electrical I may have missed

[Scotto]

I'd suggest 120V receptacles every 4' along all walls and run 240V wiring around the back and sides of the garage with some boxes. You may want to move an air compressor or large tool somewhere else and it's a lot easier if you have some wire in the walls. You don't need many breakers/circuits because most 240V equipment you'll only be using 1 at a time.

 

[dcg9381]

You are missing what I meant.

12/2 nmb and 20a breakers are a smart move. You just don't need to use 20a receptacles. 15's are code compliant on a 20a circuit, as long ad there is more than a single receptacle, and a duplex is enough to meet that

12/3. You can get two separate circuits out of it (out of phase, share the neutral). The things GJ and electricians have taught me.

 

[iagsxr]

Surface mount your outlets and run wire in conduit. Bury the bare minimum inside the walls.

Install a larger panel than you think you'll ever need. The ability to add circuits later is priceless.

I wouldn't mess around with multiple lighting circuits. My shop is 36' x 48', lights are on four switches. If I'm out there they are all on.

 

[555]

The 2020 NEC version is the current minimum accepted in Georgia. I'm assuming that you had to get a permit to build the garage from either a city or county authority. This authority probably will conduct inspections before the building is approved for use. If so be sure to check with the permit authority to make sure they don't have additional requirements. At some point the permit authority will likely ask to see your electrical plan including internal and external lighting. Don't be surprised if they require circuits for an electric car charger. Some counties/cities in Georgia are already requiring it.

 

[dfiler2]

12/3. You can get two separate circuits out of it (out of phase, share the neutral). The things GJ and electricians have taught me.

Be careful doing this in a garage that requires GFCI protected outlets. You can install a GFCI breaker and make that work but it will cost you. Ask me how I know this, but the solution did come from GJ. I was about to run a second neutral as I used EMT but when I found I could just use a $150 breaker decided to go that route.

 

[kngelv]

If you are starting from scratch then I agree that it is better to put in more outlets than you think you need. Every 4-5 feet as someone suggested is a good idea. Put at least one 240 outlet in each wall. I like at least one outside outlet on every wall. Some thoughts if this is going to be a permanent shop and especially if you intend to stay there for life. Surface mount everything in conduit or channel. It is much easier to add and remove things this way rather than dealing with stuff behind the walls. Also ignore the penny savers and put 20A receptacles in there instead of 15A ones.

James

 

[CraigStu]

A couple of suggestions for more 240V outlets and for running the wire through the walls. Would there be any downside to running the 240 into and out of a typical blue box and wire nutting the ends together? One could curl a couple of "Z"s worth of wire in the box so later there would be enough wire there to add in whatever style outlet is needed.

 

[mike93lx]

Be careful doing this in a garage that requires GFCI protected outlets. You can install a GFCI breaker and make that work but it will cost you. Ask me how I know this, but the solution did come from GJ. I was about to run a second neutral as I used EMT but when I found I could just use a $150 breaker decided to go that route.

You just use gfci receptacles and keep the neutrals separate when going to anything downstream

 

[dfiler2]

Yes, I suppose I could have solved the problem by using 30 GFCI receptacles.

 

[mike93lx]

Yes, I suppose I could have solved the problem by using 30 GFCI receptacles.

Huh? One for each circuit is all you need. 15-20 bucks vs a $50 breaker. Seems pretty simple

 

[dfiler2]

You can't share the neutral though, I quoted the post where the person said you can use 12-3 and split the circuit and share the neutral. The GFCI will immediately trip if you do it the way you are suggesting.

 

[mike93lx]

You can't share the neutral though, I quoted the post where the person said you can use 12-3 and split the circuit and share the neutral. The GFCI will immediately trip if you do it the way you are suggesting.

You can't share it downstream but what I suggested will work because it isn't shared on the load side. I have a MWBC in my garage with two grci receptacles. Works just fine

Plus you only need one for an entire circuit if you wire them properly

 

[Smoker]

Things I learned when I built my last shop -

1. 50amp 220V service was PLENTY to run a big compressor, welder, lift etc. Don't go nuts, you'll just waste money on wire.
2. 20a outlets are over the top. I wasted money on the larger wire and the receptacles. Stick to 15a and 14/2
3. If you need a beefy 220v outlet for something like a 5hp compressor, try and keep it close to the sub panel. The wire is hard to run and expensive
4. As mentioned, put receptacles in the ceiling and by the door for a jack shaft opener. Even if you don't think you'll use them.
5. Put some weatherproof receptacles on the outside walls, you'll never know if you want to work outside and running extension cords through a door or windows is a PITA.
6. Put some receptacles higher up on the walls or on the ceiling for retracting cord reels.
7. Buy the lighting fixtures before you wire the shop. I had to **** around because my plan changed, i evended up buying the Costco LEDs and they daisy chain so my wiring plan was wrong
8. Buy more light fixtures than you think you need.. because well, dark shops ****. I had 14' ceilings and thats a ways to illuminate

 

[mike93lx]

If you need a beefy 220v outlet for something like a 5hp compressor, try and keep it close to the sub panel. The wire is hard to run and expensive

5hp compressors can't use plugs unless you spend big bucks on pin and sleeve. They need to be hardwired

 

[Smoker]

5hp compressors can't use plugs unless you spend big bucks on pin and sleeve. They need to be hardwired

According to whom? Is that requirement stated in the NEC code somewhere?

 

[mike93lx]

According to whom? Is that requirement stated in the NEC code somewhere?

NEC. On HP rated motors, the plug needs to match the motor. There are no 5 hp plus outside of pin and sleeve

 

[Smoker]

NEC. On HP rated motors, the plug needs to match the motor. There are no 5 hp plus outside of pin and sleeve

Does that apply to welders? 5hp @ 220v is about 18amps, well within a 50 amp receptacle rating.

 

[mike93lx]

Does that apply to welders? 5hp @ 220v is about 18amps, well within a 50 amp receptacle rating.

Welders don't have a horsepower rating, so no

 

[logical]

A cluster of 4-8 outlets wherever you would keep chargers.

If applicable, outlets near where anything is kept on a battery tender.

Outlets near every door to minimize extension cord length when doing suff out in the driveway. I have retractable 30' cord reels near each garage door.

 

[Joemctag]

Well at least you are down South where it doesnt get quite as cold as here so you can work with the door open if you have to

Personally, I would “cheat”. After the garage was built and signed off on, I’d build onto the back wall what could look like a “temporary” garden shed. Maybe on block piers and lumber skids to look like that’s what it is, rather than part of the garage. Open up the wall and you’ve got plenty of room to work, including some workbench space. I like to lay out all my parts, tools, etc on a makeshift table at least. Be good if the floors could be level, to work that floor jack around and especially not to trip and fall. Otherwise, leave the car sticking out the front, which we’ve all had to do, I’m sure.
Good luck!

 

[Parsimony]

I didn’t read all the comments above, sorry. However I think you should consider a drop cord on the ceiling. On a retractable spool. Keep the cords off the floor. I don’t have one but I wish I did.

 

[Monza Harry]

I'll weigh in here, there are plenty of tools that are both 110-120/220-240, so consider that split plugs give you the option of a simple plug change when you find that welder/plasma cutter isn't up to snuff on the low voltage set-up. Also I've used plenty of welders that just weren't performing with the 14 gauge/15A power, however they seem like a new machine on a 20A circuit with 12 gauge wire. Chop saws, bigger grinders [are included with the power requirements] as well as the welders-plasma's will run cooler and with more output with a bigger power supply. And to the 110-120/220-240 controversy I've personally seen many different tools/appliances stating 110V, 115V, 120V & 220V, 230V and 240V 115/230 V as the median and then the other Voltages are with-in a total 10% variance. I guess this is dependant on your age and vintage of the equiment you've used! Harry

 

[bb29510]

its not how much power you have but how much power you are running at one time, there no different have (2) 15 amp receptacles and a (1000) 15 amp receptacles if you are just running 30 amps at a time

 

[dave*99]

And to the 110-120/220-240 controversy I've personally seen many different tools/appliances stating 110V, 115V, 120V & 220V, 230V and 240V 115/230 V as the median and then the other Voltages are with-in a total 10% variance. I guess this is dependant on your age and vintage of the equiment you've used! Harry

There is no controversy. You will certainly find all those voltages listed on the tools and appliances.

What you won't find is a power company that will supply all those different voltages. At my house you get 120 and 240. If I want 220 I need to install my own transformer. But the POCO will supply all the 240 I can possibly use.

 

[dave*99]

Also ignore the penny savers and put 20A receptacles in there instead of 15A ones.

James

A good quality receptacle with a 15A face will have the same internal contacts as the same type with a 20A face. It is very common to run a 12 ga. circuit on an 20A breaker with 15A receptacles.

The only significant reason to use a 20A receptacle is to accommodate a 5-20P which has a horizontal blade.

Do you have any 20A plugs? So far I've seen a professional floor buffer, a window air conditioner and a commercial large audio power amplifier with one. That's about it.

I have a ton of portable and stationary power tools and machines of various capacities and ages, none of which have a 5-20P. Most of my stationary stuff has 120/240 capable motors. So mine are all on 240.


Here is a 120V 20A plug:

 

[Carguy99]

I ran all of the outlets on the surface… I’ve moved a few …surface mounting makes it real easy..
all outlets should be 20 amp