Craftsman Drill Press Information Belts, Bearings, Chucks, Keys, etc…1946-1984

[Smokeshow69]

@Smokeshow69 badass DP smokes. I always felt the power bronze color aged the best of all the Craftsman colors, and the P-B 100 is my fav of them all. I like your patina a whole lot.

We are twinning it. I have that same grinder(slightly newer) on a pedestal stand. Now I just need to find a table lift . I used to hate the color but now I really like it. That power bronze color you recommend was super close. I painted that stand the po made and it is so close unless I point it out most folks would notice.

Smokes, outstanding job.

Thank you! And many thanks for your videos. The bearing replacement section was super helpful. I couldn’t believe how easy it was once I just did it. And this was the first press tear down where I soaked everything in simple green. It was amazing and super helpful just to rinse it off and coat everything in wd40/wax!

 

[FrankLee]

I didn’t repaint it because the factory paint was too nice. Not perfect, but showing its true age.

I would have done the same.

This one is an interesting mix of multiple eras. Early heritage with the gray accessories, power bronze paint and then the MSA belts are crown top logo.

It is interesting! Your 8 56 motor was one of the last of the heritage Craftsman gray models. Below is the same model 115.19780 motor, a 9 56, in power bronze.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I would have done the same.



It is interesting! Your 8 56 motor was one of the last of the heritage Craftsman gray models. Below is the same model 115.19780 motor, a 9 56, in power bronze.

Interesting that the PB paint is dated to 9 of 56. I wonder if we can use this to tentatively date the change over in color?

 

[jives]

Advice and opinions on my 113.*** gen 4 drill press. Some previous owner turned the 8 speed/8step pulley system into a 4 step / 4 speed pulley system, and included what appears to be a homemade speed reducing center pulley. The spindle pulley is some sort of cast zinc or whatever, and is shredded. The bore hole walls are ripped up, and a prior repair with JB Weld was only marginally successful until the rest of the bore imploded. I cannot weld the cast metal, nor want to invest in the tools to do so. I've tried to find a direct replacement pulley and cannot. I may be looking in all the wrong places? Part of the problem is a 1" bore diameter, which seems out of place for this machine?

I could go back to the 8 step pulley for front and rear, but a set is more than I want to pay. Anyway, any thoughts on a solution?

 

[satchm0h]

Hey folks, n00b here. I was recently gifted a 113.24611 (Gen 3.5 per @11b30b4 's spreadsheet). I brought it home and plugged it in. The Motor/Pullys/Spindle are all turning smooth. However, the feed is super stiff and only has about 1" travel down from the top. It does not spring back either. It feels super stiff. I don't want to force it.

I watched the most recent of @1130b4's awesome video series on these 15 1/2" presses and see him grab the hub and pull out to disengage the pinion from the quill. I've tried doing this with no success. I know the spring in these is difficult to replace and I don't want to damage it by forcing anything.

Note that I do not need to restore this machine to it's former glory, but rather need to get it into solid mechanical shape for moderate amateur use (mostly in wood).

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
~ted

 

[FrankLee]

Advice and opinions on my 113.*** gen 4 drill press. Some previous owner turned the 8 speed/8step pulley system into a 4 step / 4 speed pulley system, and included what appears to be a homemade speed reducing center pulley. The spindle pulley is some sort of cast zinc or whatever, and is shredded. The bore hole walls are ripped up, and a prior repair with JB Weld was only marginally successful until the rest of the bore imploded. I cannot weld the cast metal, nor want to invest in the tools to do so. I've tried to find a direct replacement pulley and cannot. I may be looking in all the wrong places? Part of the problem is a 1" bore diameter, which seems out of place for this machine?

I could go back to the 8 step pulley for front and rear, but a set is more than I want to pay. Anyway, any thoughts on a solution?

IMO, repurpose the base, column and table into a grinder stand and part out the rest.


I had one of those WTF machines quite a while back.

 

[FrankLee]

Hey folks, n00b here. I was recently gifted a 113.24611 (Gen 3.5 per @11b30b4 's spreadsheet). I brought it home and plugged it in. The Motor/Pullys/Spindle are all turning smooth. However, the feed is super stiff and only has about 1" travel down from the top. It does not spring back either. It feels super stiff. I don't want to force it.

It sounds like your quill lock is not releasing the quill. Remove the quill lock handle and both cylinders. Clean and lube the cylinders and their bores. Spray lube the quill and spindle a bit and test feed.

I watched the most recent of @1130b4's awesome video series on these 15 1/2" presses and see him grab the hub and pull out to disengage the pinion from the quill. I've tried doing this with no success.

Was that because the quill was stuck?

I know the spring in these is difficult to replace and I don't want to damage it by forcing anything.

Pulling the hub out about an inch should be enough to remove the quill assembly. It won't damage the spring.
You can then reach up through the quill bore with needle nose pliers to disengage the spring and remove the hub/pinion/spring assembly.

Note that I do not need to restore this machine to it's former glory, but rather need to get it into solid mechanical shape for moderate amateur use (mostly in wood).

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance!
~ted

 

[11b30b4]

Hello everyone.
Jives, FrankLee is correct, it will be hard to find the needed pulleys to get your machine back to original working order. Its far more likely that you can find another Gen 4 machine for sale and get it up and running. I see Gen 2, 3, and 4 machines down here in the South all the time year round. Its harder for me to find 100 and 150 machines. Anyway, that's my recommendation, if you really want to look hard for the parts, try ebay.

Satchm0h,
First, pulling out the hub on all Emerson models will disengage the pinion with the rack on the quill. Pulling out on the hub then turning the hub, then returning the hub is how you increase and/or decrease feed retention spring tension.
This video explains the process:

Based on your post, I assume you have a "commercial" model Gen 3.5? The quill not traveling can be a few things.
1. Quill lock is not disengaging- loosen and/or remove all the quill lock screw, sleeve, and lock nut.
2. The quill take up is too tight- commercial models have a split head that can be snugged to the quill. See owners manual for how to adjust.
3. Bad or broken spring- this is the worst of all you possible causes because they do not make the spring anymore and I have never seen one of the commercial model springs sell on ebay. Another problem you may have with the spring is that it can get hung up on the three screws that secure the hub to the pinion. Those screws are long enough to protrude inside the pinion and could snag the spring.
4. Feed take up is incorrectly set. There is a eccentric bearing on the side of the head between the head and the hub, pinion, spring assembly. The eccentric bearing is adjustable and may be too tight to allow the feed to move freely.

Identifying the real issue can be difficult and I often find that a simple thorough cleaning makes everything work so much better.
BTW here is Gen 3 commercial owners manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/4890.pdf
And here is a Gen 3.5/ 4 (depending on year of manufacture) owners manual http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/3626.pdf
Sorry I have never been able to locate Gen 4.5 owners manual for 113.2452xx.

And for anyone not familiar, I am currently working on a series of videos detailing the rebuilding of a Craftsman Emerson Commercial Gen 4.5 drill press. These videos should cover all 4 generations of Craftsman commercial Emerson drill presses Gens 3, 3.5, 4, & 4.5.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLfmzf8SKnxXly00wPyu8yiAYa4k5ikRev

 

[satchm0h]

Thanks @FrankLee and @11b30b4 . I appreciate the pointers. I am on travel for work, but will try out some of your suggestions this weekend. Note, I did remove the quill lock and it had no effect on the issue. I also tried removing the set screws that modify the gap on the head to see if it was binding there. Looking at the manual, I will try re-inserting the middle screw and tightening it down to spread the gap.

Below is an image of the hub when I try to pull it out to disengage the pinion from the quill. You can see I get a small amount of travel. I will try to get a lever of some sort in there and release the quill. It looks to me like the eccentric bushing is actually pulling out. Is it supposed to do that?


And...this image shows where the feed is currently bottoming out.

 

[11b30b4]

Satchm0h, the eccentric bearing should not come out with the pinion when you pull out the hub. Make sure the set screw #53 on the parts diagram is locked down. That is what holds the eccentric bearing inside the head (as I was recently reminded ).

 

[11b30b4]

Also keep in mind when you pull out on the hub, only pull it out about 1 to 1.5 inches. If you try to pull it out too far you will stretch the spring or break it.

 

[TWManson]

It looks like the one I just picked up is the late model from 65-66 era. It has a fixed table, no tension adjust on the left and it has the bolt on the bottom of the motor mount with the little clip. I did pick up a foot switch from Harbor Freight but am not too happy with it.

 

[Zeus36]

It looks like the one I just picked up is the late model from 65-66 era. It has a fixed table, no tension adjust on the left and it has the bolt on the bottom of the motor mount with the little clip. I did pick up a foot switch from Harbor Freight but am not too happy with it.

There are two style foot switches from HF: 1. Click on, click off. Or 2. Step on to power, step off to kill power. The are cheap and plastic, but I found if you add a plywood base, they are tolerable. I use the click on/click off for a Wet/Dry vac and the momentary for a bench mounted portable bandsaw. My drill press has a heavy duty industrial metal and rubber momentary foot switch made in the US.

What did you not like about the switch?

 

[TWManson]

The foot switch is cumbersome to use because I have to lift my foot off the ground to step on it. I have used one before where the toe of the shoe went into the switch body so your weight was on your heel when you left off. I bought the momentary style. I thought about maybe 'improving' this switch by adding a lever that would lower the pivot point. I like to improvise.

I saw the message about 'irked profile location' and it reminded me that I had not added location when setting up my account so I just updated it. I wish these forums would 'urge' you to add that as you sign up. Tom

 

[11b30b4]

TWManson, congrats on the 150 series drill press and thank you for adding your location.
Jeff

 

[TWManson]

Jeff, Thank you for the warm welcome and the location reminder. I will send pics of the new jewel when I get back out to the garage. Tom

 

[TWManson]

I like that Furnas foot switch that was shown in a post a while back.

 

[TWManson]

I just went out to take some pics and while there I pulled out on the quill feed to see what that felt like and the whole quill dropped clean out of the head assembly. Yikes, I did not expect that!

So here's the pics, I think it has been sitting outside based on how pitted the base is, it is worse the table. The motor does not look like it has seen such abuse.

 

[Zeus36]

 

[Zeus36]

I just went out to take some pics and while there I pulled out on the quill feed to see what that felt like and the whole quill dropped clean out of the head assembly. Yikes, I did not expect that!

So here's the pics, I think it has been sitting outside based on how pitted the base is, it is worse the table. The motor does not look like it has seen such abuse.

Best of all... No Arc of Shame on the table!

 

[TWManson]

Yeah, I was kinda surprised too since it has been around for almost 60 years! There was a sacrificial plywood top on the table when I got it. That's a cute little button foot switch, where did you get that?

 

[Zeus36]

Yeah, I was kinda surprised too since it has been around for almost 60 years! There was a sacrificial plywood top on the table when I got it. That's a cute little button foot switch, where did you get that?

Saved two of those from a building that was being razed.

 

[11b30b4]

I think that drill press will clean up nicely.

 

[TWManson]

I think so too!

I do not feel any spring tension at all when I pull the downfeed assy out from the quill knowing now that I need to hold the quill when doing that.

 

[Hoorn]

Works awesome. I can put my entire foot on it and leave it there. Just pivot back and forth for off and on.

 

[TWManson]

Yeah, I noticed the heel support at the back end, very cool!

 

[TWManson]

I just pulled the quill feed out and the spring is intact but mangled, see pic. I see a roll pin sticking up inside the opposite side of the headd assembly. I guess this spring magically finds it's way over that pin when you reinstall it?

 

[TWManson]

I was just scoping things out and it looks like there's enough access inside the head to slip the end of that spring over the pin once I straighten the end of it. It always a mystery how things are wonked up when you pick up something old. I have a collection of John Deere garden tractors from the same vintage so I am used to the mysteries. Tom

 

[FrankLee]

You should be able to bend your loop somewhat back into position.

When installing the assembly, hold the hub out about a half inch. Grab the loop from underneath with needle nose pliers. Stretch the spring and hook the loop over the roll pin. (Read pictures right to left.)

 

[11b30b4]

These two videos should provide some assistance.

 

[TWManson]

Thanks for the tips, I will go out and play in a bit. Those are nice pic's, were they done with one of those 'endoscope' things?

 

[FrankLee]

Thanks for the tips, I will go out and play in a bit. Those are nice pic's, were they done with one of those 'endoscope' things?

Mine? No. I do have an endoscope camera but don't use it much. Those were taken with a small point-and-shoot Canon Elph 360 though the bottom opening.

 

[TWManson]

Yes Frank yours, those are good pics. I got the end of my spring straightened OK although it protrudes a bit more than what it should. But it works OK. Using crocus cloth and oil I cleaned the quill and the feed shaft. As I was messing with the tension I had the quill fall out again. I do not have a Stop Nut on the depth indicator, but I will take care of that shortly. I looked through my endless stash of nuts and did not find one that fits yet but I will. The more I mess with the the more I like it.

 

[FrankLee]

Your feed stop rod has 5/8"-12 ACME style threads. There should be a rapid-adjust feed stop collar assembly. They will sometimes pop up on ebay separate from the entire assembly, but they are pricey.
You can use an acme hex nut but they are either difficult to find or too expensive.
Example: https://www.ebay.com/p/1354585329


Earlier Craftsman feed stop rods have 5/8-18 threads with two knurled nuts. They will fit on later 150's.


Are you missing the quill lock?

 

[TWManson]

Thanks Frank, that ACME thread explains why I could not find a nut in my nut collection! My quill lock works but I did not think to use it because I did not expect the quill to fall again. I just counted the threads, yeah, 12 /in.

 

[TWManson]

That 5/8-12 acme thread appears to be as rare as hens teeth! For the time being I thing I will just make a stop collar with a thumb screw to secure it, better than nothing. Do the original stops ever come up?

 

[FrankLee]

Not too often.

The stop collar with thumb screw will work. A brass thumb screw would be better than steel and should be tightened on the acme threads not the flats. A steel screw will mar the scale.

 

[TWManson]

Frank, I looked at the ebay listing for that Tablesaw Arbor Nut. Interesting! It did not occur to me at the time, but yeah, most tablesaws use a 5/8" arbor, but I thought there were a reverse thread? I guess it depends on which way the motor/drive attaches to the blade. Funny that they are the same pitch!

 

[TWManson]

Good points on the thumb screw concept. I thought about a pointed thumb screw that would go between the threads, that would give a 0.083 increment in the stop position, probably good enough for that function You're right, a larger brass would be better if it spanned multiple threads.

 

[JoCoSawdust]

Looks great Smokes!