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In a pickel -- any ideas to help extract this tiny sheared-off screw?

olytdi

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IMG_2083.jpg

This is a dog fence collar receiver I just got on a warranty replacement. I then proceeded to over tighten and shear-off the stud that attaches it to the collar as you can see in the right of the two threaded holes.

Any creative ideas on how to get that sheared-off stud out? The piece that I need to remove is only about 1/16 to 3/32 wide and is slightly recessed into the female piece. I thought about cutting a slot in the stud but don't know what I'd use to do that as it's recessed. I guess I could cut through the whole thing such that I get a slot in the remaining stud. Perfect job for a precision laser! The alternative is that I'm out $179.00 for a new one. So there's exactly $179 worth of motivation for me to solve this!

Sorry for the slightly out of focus photo.
 
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3rdgendslmech

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this is a long shot but it could work.....the screw looks like it broke clean, IE no jagged edge to grab hold of.
Take a small amount of super glue and dab it onto the broken piece and place the screw head back on and hold it there for a few minutes. Dont use too much glue because it'll just lock the broke piece into place. After it cures for an hour or so try to back it out?
 
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olytdi

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this is a long shot but it could work.....the screw looks like it broke clean, IE no jagged edge to grab hold of.
Take a small amount of super glue and dab it onto the broken piece and place the screw head back on and hold it there for a few minutes. Dont use too much glue because it'll just lock the broke piece into place. After it cures for an hour or so try to back it out?
I thought about that but was concerned that I'd glue the stud to the female piece. There is blue loctite on the stud which I think probably would overpower the superglue. Though this will be on my list for the final attempts! Thanks!
 

MoonRise

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Pffft. Sinker EDM to make a precision hole, then a left hand tap and a left hand screw to unscrew the broken piece. :lol:

Use the Dremel and a small grinder bit (not the slitting/cut-off wheel) to make a slot. Unscrew with a slotted screwdriver.

Left hand drill bit and it might come out with just that. If it doesn't, then use the ez-out in the hole and extract the broken piece.
 
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andrew61987

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It's basically already been mentioned, but I would use one of those tiny cutoff wheels (like 1.25" dia?) In a Dremel kit to slot the end so i can turn it with the biggest fla flat head screwdriver that will fit. You will have no choice but to also slot some of the plastic it seems. Up to you to determine if that will ruin the part or not since you have it in hand.
 

06 DIESEL

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Plenty of great ideas above, but when you do get it out and are putting the new one it, in my experience with ours as soon as it makes contact stop. There is no reason to torque it at all, that is what the blue is for.
 

CraigStu

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I like the left hand bit and the engraver are my favorites. If they don't work than do rancherbill's wire tie and/or tape. I assume the two bosses where the screws are fit into a hole in the collar. So if you have one screw usable, and both bosses settle into their holes, the tape/wire tie doesn't really have a lot of work to do.
 
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olytdi

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I like the left hand bit and the engraver are my favorites. If they don't work than do rancherbill's wire tie and/or tape. I assume the two bosses where the screws are fit into a hole in the collar. So if you have one screw usable, and both bosses settle into their holes, the tape/wire tie doesn't really have a lot of work to do.
Yeah, these threaded studs are the electrodes and also sandwich a washer plate and the collar material together. So it's serving a number of functions.
 

Kaizen

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I would be hesitant about glue or epoxy as this makes the shock connection. perhaps won't work or could cause injury.
On this topic.....has your dog tried to leave the area? even if the shock does not work it will hear the beep noise and that usually stops mine. actually after a year my dogs don't even use the collar. they are trained by the beep
 
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olytdi

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I would be hesitant about glue or epoxy as this makes the shock connection. perhaps won't work or could cause injury.
On this topic.....has your dog tried to leave the area? even if the shock does not work it will hear the beep noise and that usually stops mine. actually after a year my dogs don't even use the collar. they are trained by the beep
Yeah, mine's pretty much trained to keep on the property but I want the collar to ensure that over time -- especially if a coyote is involved. I exchanged the collar because the warning beep wasn't working any longer...
 
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olytdi

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If you remove the screw on the left side, will it come apart? Giving you more room to work?
no, what you see in the photo are two aluminum recessed receiving "nuts" that are pressed into the poly frame. in the right of the two, you can see the snapped off stainless screw, the stud of which is recesses below the surface. it's that stud I'm trying to remove.
 

drmarkr

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Pretty sure no one makes an easy out for 1/16 inch. I did order lefty bits. once I get it going, I'll try a very slow approach - maybe even on a T handle.
lol...missed the 1/16". But the lefty bit might do the trick without the easy out!
 

TractorJeff

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Follow Kay's suggestion as you mentioned blue Loctite on the stud/screw. You need to heat that to soften it for any kind of extraction. Slice right down thru the threaded boss till you hit the stud/screw. Then use a screwdriver
 
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olytdi

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Okay, wanted to follow up on this in case anyone brain farts to the degree I did and ends up in a similar predicament.

I got a 1/16 left-handed drill bit and placed the dog collar receiver in a vise on my drill press table. Because my drill press does not go backward, I then placed a hand drill in another vise above it and made it plumb. I then simply slowly raised the drill press table (probably a hundredth of a inch at a time) with the work up into the stationary drill bit that I had turning counter-clockwise at the slowest speed possible (probably about 45 rpm). Kept things centered by looking through a desk magnifier the whole time. It took about 45 - 60 minutes of really slow drilling before it became evident that the bit wasn't going to just grab and extract the screw shaft. So after going full depth in the broken-off stud, I then used the awl on my Victorinox Multitool and sort of gently seated the blade side of the awl into the inner wall of the hole I had drilled. With slow and gentle pressure, I was able to back-out the broken stud and put the new one in without snapping it off this time!

Anyway, I just wanted to follow up on what happened. I am glad I was in for only $6.95 for a bit and an hour or two of time instead of having to fork over the $$$ for another new receiver. Slow and steady wins the race.

Now if I can just learn from this...
 
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