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Channellock Nutbuster vs Knipex Raptor.
- Thread starter 809
- Start date
They serve different purposes in my opinion, and neither one is a great option for frozen automotive bolts. Raptor pliers have smooth jaws, so they are more for firmly gripping bolt heads and nut heads in a way that's non-damaging as long as the fastener can handle the applied compression forces without deforming. The handles also have some flex to them, so Raptor pliers will often feel a little spongy if you apply higher levels of torque to them. I use mine for jobs like adjusting tie rods when working on cars. Their main drawback is that like a regular adjustable wrench, you need a noticeable amount of space around the fastener in order to grab it, as well as swing room for the handles. This greatly limits their usefulness inside an engine compartment. The jaws of Raptor pliers are also noticeably narrower than the hinge area of the pliers. As a result they work very poorly for grabbing fastener heads that might be sticking up from a flat surface, because they can't grab a fastener head well when the sides of the plier jaws are tilted down at an angle. This makes them largely useless for grabbing many frozen bolt heads.
If you are working on a more fragile fitting like a thin metal or plastic tubing/ferrule nut which can't handle much compressive force without deforming or breaking, a regular flare nut wrench or an adjustable wrench will often be the better tool as well, because those tools can usually provide enough grip to get the job done without applying compression to the fitting in the process. As you can see, Raptor pliers have a narrow range of usefulness.
Turning a rounded off bolt, a bolt with a heavily rusted head that almost looks round, or for removing a threaded stud, Channellock Nutbuster pliers are a much better option. Nutbuster pliers are better when the primary desire is for a fastener to come out, but you were already planning on replacing it so damaging it in the process is not an issue. Nutbuster pliers will leave tooth marks, gouges, etc. on the fastener, but they will also grip the object much better in almost all cases. You still need to have enough room for the pliers to fit though. They do have a small hinge rivet head that prevents the side of the plier jaws from laying flush against flat surfaces, but the issue isn't nearly as bad as it is with the Raptor pliers. Nutbuster pliers are almost like small narrow-jawed pipe wrenches in terms of what they can grab and how well they bite in. I personally only have the 9.5" 410 Nutbuster pliers, I never found the 14" 414 Nutbuster pliers I had useful so I sold them off several years ago.
When it comes to removing frozen bolts in automotive applications, most people would be better served by skipping the Raptor and Nutbuster pliers. Instead, look into buying a bolt extractor set that can be used along with a wrench or ratchet. Something that covers the fastener size range you need, and has good online ratings. A set like that will be able to remove a much larger percentage of the frozen bolt heads you might encounter in an engine compartment.
Here's a great video that shows how bolt extractor sets are used along with some general design comparison information. It should get you started if you aren't familiar with them already.
If you are working on a more fragile fitting like a thin metal or plastic tubing/ferrule nut which can't handle much compressive force without deforming or breaking, a regular flare nut wrench or an adjustable wrench will often be the better tool as well, because those tools can usually provide enough grip to get the job done without applying compression to the fitting in the process. As you can see, Raptor pliers have a narrow range of usefulness.
Turning a rounded off bolt, a bolt with a heavily rusted head that almost looks round, or for removing a threaded stud, Channellock Nutbuster pliers are a much better option. Nutbuster pliers are better when the primary desire is for a fastener to come out, but you were already planning on replacing it so damaging it in the process is not an issue. Nutbuster pliers will leave tooth marks, gouges, etc. on the fastener, but they will also grip the object much better in almost all cases. You still need to have enough room for the pliers to fit though. They do have a small hinge rivet head that prevents the side of the plier jaws from laying flush against flat surfaces, but the issue isn't nearly as bad as it is with the Raptor pliers. Nutbuster pliers are almost like small narrow-jawed pipe wrenches in terms of what they can grab and how well they bite in. I personally only have the 9.5" 410 Nutbuster pliers, I never found the 14" 414 Nutbuster pliers I had useful so I sold them off several years ago.
When it comes to removing frozen bolts in automotive applications, most people would be better served by skipping the Raptor and Nutbuster pliers. Instead, look into buying a bolt extractor set that can be used along with a wrench or ratchet. Something that covers the fastener size range you need, and has good online ratings. A set like that will be able to remove a much larger percentage of the frozen bolt heads you might encounter in an engine compartment.
Here's a great video that shows how bolt extractor sets are used along with some general design comparison information. It should get you started if you aren't familiar with them already.
Last edited:
BigLeagueSmoes
Well-known member
+1 for everything @Tools4Me said.
I can't really add anything more of substantial value that he didn't already say. I do have some Channelock nut busters and a few times they have helped remove rounded off nuts because they do a get a good bite that you don't get with other pliers. Never tried them on super rusty nuts. They're cool to have but I haven't used mine a whole lot. The Rocket Socket rounded nut remover set seem like the best way to go in my opinion
I can't really add anything more of substantial value that he didn't already say. I do have some Channelock nut busters and a few times they have helped remove rounded off nuts because they do a get a good bite that you don't get with other pliers. Never tried them on super rusty nuts. They're cool to have but I haven't used mine a whole lot. The Rocket Socket rounded nut remover set seem like the best way to go in my opinion
Junkdrawer Dog
Well-known member
I've always thought that's what they were designed to do. Sort of a pliers manufacturers alternative to a pipe wrench. I've owned and used the 410 and they are rough as hell on whatever they grip. If you can get a Nutbuster on it though, and apply some leverage, it WILL turn!Nutbuster pliers are almost like small narrow-jawed pipe wrenches in terms of what they can grab and how well they bite in.
seber
Well-known member
In the past those were called parrot beak pliers. I have a very old pair that are almost worn out. Picked up a pair of HF copies that look identical but haven't had much use for them so can't comment on quality.
Junkdrawer Dog
Well-known member
Exactly my situation so I packaged them up with another small lot of Channellock stuff and sold on CL.They're cool to have but I haven't used mine a whole lot.