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Workshop Pencils and Markers - share your thoughts!

Dave455

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I’ve always had fairly decent drawing pencils and pens, but historically my workshop got a bit neglected, and used up all the crappy stuff and pencil stubs! Given the time I spend there, this was stupid, so a few years back I started using decent stuff in the shop. Made a big difference. This is what I’ve found works for me.

Regular graphite pencils. Work well for marking softwood, not great on anything else. Quality makes a huge difference and a couple of good quality drawing pencils cost little. The traditional carpenters pencil has it’s benefits, but there are more crappy ones than good ones. Practicality rating 6/10.BF96C20F-B92B-4C1A-9699-13218C558D59.jpeg

Stabilo “All” Pencil. If you’ve never used these they are awesome! They look and feel like a regular graphite pencil, but write with a darker line, and on any surface - wood, metal, plastic, seemingly the lot. Superb things but not many folks know about them. 9/10.
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Chinagraph / Grease Pencil. Seemingly an obvious choice, these often disappoint. Generally too soft for wood, but not bold enough on metal. Good for marking on plastic, and score a point for not drying out! 4/10.
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Spirit Markers. Excellent tools. I use the fine “OHP” pens for marking out most metalwork jobs. The bigger markers get used for writing on plastic, but also on metal before using a scriber - I can actually see the scribed line that way. 8/10.
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Pica Pencils and Pens. I just love everything this company makes. They’re one of the few manufacturers who really think about their designs. The pencils are superb. Lead is just perfect - good and bold but can be sharpened to a point. You can mark into deep holes, and the holder with clip protects the point perfectly. There’s a huge selection of refills too - different hardness and colours, and special refills for different trades!

The marker pens are equally well thought through. Again, you can mark through holes, and the fibre tip can be extended as it wears. Don’t seem to dry out either. My most used markers now. 10/10.
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Pica “Visor” Markers. Basically a propelling paint crayon, these are again superbly thought out. Very bold colours, and write on seemingly anything. My first choice for tasks needing bigger marks, but also good for general labelling and writing on metal / plastic etc! Another 10/10.
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But - I haven’t tried everything. Feel free to share what you have found works for you. Has anybody found a halfway decent paint pen? I also note that the Japanese company Shinwa offer special pencils for wood marking. I wonder if these are better than conventional ones?
 
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rmack898

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I’m a metal guy and seldom work with wood. My go to markers are the Milwaukee Inkzall. They seem to hold up a little better than a Sharpie.
I’ve had good luck with Everon and sharpie paint pens, I get them in silver for steel and black for aluminum and stainless.
The sharpie magnums are also handy to have around.

I also keep a few Zebra.07 mechanical pencils around for keeping notes and drawing quick sketches.
 

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LWB

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I use a pica on wood. I took a chance and bought one and am glad I did. I went through the first lead and have enough refills to last me a long, long time.
 

richfinn

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Great idea for a thread 👍

Always used Sharpies for marking stuff (auto mechanic), nice to know there are a lot more options.

I use coloured highlighter pens for tracing wires on printed wiring diagrams quite often and it's a big help when you have 54 year old eyes 🤓
 

dutchgray

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I use carpenters pencils, standard pencils in B, HB and 2H, pico dry markers, any cheap black permanent markers and timber crayons at work (building, we do the general work from a bare site to a finished project, but get the specialist trades to to their bits)

In my workshop I have a whole lot more, blue Dykem, permanent ink markers, chalk pens, french chalk, standard white chalk crayons, paint pens, metallic colours permanent ink markers (cheap BIC ones meant for kids, excellent on hot rolled steel)
 
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Dave455

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my mechanical pencil
I quite like the Kuru Toga’s too!

For those not familiar with them, they have a unique mechanism that rotates the lead as you write, avoiding flat spots. This results in a cushioned feel, msking them very nice to write and draw with.

I tend to use 2B lead in automatic pencils, which transforms them. I also prefer 0.7mm for general use. The top Kuru Toga is a 0.7 - they’re harder to find.

For me, possibly a little delicate for workshop or jobsite use!2FDDB43F-C35E-494C-ABFA-3A102CBEB262.jpeg
 
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Dave455

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For marking cut lines on wood, I generally use the point of the sheepsfoot blade on my stockman's knife. I prefer that to a pencil mark, but only when I'll be cutting on the line.
I know a few experienced carpenters who prefer to mark with a knife. The argument is that by cutting the fibres of the wood the saw starts in exactly the right position.

I think there’s something in this, but for most of my woodworking I need the pencil line.

There are “marking knives” available that are only ground on one side, to be used against a straight edge!DCFD8641-B4B4-4EE3-B1B3-0AE777B393CF.jpeg
 

Garcky

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I know a few experienced carpenters who prefer to mark with a knife. The argument is that by cutting the fibres of the wood the saw starts in exactly the right position.

I think there’s something in this, but for most of my woodworking I need the pencil line.

There are “marking knives” available that are only ground on one side, to be used against a straight edge!DCFD8641-B4B4-4EE3-B1B3-0AE777B393CF.jpeg
Well, I have never worked at a level of precision on wood that would require that marking knife, really. One of my reasons for using the point of a knife blade, though, is that I always have that pocket knife in my right front pocket. Always. So, I never have to go look for a pencil to mark cut lines. The pencil is always somewhere other than where I am, it seems.

Really, I dislike marking lines on wood. Even cut lines, really. For straight cuts, I use a variety of methods, depending on the equipment, but I rarely actually mark a line for a cut. Just the edge will do. But, I'm a radial arm saw user, so that's all that's needed in most cases. If I'm cutting multiple identical lengths, I'll typically clamp a stop on the saw's fence. For ripping the the saw's settings fix the blade position.

But, if I need a line, a scribed line always works best for me, really.
 
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Dave455

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Great idea for a thread 👍

Always used Sharpies for marking stuff (auto mechanic), nice to know there are a lot more options.

I use coloured highlighter pens for tracing wires on printed wiring diagrams quite often and it's a big help when you have 54 year old eyes 🤓
I tend to use highlighter pencils a lot more now.

That’s partly because I fly a lot, and liquid ink highlighters don’t work well long term in the air, but the pencils are way better for diagrams as you can sharpen them to a point.

The Faber “Drylighter” was the original, but I prefer the Lyra now.

The Inoxcrom highlighter’s are a sort of luminous gel crayon. They’re an excellent design.
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Dave455

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I use carpenters pencils, standard pencils in B, HB and 2H, pico dry markers, any cheap black permanent markers and timber crayons at work (building, we do the general work from a bare site to a finished project, but get the specialist trades to to their bits)

In my workshop I have a whole lot more, blue Dykem, permanent ink markers, chalk pens, french chalk, standard white chalk crayons, paint pens, metallic colours permanent ink markers (cheap BIC ones meant for kids, excellent on hot rolled steel)
I struggle a bit marking hot rolled steel. The Pica Visors work fine, but they tend to be a bit big for my needs. I’ve used a fine silver spirit marker with some success, but they seem to have a limited life!
 

Skiff Builder

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I know a few experienced carpenters who prefer to mark with a knife. The argument is that by cutting the fibres of the wood the saw starts in exactly the right position.

I think there’s something in this, but for most of my woodworking I need the pencil line.

There are “marking knives” available that are only ground on one side, to be used against a straight edge!DCFD8641-B4B4-4EE3-B1B3-0AE777B393CF.jpeg
When spiling and and laying out curved cut lines for the boat, I use a modified version of the above. Always have a sharp chisel- easy to do on any job.
 

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Max

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FWIW, for my woodworking I use .5 mm pentel pencils with 2B lead. If I’m working with rough wood I’ll move to a .7 or .9.
 

danski0224

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Sola has a nice range of pencils, including one that will mark on damp wood. They have a hard version that marks on stuff like concrete, but does not wear down so fast.

I would like to get their sharpener, but last I looked, I was not easily able to get it in the USA.

The Pica Visor looks interesting. The standard USA lumber crayons are too hard and brittle.

And those Picas are not exactly inexpensive. Lee Valley looks to be a reasonable source.
 
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neophyte

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Fisher Space pen refills will write on most materials.
I think one of the exceptions was certain brands of baking parchment.
They come in multiple colors.
Unfortunately not white.
The silver version isn’t bad for marking on dark wood, or black steel surfaces.
You get a fine line, and no need to sharpen.
 
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Dave455

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Sola has a nice range of pencils, including one that will mark on damp wood. They have a hard version that marks on stuff like concrete, but does not wear down so fast.

I would like to get their sharpener, but last I looked, I was not easily able to get it in the USA.

The Pica Visor looks interesting. The standard USA lumber crayons are too hard and brittle.

And those Picas are not exactly inexpensive. Lee Valley looks to be a reasonable source.
They offer a version of the Pica style pencil too.A1FCE94C-E62C-46B7-914B-CFB4B8D53F9E.jpeg

It looks as though Bleispitz are the manufacturer. I suspect they make the other Sola pencils too.
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They offer a large range of specialist pencils. I might try some of their carpenters pencils.
 

mogandave

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Yeah, soapstone is great on hot-roll.

For GA or cold-roll more precision stuff, scribe with or without dykem layout dye.

For low precision on hot or cold-roll or GA paint-markers or sharpie

Wood I just use a pencil...
 

Odd-job

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Realized today silver welding pencils work great on wet pressure treated wood. I might have to phase out graphite carpenter pencils going forward.
 

MushCreek

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Sharpies, .7mm mechanical pencils, and Mitsubishi (really!) #2 pencils. They somehow made regular #2 pencils impossible to sharpen, so I searched for highly rated pencils, and hit on the Mits. The only downside is the dark maroon color makes them disappear faster the the usual pencil.
 
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Dave455

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Sharpies, .7mm mechanical pencils, and Mitsubishi (really!) #2 pencils. They somehow made regular #2 pencils impossible to sharpen, so I searched for highly rated pencils, and hit on the Mits. The only downside is the dark maroon color makes them disappear faster the the usual pencil.
That will be the the Mitsubishi “Hi-Uni”. The “Ko-Ken” of pencils!

I have a small stock of these as well.
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I never intended this thread to be about drafting pencils, but as we‘ve strayed in that direction I should probably give “full disclosure” and admit that I started my working life as a draughtsman. Consequently, I have zero tolerance for inadequate pencils!

Aside from the Mitsubishi, some consistent favourites are shown below.
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The “Venus” are an all time favourite of mine for writing. I’ve used these for probably 40 years plus. Sadly, long out of production, and the very last weren’t great. The “Britool” of pencils. Thankfully, I have a fair stash!

Berol (formerly Eagle) “Turquoise” drawing pencils. The best drawing pencils ever. Nothing else can take, and hold, a fine point so well. (See the short one). Again, long out of production, and nothing modern is as good.

Cumberland ”Derwent”. A different texture and colour to many other pencils. Lovely for freehand drawing and sketching, but that’s not really my thing.

Staedtler Lumograph. Good quality modern pencil. Probably my go to in the absence of the “Turquoise”. The “Hazet” of pencils.

Faber Castell 9000. Another good quality pencil. Different colour and feel to the Staedtler. Nice for writing. The “Stahlwille” of pencils.

Caran d’Ache Technograph. Lovely texture to the lead, slide beautifully and give a bold line, but long lasting. A classic drawing pencil, I love these for lettering on drawings. The “PB Swiss” of pencils.

Tombow Mono. Don’t know how to describe these, but if you like the Mitsubishi you will love these. Beautiful to write or draw with, good all rounder. Probably the best modern pencil out there. Definitely the “Nepros” of pencils!
 
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dr_clyde

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Black or blue Sharpie for most of the metal non critical things. Carbide scribe if it gets more precise. Markal Silver streak welder’s pencil for hot rolled or surfaces the sharpies don’t mark well.

I usually use a free carpenter’s pencil from the lumber yard if I’m marking wood. I rarely use wood, mostly work with metal.

Zebra F-70I as an everyday carry pen.
 

Gizmosity

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I was just having a conversation about marking things the other day.....as you do.

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This is what I have around me all the time. For metal I usually use a double ended Sharpie with a finer point on one end but I need to buy some more. For building furniture I'm usually just using the Sharpie to color in an area to mark with a scribe on metals because I hate the smell/mess of my Dykem layout fluid. My kids Dixon Ticonderoga is for marking rough lumber. From there it just sort of goes down to the most accurate form of line. I gave up using my 0.5mm Pentel years ago on wood. I break that lead anytime it touches anything but paper, so that's usually all I use it for. I like the way the Blackwings flow across the paper so I sketch a lot with those. General marking/non cutting is with a 0.9mm Pentel. My finest marking is done with a Hock violin knife. It's rare that I need it. Dovetails and cut line marking, for me, get marked with a freshly sharpened Staedler lead holder with a Mitsubishi F lead. I used to use the Exacto Knife to mark dovetails but I always ended up marking the line with a pencil anyway so I just eliminated the step. I still use it every once in a while. I can sharpen the lead in the lead holder and pull it out quite a ways and mark difficult to get to areas.
Not shown is chalk. I use it to quickly mark parts and pieces on rough lumber before I bring it into the shop. It's easily brushed away if I change my mind.
Interesting to see what others like and use for various things.
 

ecotec

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I never need another pencil… but I still buy cool ones at estate sales.

I like pre-area code advertising and other local pencils, fancy art and drafting pencils, pencils from local companies, stores, and contractors of the 1950’s.

I will also buy huge boxes of USA #2 pencils at estate sales. My kid will have enough USA made pencils to get him through college. I bought a few boxes Ford Motor Company pencils.

I found some Blackwings and some Bruce Lee Blackwings once.
 

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ecotec

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This is a fraction of what I have.

These are examples of what I like to find… Detroit Metro Area pre-area code advertising is my favorite…

If you use vintage pencils, you need to buy separate erasers. 1950’s erasers are pretty much useless. I like Staedler and Factis plastic erasers.

On top of all of this, I like mechanical pencils, paint pens, wood crayons, soap stones, ink pens, blind/small hole markers…
 

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Kuma601

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For me it is Pentel mechanical pencils in .05 and .09 mm sizes (HB lead) along with Sharpies in fine and X-fine tips. Also use 2-6b pencils for other marking items where a softer darker mark is easier to see. A variety of carbide tipped scribes as well.
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sparky 1971

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For markers, it's whatever I have available. Usually Sharpie, but I have a few of the Milwaukee Inkzalls laying around as well as paint pens. Pencils are where I get picky. Depending on what I'm doing, I will use, top to bottom, Fat Boy with a 6mm lead, I don't know the brand of the green one, it's sold by Menards and says Menards on it, 2mm lead, Rite in the Rain 1.2mm lead, and for taking notes and lists, an Alvin Draftmatic .9mm lead.
 

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BTL-A4

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Pentel 0.9mm for taking notes on paper and writing on wood, Inkzall marker for rough cuts in metal, Sharpie fine point for slightly less-rough cuts in metal, #2 pencils for wood, metal scribe for finer cuts in anything metal, Dixon Reach occasionally since it's hard to get a really sharp tip on it, a 0.3mm Pentel mechanical for fine marks (it breaks easily so I have to be gentle) and china markers for rough cuts for anything the others won't write on.

The main one is the #2 pencil. I have tons of them from when I was a shop teacher at a middle school. I found them on the floor all the time. I kept the good ones (longer, with intact erasers). I have a crank sharpener in my garage and just use one per project or until they get too short to fit in the sharpener, or break one too many times when sharpening them.

I used to use fine point Sharpies, but they dry out too quick and the felt tips wear out too fast.
 
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