush up on your math!! (jk) 45% solids means 55% water or solvents or whatever.
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Dang! Must have missed that day in math class! Thanks for catching that - I'll correct with an edit.
There are some things that I constantly trip over, words that I mispronounce, words that even as I say them I know it's coming out wrong; words I misspell ("freinds,"restaraunt"), and some math situations that get me - for some reason numbers around 40/60 get me. The 30/70 range is okay, as is 20/80 - but adding and subtracting 40's and 60's are problematic. So check those invoices carefully! (although an error in your favor is as likely and one in my favor).
There are some things that I constantly trip over, words that I mispronounce, words that even as I say them I know it's coming out wrong; words I misspell ("freinds,"restaraunt"), and some math situations that get me - for some reason numbers around 40/60 get me. The 30/70 range is okay, as is 20/80 - but adding and subtracting 40's and 60's are problematic. So check those invoices carefully! (although an error in your favor is as likely and one in my favor).
Ok AG I got a question for you. I'm now at the point where I'm ready to talk about estimates for the area that I need to cover. I have a 733.5 square foot area of concrete floor that will need to be coated. What product do I use, how much will it cost and do you have a color chart anywhere?
jdub63
Well-known member
Try AlphaGarage web site. He has an estimator that will help you price for the quantity needed and show the colors available. I just put down over 1200 square feet of Wolverine Epoxy and I'm very satisfied with the outcome. Quality stuff.
nate379
Banned
Knowing what I know now I would have not messed with epoxy and just used a good sealer on my slab. Not that mine turned out bad, but I would be less worried about beating up the floor.
I went with the Quick Crete kit they sell at Lowe's and it's been holding up great. I didn't go with the "pro" stuff because A- Cost. B... they said it wouldn't hold up to welding. Now I don't know about you all but what's the point if you can't weld in your garage?
I spent about $350 to put 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear on my slab. Garage isn't that big though, only about ~625 sq ft.
I went with the Quick Crete kit they sell at Lowe's and it's been holding up great. I didn't go with the "pro" stuff because A- Cost. B... they said it wouldn't hold up to welding. Now I don't know about you all but what's the point if you can't weld in your garage?
I spent about $350 to put 3 coats of color and 3 coats of clear on my slab. Garage isn't that big though, only about ~625 sq ft.
I just tried to use the estimator and it would not calculate the price when everything was done
PontiacFan
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2007
- Messages
- 102
I just tried to use the estimator and it would not calculate the price when everything was done
You must've missed something along the way.
I just did it & it worked fine.
I found the problem. There's a bug in the estimator where it will not calculate if you do not select a topcoat option.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ratman:
Not to throw a wrench in the works.
However, we offer a 100% solids high build coating as well.
HD-707.
It is low smell and HIGH HIDE.
99.00 per 1.5 gal kit.
We have a few customer pics on the site.
www.legacyindustrial.net
Thanks.
-Scotty
Not to throw a wrench in the works.
However, we offer a 100% solids high build coating as well.
HD-707.
It is low smell and HIGH HIDE.
99.00 per 1.5 gal kit.
We have a few customer pics on the site.
www.legacyindustrial.net
Thanks.
-Scotty
AlphaGarage
Well-known member
Thank you for the comments! Many of our clients come to us via referrals from friends, and we very much appreciate your kind words and honest reviews of our products and customer service. There's just nothing that matches the endorsement of someone you trust who speaks from experience.
Yup - we're having trouble with some aspects of the site. We hired a firm to construct the site, and a few months ago the owners of the firm had a nasty business divorce. Unfortunately we were caught in the middle like some fought over kid. That's been cleared up and we've just brought on a contractor to get things right. May take a few weeks, but we're looking forward to having everything work as well as our epoxy.
In the meantime just PM me or drop me an email ([email protected])and I'll personally help you with your projects.
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All right....time to revisit this thread. I have a 676 sq ft garage floor that I have to cover. Also, the hard part is this floor is just big enough to get pricey and i'm trying to do this on a budget. I have looked at UCoatIT, Wolverine, Legacy Industrial, and Behr. The Behr 2 part is the lowest at $222. However I have the sick feeling that I'm going to get what I pay for.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Ratman:
We have some inexpensive options for a budget job, not sparing the quality.
We can talk tomorrow.
Brentocool
Well-known member
Brentocool
Well-known member
Where did you get the rustoleum pro?
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Prep is the most important part and you will do the same prep and application work no matter which product you choose.
That said, wouldn't you want to use a product that will last longer if you are going to do the same amount of work?
A quality product does make a difference when it comes to garage floors as they are treated to dynamic traffic whereas wall paint just has to hang on the wall!
That said, wouldn't you want to use a product that will last longer if you are going to do the same amount of work?
A quality product does make a difference when it comes to garage floors as they are treated to dynamic traffic whereas wall paint just has to hang on the wall!
Brentocool
Well-known member
Menards. but I am finding out that the dark color shows any dust or dirt bad!! But I guess i will know when to wash it!!
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Brentocool
Well-known member
I agree if you can swing top of the line product then do it. I couldnt with all the other remodeling I;m doing out there. I still have to buy a lift and build a shed. I have not heard anything bad about rustoleum though. I would use gray if I could have it back... they also can mix other colors right at the store. they have brick red which is what i used. gray,tan..on the shelves. Heres one tip. when you throw the paint chips on the floor.Try to bounce the off the ceiling as hard as you can throw them. let them rain down on the floor. Under my garage doors open I just bounced them off the open door as hard as I could. this will give you a nice even pattern on the floor. My neighbor did his and I can see exactly where he stood when he applied them!! Home Depot sells it too!!
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kyles974
Well-known member
"In my past experiences I've gone with a product called the surface guardian. "
.........is this because you SELL surface guardian?
.........is this because you SELL surface guardian?