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Advice on fitting drawers/shelves into metal table frame

crazybrit

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May 29, 2013
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341
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Portland, OR
A while ago I welded up this table. It's 8' x 3'. To hold a CNC Mill (400 pounds) and CNC Lathe (300 pounds).
[4"x2" legs, 2"x2" cross supports, 2" angle on the bottom]

Top will be 1-1/2" thick oak. I already have the boards. Will be tongue and grooved.

My plan was for the interior was:

Front side 24" deep: left metal leg | 3 drawers vertically | 3 shelves vertically | center metal leg | 3 shelves vertically | 3 drawers vertically | right metal leg

Back side: 12" deep: left metal leg | 3 shelves vertically | center metal leg | 3 shelves vertically | right metal leg

"wall" between front and back.

I was planning on making everything out of plywood.

I unsure on the best way to construct this and to secure it to the frame.

Hoping to be educated.
 

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niget2002

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I did this on mine. I did a plywood carcass and mounted the drawers to it.

I used 1/4-20 rivnuts installed in the metal frame and used bolts and washers to bolt the carcass to the frame.

I slid the carcass into the frame, used a pilot drill to predrill all the holes, then removed the carcass to install all the rivnuts.

Do this after installing all the drawer slides so you don't accidentally put a mounting hole where a drawer slide goes.

My project was smaller than yours, but the method should still work.

0305211527.jpg
 

jake28

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SF, CA
+1 to building a box and installing the drawers as needed. I
Built something similar for my lathe table and welded on 3/4” x 1.8” angle iron to support the box. The boxes aren’t attached to the frame; the 500 lbs of tooling vices keep them in place just fine.
 

ez-duzit

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Marina del Rey
Weld some lengths of angle to the frame to support shelves and drawers. Or screw drawer slides the frames and build the drawers to fit.
 
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crazybrit

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Portland, OR
Do this after installing all the drawer slides so you don't accidentally put a mounting hole where a drawer slide goes.

So you're familiar with my previous projects then :)

----

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.

Thinking more it was a mistake for me to use angle on the bottom. It was intentional at the time (I was thinking the plywood floor could sit down "inside it" - the bottom of the angle is at the same level as the bottom center square tube cross support - and I had some scrap angle lying around) but my concern now is that I'm going to have a 4ft wife span of plywood without any center support.

I always planned to add two more pieces of square tube (blue lines in this picture) on the top.. I'd like to do same for the bottom but flat bar going front-to-back is going to offer minimal additional support. I suppose I can grind off the angle and replace with square tube and then use square tube for the bottom center support. Maybe there is an alternative way?
 

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niget2002

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3/4" Plywood won't have any issue spanning 4' front to back. If you use 3/4" center panels as your dividers and use screws through the bottom piece and up through the side panels, it will all hold together quite well. A 3/4" plywood back panel will also help push the load points into the corners where the angle iron is.
 
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crazybrit

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Portland, OR
3/4" Plywood won't have any issue spanning 4' front to back. If you use 3/4" center panels as your dividers and use screws through the bottom piece and up through the side panels, it will all hold together quite well. A 3/4" plywood back panel will also help push the load points into the corners where the angle iron is.

Makes sense. However there isn't going to be a back panel. It's going to be 24" in from front. On rear side is 12" deep shelves.
 
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