Which tool to cut 3/4" x 2-1/2" Solid Stainless?

[chad s]

I have a small project where I will need to make a quantity of 24 cuts in 304 stainless steel bar that is solid 3/4" by 2-1/2" stock.

I do not have a large band saw, chop saw, or cold saw.

I do need decently nice cuts, that are good vertical 90 degrees, so I can weld the 45 degree mitre cuts to form corners.

I think that an abrasive wheel chop saw, while cheapest, may be dreadful for 24 cuts.

There is the evolution Rage 2 dry saw, but they rate it for a max size of 1/4" wall tubing. I dont care if the blade cuts the 24 cuts I need and never makes another cut, but to ruin it on the first cut would be a disaster. If it will cut 1/4" wall, I dont see why it wouldnt cut solid stock thats 3/4" thick, just take longer, and make more wear on the blade per cut. Is this thinking out of line?

The last option is one of the inexpensive 4x6 band saws. Can I expect to get one of these to make a decent 90 degree cut without the blade wandering and going off coarse, without a ton of time modifying and adjusting it? The cheap bandsaw is really the route Id least want to go with, unless it is absolutely necessary.

Any guidance?

 

[Atlascycle]

do you already have the material? if not you might want to consider purchasing the material pre-cut or find a local shop to cut it for you.


Jason

 

[chad s]

I have the material. The metal supply wont do 45 degree cuts, and cannot guarantee perfect cuts, they are just rough cuts.

 

[gorilla]

The chop saw will not work well for what you need to do. Cold saws don't work all that well on SS'T in my experience. I think that a horizontal band saw is your best choice, you will need a good blade and will need to tune-up the band saw before you start. You can make small corrections with a belt sander if needed. Why can't you but weld the corners? It seems to me that to weld 3/4" SS'T you will need to bevel the weld joints.

 

[Brad54]

The internet is FULL of posts and even sites singing the praises of the cheap 4x6 horizontal band saws. I had one, and was extremely happy with it. There's a lot to be said for keeping things simple, and those saws certainly are.

I agree that an abrasive cut-off saw is not what you're after.

With some fine-tuning and attention to detail, the HF 4x6 saws are excellent. The biggest problem is that they have an incredibly cheap stand.

If you get one, I'll bet you end up using it a lot more than you thought you would.
The only reason I got rid of mine is because I did some trading and got a ShopFox 5x8 horizontal saw that has a sturdy base, and a really solid cast steel miter gauge, and it took up less floor space.

After the trade and selling my HF one, I was $50 ahead. Otherwise I'd still have the HF saw.
-Brad

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

chad,

Find a local steel fabricator. They will be more than willing to make the cuts for you. If you can stand them being slightly "pinched", they can do them a lot faster in a shear. If they need to be saw cut, they can gang saw them either on a cut off (band) saw or in a cold saw.

 

[Jack Olsen]

The internet's also full of advice on how to mod and tweak those 4x6 saws to get them to cut straight and consistently, which might aggravate you if time and/or material to test on is an issue.

In your shoes, I think I'd look for a shop that could do it.

 

[Brad54]

The internet's also full of advice on how to mod and tweak those 4x6 saws to get them to cut straight and consistently, which might aggravate you if time and/or material to test on is an issue.

In your shoes, I think I'd look for a shop that could do it.

This is always my downfall... I would rather buy a tool and have it in the shop for next time, than pay someone to do it with their tool.

However, because of this mentality, I'm "That Guy" in the neighborhood, and with all my car-guy buddies, too. Not a bad position to be in, actually!

-Brad

 

[Abbott]

HF 4x6 bandsaw stand upgrade made with 1/2" plywood and some red Rustoleum paint. I screwed the plywood into the sheet metal stand.

Then I cut some 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" blocks about 6" long out of a 2"X4" and screwed them through the plywood at the bottom so I didn't separate the plys (by dragging) when moving the saw around.

I also added a better axle and wheels, then a new blade.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Looking good there, Abbott!

 

[mrholeshot]

I use a abrasive wheel chop saw for almost all my welding material but for something like what you have I would think a band saw would be best. I have a Milwalkee portabad but when it comes to perfect angles it wouldn't be my choice. You can prob buy a HF Horz. Band saw cheaper than having a machine shop cut it. When I'm cutting long stock I use a pair of Rigid expandable stands to hold up the stock.

 

[chad s]

Thanks for the input guys. So the chop saw is out. I think i'm going to buy the 4x6 bandsaw, a good USA made bi metal blade, and try that before outsourcing the cutting.

 

[Abbott]

I have had good luck with this blade from Enco $15.00 ($21.00 w/shipping) http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-4930 and thier shipping

shipping is pretty quick.

 

[t100]

your best bet is laser. it won't be cheap since the machine with that capacity costs half million, but the upside is it's accurate and minimal finishing required.

 

[nate379]

My Dad farted around with one of those HF saws for a while and ended up giving it away. His work bought new bandsaws and he ended up with them. They were going to the dumpster!

(yeah... LUCKY). They needed a few parts and some machine work, but he fixed them and sold one to a farmer for $1000 and kept the other.

 

[t100]

I almost forgot, I used to cut 6" solid round stock steel bars with a electric hack saw equipped with a coolant pump. slow process but it never failed.

it not a bandsaw.

 

[stock z/28]

Hello.

Im certainly no expert on this stuff, but I cut a lot of different materials with different methods and I would hate to have to cut "accurately" 3/4 stainless.

I do cut some stainless that thick and thicker with plasma but I dont think it would be close enough for what you want.

I can honestly say that I would have no easy way to it, and would hate to try.

If it has to be real close I would have a shop with CNC laser or plasma give quote.

If you do find a quick, easy, accurate, inexpensive way to that, please share.

Good luck

Jeff

 

[chad s]

I'm going to HF this afternoon, armed with a 20% off coupon, and going to try the band saw. I'll let you guys know if I have any success.

 

[Griff93]

If you want any real accuracy the pieces are going to have to be machined after cutting them to the rough size. The HF band saw will cut them with a good blade. Just make sure to use the slowest setting and lots of cutting oil/coolant with the stainless.

 

[Amitygravel]

Definitely use lots of oil when cutting. There is nothing magic about stainless. It could be done whith a hacksaw if you have the time and patience. I cut D-2 tool steel for knife blades with a hacksaw 304 is like butter compared to it. But hey , any excuse to buy a new tool!

 

[chad s]

Well, heres a bit of an update. I got the saw, and the first one had a bent feed adjustment shaft. Got a second one, and using just the blade on it, tried cutting some mild steel, and it cut straight right out of the box.

I ordered a bi-metal blade from MC master carr, and tried it on the same mild steel, and the cut time, and finish was vastly improved.

Now for the 304 Stainless. I have a cut off to test on. The 10-14 bimetal blade cuts it, and it cuts straight, with good finish quality. However, it is SLOW. I am using the slowest speed to keep heat down, and at does not create a lot of heat.

I think I may need a coarser blade. This is 3/4" bar, and I think a 6-10 bi-metal blade may be best. On blade charts ive found, the tooth count is fine for 3/4", as is the 10-14, but the 10-14 is just so slow.

Also, Ive considered moving the power switch out of the way, and putting a small water pump on the work piece/blade. If I do this, can I increase the speed, being that now a water feed will keep the stock and blade cool?

 

[arkangel06]

You need coolant for sure!

 

[Packard V8]

Without a drawing or a photo, I can't be certain I understand the cut you are making. Is it just a straight cut-off or a slot part-way through?

Anyway, don't know why everyone dissed the chop saw. I just cut stainless yesterday with my Makita chop saw and it worked fine; just as it always does and way, way quicker than a band saw on slow.

jack vines

 

[gorilla]

If you want to machine/saw SS'T quickly you need lots of horsepower and flood coolant. You have neither with your HF band saw. You may see some improvement if you increase the feed rate on the saw. SS'T seems to like a heavy feed and slow speed, this avoids work hardening. All said, if your getting good cuts live with the slow speed.

 

[arkangel06]

You need coolin', baby, I'm not foolin',

 

[chad s]

Another update....

I put on the new starrett 10-14 bi metal blade, along with the water cycling system, and using a scrap of the 304 2-1/2 x 3/4 stainless set in the vise at a 45 degree angle (which is actually a 3.5" cut). The water flow kept the metal cold, below room temperature. So there is absolutely no heat issues.

The bad news, at the middle speed on the saw, it took a little over 40 minutes to make a single cut. That's on a test run, and I have 24 pieces to cut.....

 

[arkangel06]

Another update....

I put on the new starrett 10-14 bi metal blade, along with the water cycling system, and using a scrap of the 304 2-1/2 x 3/4 stainless set in the vise at a 45 degree angle (which is actually a 3.5" cut). The water flow kept the metal cold, below room temperature. So there is absolutely no heat issues.

The bad news, at the middle speed on the saw, it took a little over 40 minutes to make a single cut. That's on a test run, and I have 24 pieces to cut.....

Well then bump the speed up a bit.

 

[Griff93]

If you put it in high with that heavy of a cut it probably won't have enough power to pull the blade. Mine will stall in high with a large piece of stock sometime even if I back down the feed rate from where I normally have it. I have smoked one motor on one of mine already. I think I've actually smoked a second motor I just haven't had a chance to trouble shoot it. It's burning up switches.

 

[W-Cummins]

In this application coolant is a TOTAL waste of time and a big mess too. IF you were cutting SS in PRODUCTION ( on a real saw not a POS) yes you would want coolant, your 24 cuts is nothing close to production. The coolant will help extend the life of your bands if you were working them hard, and probably give you a better cut on a fast high speed saw. BTW my Wellsaw 10-16 would cut that in under 2 min w/o any messy coolant.

William....

 

[t100]

add some dish soap in the water.

 

[Atlascycle]

so you have the blade in 3.5" of material?

if so you have way to fine of a blade. you should be using a 3 / 4 pitch bimetal blade.

see here : http://www.thefabricator.com/article/sawing/boosting-band-saw-blade-life

Hope this helps.

Jason

 

[chad s]

so you have the blade in 3.5" of material?

if so you have way to fine of a blade. you should be using a 3 / 4 pitch bimetal blade.

see here : http://www.thefabricator.com/article/sawing/boosting-band-saw-blade-life

Hope this helps.

Jason

The largest tooth blade I can find that fits this saw is a 6-10 blade, short of having one made. Im not sure that the saw will have the torque to pull a very coarse blade.

 

[arkangel06]

Cant you bring this stuff to your local friendly fab shop and have them do it?

 

[chad s]

Cant you bring this stuff to your local friendly fab shop and have them do it?

I could i guess. I wanted to do it all myself, without relying one someone else, but at this rate of how slow the cutting is, I may have no choice but to outsource the cutting.

 

[chad s]

Another update. I am cutting the actual stock now. Using the slowest speed, the water cooling setup, and increased feed rate has brought the cut time to about 25 minutes. The feed rate really fixed things. I had to add a weight to the front of the saw to give more pressure, but its making better, curly chips, instead of dust. Tomorrow my 6-10 blade comes in, that should make it go faster.