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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

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zmotorsports

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Mike, not sure if I missed it in the write up but if I remember correctly that lower cooler boot expands a decent amount and can rub on I think the washer tank bracket.

Not sure about the washer tank but the hot pipe itself is known to rub on either the rigid power steering hose bend OR the driver's side exhaust manifold. My son's was rubbing when he bought the truck and we adjusted to get it to avoid any clearance issues but while we had it out we took a few minutes to weld up the wear spots on the hot pipe.

Here are the rub spots that we addressed. During initial pressure testing these didn't seem to be leaking but we opted to run a few passes over them anyways.
dmax19.jpg

A couple of passes. The welds got a little garbage in them due to the nature of the pipe but it welded up good with no pin holes.
dmax20.jpg


Upon reinstalling we ensure it was not interfering with anything by giving it some rather aggressive shakes, with no interferences of any kind.

Now that being said, after discussing with my son, he mentioned he thought the boot had a leak before and he moved the clamp over it to prevent it from having any effect. He was thinking that this time he may not have gotten the hot pipe as far into the boot which is why it showed up during the pressure test. I kind of doubt we tore it removing it because the hot pipe came out so easily and didn't get hung up anywhere. Either way, it was replaced and another pressure test was conducted to ensure there were no leaks in the intercooler system before the road test.

Thanks for following along Dave. Hope you and your family had a Happy New Year.
 
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zmotorsports

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Very nice clock ! I feel the same wayIMG_9110.jpg


Nice clock. :thumbup:


Happy New Year Mike!

Like you suspect yourself, I’m too thinking that hose tore up upon removal. Good thing that your local GM dealership/parts supplier had one on the shelf.

I have actually just hung up the very same calendar in my shop & I also happen to have my eyes on a clock just as the one you treated yourself with. ;-)

With best regards,
Anders

Happy new year to you as well Anders. A good friend and mentor had a clock just like this in his shop and I always found myself admiring it when I was in his shop. If memory serves it was a limited edition run of clocks back in the early 2000's but haven't seen them available since.

I opted to treat the shop to one as I've been looking for a while now without much luck. When one became available I thought I'd snag it for the shop to go into the new year.
 
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zmotorsports

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Yesterday my son came over and we tackled some preventive maintenance items on his wife's 2018 Subaru Crosstrek. It was due or nearly due on several maintenance items so we figured we'd knock them all out so he goes into the new year with his vehicles properly maintained and ready to go.

Items we wanted to address were as follows:

* Coolant replacement
* Front diff. fluid replacement
* Rear diff. fluid replacement
* CVT fluid replacement
* Spark plugs
* Serpentine belt replacement

and a thorough inspection done by going through our checklist.

Car racked and coolant draining from the radiator.
ct1.jpg

Next was to pull the block plugs to remove the coolant from the engine itself. I couldn't get my 17mm allen socket to fit as the exhaust down pipe was too close so I had to cut one of my allen hex stock down.
ct1a.jpg

Allen hex bit installed and an extra long wrench was used but it was still too tight and required my wrench extender to get the plug to budge.
ct2.jpg

Block plug removed and coolant draining while we headed to the rear of the car.
ct3.jpg

Rear differential draining. Fluid didn't look terrible but definitely needed to be replaced.
ct4.jpg

Very little debris on the drain plug magnet, about normal.
ct5.jpg

While the front differential was draining we removed and drained the coolant surge tank.
ct6.jpg

Surge tank cleaned and ready for reinstallation.
ct7.jpg

Moving on to the spark plugs. Glad I modified my flex head long handle thin head Snap-on ratchet for this job as it definitely made access much better. Removing the coil pack fastener to gain access to the spark plug, passenger bank.
ct8.jpg

While working on the passenger's side spark plugs we pulled a vacuum on the cooling system to check for leaks.
ct9.jpg

More pictures to follow.....
 
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Continuing on with the Subaru preventive maintenance.

Tools required to replace spark plugs.
ct10.jpg

Although I've had this MAC spark plug tool for several decades, a small piece of fuel line will work just as well.
ct11.jpg

Sure makes it easy to remove as well as start the new plugs once able to turn by hand.
ct12.jpg

ct13.jpg

After snugging up with the ratchet a torque wrench was used to tighten to 13 ft/lbs.
ct14.jpg

After filling the cooling system we pulled the battery and then this bracket was removed to gain access to the driver's side cylinders for spark plug replacement.
ct15.jpg

The last item on the list was to flush the brake fluid and replace with new. Brake fluid actually looked very good and contained no measurable moisture but it was on the list of maintenance items so we replaced it.
ct16.jpg

Blue Point vacuum bleeder in use again. This has been a heavily used tool in the shop over the years.
ct17.jpg

And that pretty much completed the checklist. There were no surprises and everything went as planned. Items not replaced on the checklist looked good and the car has a clean bill of health again.
ct18.jpg


Thanks for looking.
 

WoodsTruck

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Mike,
Again, attention to maintenance and details.

I was looking for the form-a-funnel when draining the coolant out of the Subie to keep it off the exhaust. I didn't see one.
 

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Mike,
Again, attention to maintenance and details.

I was looking for the form-a-funnel when draining the coolant out of the Subie to keep it off the exhaust. I didn't see one.


Yeah, I had one nice and clean and handy in the cupboard but for some reason didn't grab it. I saw the error in my ways within seconds after removing the block plug however. :ROFLMAO: Note to self for next time.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike,

I use one of these on drain plugs if you end up wanting a different solution.


Thanks Ryan.

My cut-down bit actually worked very well. Also glad that I already had a T70 Torx bit that was needed for the front diff. drain plug.
 

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1672795149824.jpeg
This rip in the boot is what I was referring to, if I remember correctly it expands a great deal under boost and rubs on something behind the inner fender well. Give it a look see what ya see. It’s foggy 😶‍🌫️ in my brain but I thing alligator performance seemed to offer a non factory boot replacement that held the boost a lot better with less expansion
 

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Mike you did indeed do the right thing when you opted to splash some hard earned on that clock, to treat the shop with.
As earlier mentioned, I’m extremely tempted myself, I have a BNIB in sight, not even the sealed plastic wrap has been broken. After all, it’s only money…. Ha ha ha
 

jbmatth

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Mike, you mentioned the CVT on the Subie, I'd be interested to hear your take on CVT's, they got a bad wrap early on but do you feel they are better now or still an item to be mindful of on higher mileage vehicles equipped with one?

JB
 

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Mike, you mentioned the CVT on the Subie, I'd be interested to hear your take on CVT's, they got a bad wrap early on but do you feel they are better now or still an item to be mindful of on higher mileage vehicles equipped with one?

JB
@jbmatth We have a 2022 Outback with the CVT. Subaru says it has lifetime fluid. I plan to service mine when the time comes. Problem is, since Subie doesn't recommend changing, what interval should I use?
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, is that checklist something you made up?

Scott, yes, that is a checklist that I made up about 15 or so years ago and have "tweaked" it a bit over the first few years as I saw trends come through the shop. I use it on my personal vehicles and used it on paying jobs when clients would want me to do annual services on their daily drivers, which was a service I offered when I had my speed shop.

I used general repairs and service work to fill in the gaps between hi-po jobs as some of my clients insisted I work on everything of theirs. I had several clients that I worked on everything from their lawnmower/snowblowers to their snowmobiles, ATV's, motorcycles, enclosed trailers, race cars to their wife's Tahoe or 4-Runner. Then the real loyal clients I even worked on that 4-letter word, "boats". Oh how I loathed working on boats, however, they were good clients. ;)
 
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zmotorsports

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1672795149824.jpeg
This rip in the boot is what I was referring to, if I remember correctly it expands a great deal under boost and rubs on something behind the inner fender well. Give it a look see what ya see. It’s foggy 😶‍🌫️ in my brain but I thing alligator performance seemed to offer a non factory boot replacement that held the boost a lot better with less expansion

I'll look again when I'm in there next but I have not seen these boots expand all that much. I pressure check the intercooler system with my Kent Moore pressure tester and have never noticed the boots expanding even when upwards of 25 PSI, which is about where I draw the line on how much pressure to use when testing. If you look in the picture you can see that the clamp must have been directly over the tear which is why we didn't discover it on the initial test before we pulled the hot pipe from the truck. When my son reinstalled it the hot pipe wasn't as far into the boot and therefore the clamp was in a slightly different location in relation to the tear. We played with it and got it to seal up but ultimately we just called the dealer and they had one so my son didn't want to mess with it any more. My son waffled on an aftermarket boot but seeing as how the dealer had one in stock and we could button it up once and for all the same day he opted to go back to OEM and I concurred. Besides, we really can't complain about the life of the boot as it has 300k miles on it so it isn't a quality issue. Thanks for the info, I'll take another look next time I'm in there.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike you did indeed do the right thing when you opted to splash some hard earned on that clock, to treat the shop with.
As earlier mentioned, I’m extremely tempted myself, I have a BNIB in sight, not even the sealed plastic wrap has been broken. After all, it’s only money…. Ha ha ha

Agreed Anders, it's only money. I keep telling myself that but then I get buyers remorse after a non-critical purchase like that. :ROFLMAO:
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, you mentioned the CVT on the Subie, I'd be interested to hear your take on CVT's, they got a bad wrap early on but do you feel they are better now or still an item to be mindful of on higher mileage vehicles equipped with one?

JB

@jbmatth We have a 2022 Outback with the CVT. Subaru says it has lifetime fluid. I plan to service mine when the time comes. Problem is, since Subie doesn't recommend changing, what interval should I use?

Also curious on the trans fluid, the wife has a 2019 but only 40k miles on it so far.


Personally, I am not a fan of CVT's for the long haul. When my wife had her 2004 Nissan Altima as her daily driver I was overall very pleased and impressed with it as the total cost of ownership for that car was extremely low during the 10 years we owned it. Even well after turning over 200k miles I was impressed and would have purchased another when we upgraded had they had a standard auto transmission like her 2004 did. Unfortunately, the next generation of Altima's had the CVT transmission so that took them off of my list of potential cars for the wife when we were looking in early 2016. I had worked on a few Rogues and even a few 2007-2009 Altima's and was not impressed with the CVT in these vehicles. Another friend had one in his wife's Audi and had multiple issues before they sold it/traded in. They work great on a snowmobile or ATV but I just don't think 200k+ miles on one in a car will be the same as a standard 4-speed or 6-speed auto transmission. I had seen several people scrap their Rogues and a co-worker scrapped his wife's Altima because they developed CVT issues and parts were unavailable, only could be purchased as a complete assembly. A neighbor bought a used CVT from a scrapyard and we replaced it for him but he only got about another 14 or so months before that one developed issues and he ended up selling as a mechanics special.

I think they got a lot of publicity and positive reviews when the cars were new and even several automotive authorities/publications really liked them when they did their 15k mile review or 1-year review but it's the 200+ mile reviews or 10+ year reviews I was more interested in and what I was finding is that they were less than as favorable as the 1-year/15k reviews. I think the hype about them being lighter and more economic overshadowed the questions about longevity.

I believe several of the manufacturers have now gone back to 6, 8 or even 10-speed auto's in favor of the CVT's so that may say something as well but initially they were cheaper to construct so they thought CVT's were a win/win.

Now all that being said, the Subaru CVT seems to be more resilient and I have seen/heard less failures in the Subie's compared to other manufacturers, but I'm still not much of a fan and would much rather have a traditional slush box. Specific to Subaru USA, they state "lifetime fluid" and it is suggested that you do not service it, no other explanation is really given. However, Subaru Canada as well as the mother ship, Subaru Japan, both state CVT service @ 36k miles so to me that tells a different story. That's just my opinion so take that for what it's worth.

As for the "lifetime fluid" statements that many manufacturers use these days, I am quite appalled by the thought that fluids last forever and they are continuing that communication to the public. I have been in the preventive maintenance game for more than 35 years and I have never seen fluids that don't have their additive packages depleted over time and that don't take on contaminants. I feel a fluid has several jobs in whatever system it is designed for. Some of those systems such as a hydraulic system require the fluids to actually do the work, an auto transmission is one of these systems. Other systems require fluids to perform the lubrication function as well to absorb, carry and remove heat all while carrying wear particles back to a filter media. As a by-product of any mechanical system there is normal wear and with that wear comes small particles in which the fluid must also carry to some sort of filtration system. However, even the best filters cannot and do not capture all microscopic particles, therefore fluids themselves need to be replaced allowing clean, fresh fluid with renewed additive packages to be introduced into the component if the component is to continue performing as designed.

Now all that being said, I have an opinion on why manufactures claim to have lifetime fluids in their products. I feel the term "lifetime" that these manufactures talk about is the warranty period of the vehicle and it is by design. I feel the manufacturers design into their products an expiration date if you will and that ends at the warranty period. I also think they have "trained" the general public so well to the point that many feel they "need" a warranty in order to have a car of any value and when the warranty period is up, many start thinking they need a new car. I actually have family members that fall well into this category and I have been unsuccessful to change their minds and I'm certain I never will. I have tried to explain that with today's technology, cars that have normal routine maintenance performed and if they are well cared for can go upwards of 200k-300k miles, with the emphasis on IF they are properly maintained. I would assume that the manufacturers plan their profit margin by taking that warranty into account because after that, they are no longer "on the hook" if you will for that vehicles ongoing maintenance, even though it will go much, much longer if properly maintained. I have tried to explain that if they have the vehicle serviced properly and at the recommended intervals there is a very low chance that it will develop any major issues and the manufacturers know this. Granted there are some exceptions but as a general rule I find this to be true. Now once a vehicle's warranty period is over doesn't mean the vehicle is headed to the scrap yard but in some people's minds it may as well be because it has no value to them and I feel there are many, many people under this same mindset.

Anyways, sorry for the long diatribe but overall I am not a fan of CVT's in automobiles nor "lifetime fluids", and still not completely sold on GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) either. But that's another just as long of diatribe. ;)
 
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LXCam

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Thanks for that summary Mike. I was looking forwards to it as well since I bought the wife a new Forster a couple months ago. I'm with you on this lifetime BS, I'm not falling for it. I'll be doing a full service on her car at 36K for piece of mind and we'll see how everything looks. And considering its 2 months old and going in today for its first oil change (6K), it obviously won't be long before that happens ;).
 
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zmotorsports

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Thanks for that summary Mike. I was looking forwards to it as well since I bought the wife a new Forster a couple months ago. I'm with you on this lifetime BS, I'm not falling for it. I'll be doing a full service on her car at 36K for piece of mind and we'll see how everything looks. And considering its 2 months old and going in today for its first oil change (6K), it obviously won't be long before that happens ;).

It does take a few extra steps to properly change the CVT fluid compared to the fluid changes of yesterday but nothing too difficult. Pretty much like most other transmissions that don't have dipsticks these days. Getting the fluid to the proper temperature and ensuring all the fluid passages have been filled is the most important part but nothing too extreme at all.
 

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Interestingly enough, I looked up the Subaru Maintenance schedule and it says to "inspect" the CVT at every 36,000 miles but caveats that with a note that states, "When vehicle is frequently operated under severe driving conditions, CVT fluid replacement should be performed every 24,855 miles (40,000 km). East Coast driving conditions are what I have always considered to be close to severe driving conditions, so expect I'll be doing a service every 24,000 miles or so......
 
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zmotorsports

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Interestingly enough, I looked up the Subaru Maintenance schedule and it says to "inspect" the CVT at every 36,000 miles but caveats that with a note that states, "When vehicle is frequently operated under severe driving conditions, CVT fluid replacement should be performed every 24,855 miles (40,000 km). East Coast driving conditions are what I have always considered to be close to severe driving conditions, so expect I'll be doing a service every 24,000 miles or so......

My son found and downloaded a Subaru Japan routine maintenance form and it has an "R" next to the CVT fluid @ 36k miles for Replace. I haven't paid much attention to the Subaru USA version because in my opinion, they lost all credibility when they stated lifetime fluid for the CVT.

I get a kick out of the "normal" vs. "severe" driving conditions in most manufacturers owner's manuals. In my Jeep manual, Chrysler states Schedule A as their normal, meaning no triple digits, no sub-freezing temps, no stop and go traffic and no towing. If any of those conditions exist then it is considered "severe" conditions and Schedule B maintenance should be followed. Well hell, by that description "severe" is pretty much normal driving conditions about anywhere I drive even without towing anything. :headscrat
 

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Oh you’re gonna love this story. The wifes Forester is a limited with all the options - just pointing this out for conversation sake. So all though I had only scheduled her for a oil change she tells me last night that the USB ports in the dash aren't working and the big one, no heat to the footwell area. I'm thinking maybe a fuse for the USB's and most likely driver error on the controls for the climate control - NOPE.

They need to order in a new USB module (whatever, **** happens). But the service writer tells her Subi screwed the pooch on the climate control system and they'll be super minimal heat for the footwell area as that airflow path is shared with the defrost system with 90% of the airflow keeping the windshield toasty. However the Outback doesn't suffer from this ailment. Go figure :eek2:

The wife is none to happy right now.

Going into this new ride thing for her she gave me two options. One the Sub in this exact color with this exact interior (which btw I had to buy in Cali as there were none in AZ). Or two a BMW X6 (thank gawd we never got to the package demands on that one). :yikes:


For my wallet this was an easy decision but I've got a feeling I'm going to regret it.
 

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@LXCam We looked at the Outback because her sister has the Forester and though it was too tall. In addtion, she didn't want the same car. We were set to order the Limited XT but then we drove a Touring XT with the NAPA Brown leather interior....guess which one we bought.... :ROFLMAO:. Love the 2.4 motor (WRX motor).....
 

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@LXCam We looked at the Outback because her sister has the Forester and though it was too tall. In addtion, she didn't want the same car. We were set to order the Limited XT but then we drove a Touring XT with the NAPA Brown leather interior....guess which one we bought.... :ROFLMAO:. Love the 2.4 motor (WRX motor).....
I still don't understand this but my 5'4" amazon goddess wife wanted the Forster because it was taller then the Outback.......go figure. I didn't even know until today the Outback could be bought with some extra humph or I would have pushed back.

When the wife gave the ultimatum of the Forester in Graphite with the two tone 100% all natural real simulated corinthian leather in saddle and black OR the bmw'r I vacillated for ooohhhhhhhhhhh about .001 secounds (Ya I almost cut a perfect light).

That next day I was on the horn with every dealership in Arizona and all of them said 12-16 weeks out. That night the wife called and said there's one at the dealership by our previous home in Riverside. I got in my truck and hauled *** back out there.

That thing was bought and paid for within an hour of opening. :rocker:
 

gearhead1960

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I still don't understand this but my 5'4" amazon goddess wife wanted the Forster because it was taller then the Outback.......go figure. I didn't even know until today the Outback could be bought with some extra humph or I would have pushed back.

When the wife gave the ultimatum of the Forester in Graphite with the two tone 100% all natural real simulated corinthian leather in saddle and black OR the bmw'r I vacillated for ooohhhhhhhhhhh about .001 secounds (Ya I almost cut a perfect light).

That next day I was on the horn with every dealership in Arizona and all of them said 12-16 weeks out. That night the wife called and said there's one at the dealership by our previous home in Riverside. I got in my truck and hauled *** back out there.

That thing was bought and paid for within an hour of opening. :rocker:
Haha. My Amazonian is only 5’ but the 2 memory power seat will raise you on the throne!

Mike, sorry for the thread hijack….🤷‍♂️
 

Motown

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I did a 2018 Cross Trek, that I bought at IAA insurance auction for my son. I did the CVT on it, had 42,00o. From what I had read 30k intervals seemed to be what is most common change intervals. I used the Castrol CVT fluid. Mine took around 6qts. Not a fun process on Cross Treks', the fill hole is right nest to an exhaust pipe. The fluid level has to be ck'd when the fluid is around 105 degrees. To play it safe, I ck'd it twice to make sure it was properly full.
 

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Scuderia-F1

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Agreed Anders, it's only money. I keep telling myself that but then I get buyers remorse after a non-critical purchase like that. :ROFLMAO:
Fully understand that Mike, I’m just the same. But then you see that purdy purchase and it’s mostly all good again. 🤣

We are passionate about what we do and we take great pride in what we do and our shops. So nothing wrong with some unnecessary items like that. After all we are also taking a great chunk of pride in the brands we are loyal to.

👍🏼😃
 

jbmatth

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Great to hear your thoughts on the CVT pretty well line up with what I've heard from people that have owned them. I even drove a Nissan SUV with one last year with the zero gravity seats and fell in love with the ride comfort, 30ish MPG, then realized the trans was a CVT with simulated shifts. WTH

I also agree on lifetime fluids, they are good to the normal warranty period, will likely last to the extended warranty, but are not capable of lasting the lifetime of what the vehicle could/should last. I never opt for an extended warranty when my wife buys a new vehicle and my reason is simple, failure probability and cost. The manufacturer knows the failure probability of their products and what it would cost them to replace anytime during the extended warranty, they then price them appropriately to make a profit, over time they know they will make money vs loose money or they will charge more. Even if something happens in that timeframe I'll likely be able to fix it for less than the cost of the warranty so no sale to me.

JB
 
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zmotorsports

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I did a 2018 Cross Trek, that I bought at IAA insurance auction for my son. I did the CVT on it, had 42,00o. From what I had read 30k intervals seemed to be what is most common change intervals. I used the Castrol CVT fluid. Mine took around 6qts. Not a fun process on Cross Treks', the fill hole is right nest to an exhaust pipe. The fluid level has to be ck'd when the fluid is around 105 degrees. To play it safe, I ck'd it twice to make sure it was properly full.

Yep, that looks identical to my DIL's Crosstrek. My son actually bought the factory Subaru CVT fluid and it took right @ 6 qts, just a splash over actually, at 105 degree transmission temperature. We left the filling of the CVT as the last step of the preventive maintenance process and had added about 4.5 quarts with everything cold which then started running out quite heavily until the plug was installed. Then brought it up to temperature going through the modes of the transmission to ensure all fluid passages were filled and when it hit about 97-degrees we pulled the fill plug and added another 1.5 qts until it just started coming out. By that time the transmission temperature was around 105 and the range for testing is 93-113 degrees. The nice thing is that once the plug was torqued to spec. a quick spray with some brake wash followed by compressed air cleaned the area completely and left no trace of fluid spillage. The downside is that you are right, it is right next to the exhaust and was getting a bit warm while checking the fluid level.
 
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zmotorsports

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Fully understand that Mike, I’m just the same. But then you see that purdy purchase and it’s mostly all good again. 🤣

We are passionate about what we do and we take great pride in what we do and our shops. So nothing wrong with some unnecessary items like that. After all we are also taking a great chunk of pride in the brands we are loyal to.

👍🏼😃

I couldn't have said it better Anders. We are proud of what we do and loyal to those brands that help us achieve our goals.
 
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zmotorsports

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Last night after arriving home from work I thought I'd take a few minutes and connect the Noco battery maintainer on the Camaro. I had let my last one go with the Harley back in August and hadn't purchased another one for the Camaro until right before Christmas. I had the wife order one and it arrived last week but I didn't have time to mess with it until last night when I made time.

I pulled the cover back, popped the hood and connected it to the battery connection points while monitoring it with my DVOM to ensure everything was working properly.
camaro1.jpg

After watching it for a while I closed the hood to the first detent and reinstalled the cover and put her back to sleep until we get some nice weather. I also still need to do a full paint correction sometime before spring.
camaro2.jpg


I then continued on with my next project that I pulled in the shop the night before. My 2006 2500HD Duramax, although my wife informed me the truck and Camaro are hers now. Not sure how I lost two vehicles in a matter of months. :headscrat The wife said I never lost the Camaro because it was hers from day one. :ROFLMAO:


Truck racked with the hood in the service position. I also need to replace batteries so they were removed from the engine bay.
lbz1.jpg

Here are the parts I'll be needing for the job at hand.
lbz2.jpg

Front tires removed, passenger's side inner wheel well removed and coolant draining by pulling the lower radiator hose as this vintage of GMT-800 chassis does not have a radiator petcock.
lbz3.jpg

After draining the coolant the night before and allowing it to fully drain I replaced the inner O-ring and put the lower hose back onto the radiator spigot. I have NOT had good results reinstalling the lower hose with a used O-ring in the past and seem to have weeps so now anytime I pull a lower hose on a Duramax I replace the O-ring. Sadly, you cannot buy these O-rings from the dealership or anywhere for that matter by application so I had to spec out the O-ring and order them by size years ago. I ordered enough to hopefully last me a lifetime of pulling lower hoses. A little Sil-Glyde was applied to the O-ring before inserting into the groove and then another light smear after it was in the groove. I then run a light coating around the tapered spigot on the radiator to aid in installation without damaging the O-ring.
lbz4.jpg

Lower radiator hose slipped right on and then the lock ring installed.
lbz5.jpg

Which this application of Sil-Glyde brought me to the last of the tube. I've had this tube for many years and it looks like it's time has come to land in the trash can.
lbz6.jpg

Time to break out the next tube in line of succession.
lbz7.jpg

And a new tube on deck. :ROFLMAO:
lbz8.jpg


Thanks for looking.
 
OP
Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,477
Location
Northern Utah
Continuing on with last night's work under the hood of the Duramax I thought I'd show a quick little tip on how to remove those barb style clips and connectors when attached to brackets. Many people just put a screwdriver under the tab between the bracket and pry but it ends up destroying the barb on the clips by folding them over backwards then they're useless to ever hold again.

I have found that if you take a small 1/4" drive socket about the size of the hole in the bracket and merely push it on from the backside it collapses the barbs in on themselves and the barbs easily slip right through the bracket undamaged and ready to be used again.

Here I added a long 1/4" drive ratchet to the 1/4" socket to reach down into the bracket that held the turbo position sensor plug/connector and pushed in onto the barb from the backside.
lbz9.jpg

Once it was pushed on a little pull on the connector and the barb came right through. Then moved on to the next barb as this connector had two barbs holding it to the steel bracket.
lbz10.jpg

And just like that the barbs are as good as new and can be reused without fear of them not holding. When it goes back together it looks OE and no one is the wiser that the connector had every been removed from the bracket because the barbs are still in pristine condition.
lbz11.jpg

Overview of the mess in the shop last night.
lbz12.jpg

Making progress and was able to soak the fasteners on the up-pipes with Kroil to let them soak overnight. Next will be to cut the turbo heat shield to remove and execute the plan to reconnect afterwards. Many people on the Duramax forum merely leave these heat shields off when going back together but I am NOT a fan of leaving heat shields off. I feel they were put there for a reason and they should be retained, but I think I'm alone in my thinking based on all of the geniuses on the internet.
lbz13.jpg

What the shop looked like as I was walking out and ready to turn the lights off for the night.
lbz14.jpg


Thanks for looking.
 
OP
Z

zmotorsports

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,477
Location
Northern Utah
Mike, seeing your drawer in the last pic makes me feel better about "that" drawer in my box :ROFLMAO: , it looks exactly the same!

Agreed Marc. There are just some drawers that are not easy to organize nor plausible and the sealant drawer is one of those. Luckily I don't have too awful many of those although some are getting so freakin' full it is hard to keep things as organized as they once were. :unsure:
 
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