Coats GTS 70 tire machine motor

[waybel]

Got it working thanks for all your help

 

[PoorUB]

Great! Care to share what settings you ended up with? Or any weird settings?

 

[waybel]

i ended up using these setting
S1, S3, wired together is for low speed
S2, S3 wired together is for high speed
S4 is for reverse
And green wire from switches to COM
Used the PLC to program the 2 speeds
S3 is the Main FWD Run Terminal Connection S4 is the Reverse Connection

P0.01=1 (Remote Control)

P5.01=16 (S1 Terminal=Multi-Step Speed 1)

P5.02=17 (S2 Terminal=Multi-Step Speed 2)

P5.03=1 (Forward RUN) S3Terminal connection

P5.04=2 (Reverse RUN) S4Terminal connection

PA.04=20% (Adjustable 0-100% RPM Speed 1) This is a PLC Parameter to set the Slow Speed.

PA.06=30% (adjustable 0-100% RPM Speed 2) This is a PLC Parameter to set the Fast / Rapid Speed

 

[waybel]

I got the speeds of my table from Hunter's brochure I found online. Reverse and high are 15 rpm and low speed is 7 rpm. I bought a little photo tach that worked on the motor. On the actual table, I just marked it and timed one revolution and then played with the frequency to get those speeds.

Well after i thought i had this solved completely i didn't . I only had low speed and reverse connected when i tried it.When i hooked the high speed connection on neither would work.If i disconnected high speed the low speed and reverse would work and the same if i disconnected low speed the high speed and reverse would work Huanyang who was also helping and showed me wiring and parameters now says

​

​ ​ ​ HI , I sorry it can only make one function work alone, not both

 

[PoorUB]

The low speed switch needs to be off when the high speed switch turns on and viced verrsa. Any chance this is what is happening?

 

[waybel]

No even went the pedal is in the off position in the middle where it is not contacting any switches nothing happens when the 2 switches are wired .Think i can live with just one speed and reverse anyways.Tried the tire machine today and it works fine

 

[petebob]

It seems odd that just having the other switch wired would cause it not to work. Are they in series so one is blocking the circuit from being closed?

I used a jumper from the low speed terminal to the run terminal because the drive wanted a run signal as well as which speed. My low speed switch stays closed in high speed, too so it could provide that signal.

 

[waybel]

When i wire the 2 speeds the pedal is in off position so that none of the 3 switches are on .When i press the pedal for the first low speed switch nothing happens or press the pedal all the way down to activate the high speed switch nothing happens .If i disconnect one of them the other and reverse work

 

[petebob]

I think your high speed switch is getting a signal from S3 when theblow speed awitch is made and vice versa. So it sees s1 and s2 high at the same time. If you remove the connection to s3 from one speed, does the other work? If so, you could use 2 diodes to get the signal from S1 to S3 for low and one from S2 to S3 for high speed.

 

[PoorUB]

I think your high speed switch is getting a signal from S3 when theblow speed awitch is made and vice versa. So it sees s1 and s2 high at the same time. If you remove the connection to s3 from one speed, does the other work? If so, you could use 2 diodes to get the signal from S1 to S3 for low and one from S2 to S3 for high speed.

I missed this earlier. I agree, basically jumpering S1, S2 and S3 together isn't going to work. The OP needs to fine double pole micro switches, or find some other way to isolate the control wiring.

A couple diodes might work.

 

[waybel]

i may try the diode trick .Any certain size of diode you guys would recommend?

 

[PoorUB]

i may try the diode trick .Any certain size of diode you guys would recommend?

Nothing special as there is not real power on the control side. What ever you can find should work.

 

[waybel]

Well that didn't work either .Starting to think that 1 speed maybe just good enough. i even tried hooking up low and high speed to Com but that didn't work either

 

[waybel]

Think i put diodes in wrong place after reading what petebob said i should have put one in between S1 and S3 and another in between S2 and S3 ?

 

[waybel]

I think your high speed switch is getting a signal from S3 when theblow speed awitch is made and vice versa. So it sees s1 and s2 high at the same time. If you remove the connection to s3 from one speed, does the other work? If so, you could use 2 diodes to get the signal from S1 to S3 for low and one from S2 to S3 for high speed.

Bit confused .Where would i put the 2 diodes

 

[waybel]

ok i soldered diode from S1 to S3 with flow going to S3 and soldered another diode from S2 to S3 with current flowing to S3 and still not working if i did this correctly .Only reverse works

 

[PoorUB]

You need the wire from the switch going to S1 and the other switch to S2, then jumper from S1 to S3 with a diode and from S2 to S3 with a second diode. If they don't work, try switching the diode leads. I am not sure what the polarity is on the VFD controls.

The manual says 24 volt, but is it AC or DC voltage? I assume DC, but I would not swear to it.

If you have a volt meter test voltage from COM to S1 and see what it reads, AC or DC voltage.

If AC the diode deal will not work.

 

[waybel]

Have the diodes wired correctly and have 24 volts DC could it be a parameter issue?

 

[PoorUB]

Will the one speed work work wit the other wire disconnected? If you wire S1, S3 and com do you get one speed, then wire S2, S3 and com do you get the other speed?
I said earlier I often just use jumper wires to sort thinks out. The voltage coming from the control terminals will not even tickle you, so no worries about just trying wires and no switches.

 

[waybel]

yes both speeds work if you disconnect the other

 

[PoorUB]

yes both speeds work if you disconnect the other

Well, then you know the control wiring is screwing it up.

IMO, you need to go with something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T7E1JA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This switch would allow you to isolate the COM, S1, S3 and the COM, S2, S3 dilemma. Wired like this there will ber no cross connection.

 

[waybel]

So i need 2 of those switches and these replace the 2 that are on the foot pedal for high and low that are there now?

 

[PoorUB]

So i need 2 of those switches and these replace the 2 that are on the foot pedal for high and low that are there now?

Yes, you might find them elsewhere for a better price. I just looked on Amazon.

 

[waybel]

They don't look too expensive like 5 for $12 i guess i would have to run another wire from S3 back to the switch

 

[PoorUB]

They don't look too expensive like 5 for $12 i guess i would have to run another wire from S3 back to the switch

Just jumper the S3 from switch to switch.

I just realized I messed up the switch drawing, so this one instead

 

[waybel]

Well, then you know the control wiring is screwing it up.

IMO, you need to go with something like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T7E1JA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

This switch would allow you to isolate the COM, S1, S3 and the COM, S2, S3 dilemma. Wired like this there will ber no cross connection.

Doesn't look like any of those switches would work they are all SPDT

 

[petebob]

I would check for continuity from s1 to com and s3 to com @ low speed and s2 to com and s3 to com when the high switch is made. Also, make sure there is no continuity between s1 and s2 @ any switch position. When the pedal is released, there shouldn't be any continuity from S3 to any other lead.

 

[PoorUB]

Doesn't look like any of those switches would work they are all SPDT

The link shows a DPDT switch. The factory switch on the Coats tire changer is SPDT.

 

[waybel]

I would check for continuity from s1 to com and s3 to com @ low speed and s2 to com and s3 to com when the high switch is made. Also, make sure there is no continuity between s1 and s2 @ any switch position. When the pedal is released, there shouldn't be any continuity from S3 to any other lead.

It's all good .I have checked this several times

 

[petebob]

Then it seems it has to be something in the settings. I'll look through your manual and see how similar the parameters are to mine.

 

[waybel]

Then it seems it has to be something in the settings. I'll look through your manual and see how similar the parameters are to mine.

https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2018/08/GT-series-manual.pdf

 

[petebob]

Looking at the chart on p. 69, I would try to use stage 5 (S1,S3 high) and 6 (S2,S3 high) for your 2 speeds instead of stage 1 and 2.

 

[waybel]

Looking at the chart on p. 69, I would try to use stage 5 (S1,S3 high) and 6 (S2,S3 high) for your 2 speeds instead of stage 1 and 2.

These are currently the only parameters i currently have .Which parameters should i be putting in to match what you said to try?
P0.01=1 (Remote Control)

P5.01=16 (S1 Terminal=Multi-Step Speed 1)

P5.02=17 (S2 Terminal=Multi-Step Speed 2)

P5.03=1 (Forward RUN) S3Terminal connection

P5.04=2 (Reverse RUN) S4Terminal connection

PA.04=20% (Adjustable 0-100% RPM Speed 1) This is a PLC Parameter to set the Slow Speed.

PA.06=30% (adjustable 0-100% RPM Speed 2) This is a PLC Parameter to set the Fast / Rapid Speed

Last edited: Jan 15, 2023

 

[PoorUB]

Looking at the chart on p. 69, I would try to use stage 5 (S1,S3 high) and 6 (S2,S3 high) for your 2 speeds instead of stage 1 and 2.

I will admit, I a confused.
Waybel says each speed works when independently wired, so it looks like the jumpering of S3 to the other inputs throug the single pole switch is the cause. How does this clear that up?

 

[petebob]

PA.04 is multi speed step 1 and PA.06 is step 2. When switch s1 and s3 are made, the chart indicates to use stage 5. I interpret that as step 5. So, I would switch PA.04 for PA.12. I would switch PA0.6 for PA.14. I'm just guessing and I've never played with a vfd before the one I put on my machine. The defaults on those are 0, so it would make sense that it wouldn't run. Does the display show the commanded frequency?

 

[petebob]

I'm just guessing.... but it has 2 made switches so it looks at step 5 for the required frequency. The default frequency is 0, so it shouldn't run.



How does this clear that up?

 

[PoorUB]

PA.04 is multi speed step 1 and PA.06 is step 2. When switch s1 and s3 are made, the chart indicates to use stage 5. I interpret that as step 5. So, I would switch PA.04 for PA.12. I would switch PA0.6 for PA.14. I'm just guessing and I've never played with a vfd before the one I put on my machine. The defaults on those are 0, so it would make sense that it wouldn't run. Does the display show the commanded frequency?

Sure, but you still need to close S1, S3 and S2, S3. The problem is with the wiring from the control switches. Perhaps I am missing somthing

Is there a parameter that will get you foreward control and one spped and forward control and second speed with using one input each? or without sharing S3?

My understanding is this is what he has now and the problem arises with pretty much jumpering S1,S2,S3 together wit the switches. We need to move away from the sharing of S3 or isolate the control signals.

 

[PoorUB]

I'm just guessing.... but it has 2 made switches so it looks at step 5 for the required frequency. The default frequency is 0, so it shouldn't run.



How does this clear that up?

Correct but how do you energize S1 S3, and then S2, S3 with single pole switches and keep S1 and S2 isolated???

I don't see where that cures the wiring problem.

 

[waybel]

Also having a difficult time finding those 2 DPDT switches to match what i have so that the existing pedal lobes will work on the new switches. The only ones i have found are like $60 for 2 plus shipping and i am not spending that much

 

[petebob]

Correct but how do you energize S1 S3, and then S2, S3 with single pole switches and keep S1 and S2 isolated???

I don't see where that cures the wiring problem.

He used diodes. Checking continuity for each switch position it sounds correct to me.