IKEA Alex boxes + Nozzle Clogs
After clearing the hot end clog from having my retractions set too high, I thought everything was working as it should with the 3d printer. As a little tester project, I printed some organizational boxes for the IKEA Alex drawer units that are the base cabinets of my office desk, to store some of the printer accessories and organize the drawers a little better.
Turned out fine, but I noticed the first layer was under-extruded:
I gave E-steps a quick check since I hadn't recalibrated with the new hot end. It wasn't off by much (97mm extruded instead of 100mm), but I saved the corrected value anyways. Next box, first layer looked good.
And so I printed a bunch of these.
They were from a Thingiverse file, but I ended up just using the measurements and designing additional sizes in Fusion360, with extra compartments, etc.

Some of these larger boxes were 5 hr prints.
As you can see everything was going fine, until on the 7th or 8th box, I got the dreaded extruder clicking at the beginning of the print. Filament was barely coming out and made a crispy mess on the print bed.
Figuring it was another blockage, I took the hot end apart, but everything looked good as far as I could tell. So I put it back together and extruded some filament manually. It seemed to be coming out ok. Started another print.
SAME THING. Extruder clicking and slipping.
So I took the extruder arm off to check the gear. Looked pretty clean?
The gear has a little wear in the middle but it's barely noticeable to the naked eye.
I mean maybe that's the problem but it doesn't look bad to me.
When reassembling, I adjusted the gear height so the filament would contact a "fresh" section.
Same thing, extruder slips. I also played with the tension of the release arm and that didn't change the results, either.
So now I don't know what to do. Order a new extruder gear, perhaps a hardened steel one? Try a dual-gear metal extruder? Take the printer apart and make sure the voltage is good on the new motherboard to the extruder motor? Play around with slicer settings (temperature etc)? Not only on the GJ boards here, but at my work too I know multiple people with Ender 3v2's or the Ender 3 Pro. They have not had constant issues. It just seems like it shouldn't be... this hard.
The micro center near me as the Ender 3 S1 for $279 right now. Seems like a smokin' deal and I'm so tempted to just get that and Craigslist the 3v2. I'd sort of feel like a cop out, and I don't know that it will fix all my problems, but it would be a fresh start and it has some serious upgrades like the direct drive dual-gear extruder, powered dual-z axis, and CR-touch auto leveling. What I do know is I'm tired of having to fix something every couple of prints. It's literally been 3x prints, problem, 3x prints, problem, for the longest time.
Thanks for listening to my rant.
