Before I start this "sitting for a long time" pressure washer, what should I do?

[The Thin Man]

Hi Gang,

The little old lady across my street is moving on and to my surprise, she wheeled over a Craftsman pressure washer, with a 158cc Briggs & Stratton, 550 Engine Series (model 580.750901) motor on it. Apparently, it's got 2,200 max psi and looks just like this one. Not a bad score!

The problem is, it's been sitting under her house awning (west side) for a little time. How long? I don't know but it's pretty dirty so probably a few years. I don't think she's used it for a long time as her husband died awhile ago. But she does have people come over from time to time to do chores for her so someone, at some point, may have used it. I personally think it'll clean up to look like new but I'm most concerned with the engine.

The unit has fuel in it and there definitely is some black grit at the bottom of the tank. The air filter looks brand new and full of oil. The oil level measures the tiniest drip on the very end of the dipstick so, technically it needs more. But of course, I should check it warm to get a more accurate reading.

But, I haven't started it yet because, before I do, I want to get thoughts on what I should do, as preventive steps, before ripping the cord and seeing what happens. Or, is that the right step? Crank it and see if it starts?

I have no clue how old that fuel is so I'm worried most about it having water and other nasty stuff in it.

Any thoughts are appreciated!

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

If the sniff test is marginal, I drain the fuel bowl into a clean dry container, that being the low point,it's the 1st place water will collect. If that looks ok, I'll give it a yank and go from there. If it fires and dies the needle is often stuck to the seat, only runs with choke,try to clean main jet.

This being a pressure washer, hook it up to water before starting, they don't like running dry.

I have about that same one in black, it's been a good unit, but I did upgrade to rubber hose.

 

[rockcrawler]

I would remove the fuel tank a clean it out to keep any junk from flowing into the carb. Most likely as mentioned above, the carb will be dirty and need to be cleaned. Crazy, but sometimes a new carb is cheaper than the rebuild kits. I had someone give me a Ryobi power washer because they said it would not start. They had it about a year and used it once. I took it home and messed with it a bit. Changed the oil, new carb (about $30), new fuel and ran perfect. I’ve been using it for several years now.

 

[paredown]

I would remove the fuel tank a clean it out to keep any junk from flowing into the carb. Most likely as mentioned above, the carb will be dirty and need to be cleaned. Crazy, but sometimes a new carb is cheaper than the rebuild kits. I had someone give me a Ryobi power washer because they said it would not start. They had it about a year and used it once. I took it home and messed with it a bit. Changed the oil, new carb (about $30), new fuel and ran perfect. I’ve been using it for several years now.

Bought a wood splitter a few years back that had a broken pull rope mechanism, and hadn't been run in some time. Did the 'drain and clean', clean carb, new gas filter--the usual--and got it to start and run. But it would still do the stumble and seek, so I went on Amazon, and whole carbs were like $15. Chinese--and not the best quality, but at that price you can throw them away after a couple of years if you have to.
Mine has continued to function though, so maybe better than I thought.

 

[billconner]

If it's been exposed to freezing, check the pump. Not sure if just connecting water will show leaks or not.

 

[HotRod68Camaro]

I just did this with a pressure washer that had been sitting for two years. Dump all the fuel, clean the tank, remove the carb, clean the carb, and reassemble. It might just start right up. My factory carb was clogged up, but after cleaning it and running it for a bit it run like new. If that doesn't work, get a new carb off amazon. You can also get a new pump off amazon, if the pump is cracked like mine was. Pretty easy to find the right size with a little google work.

 

[nbpt100]

The weak link in these machines is the pump. The engine almost always out lasts the pump. 1st determine if the pump is not cracked from freezing water. Put your garden hose to it and see if any thing leaks out. Never run a pressure washer with out water going to the pump. Not even for a minute. This is how people damage them. Just look on CL at how many pressure washers are for sale that say engine is great pump is bad. "Maybe you can use it on a lawn mower". Wrong they wont work on a mower. The shaft is way too short and the diameter/keyway taped hole etc. is usually wrong making it a huge engineering project.

If it leaks out somewhere other than the connections then it is toast. You can replace the orings or hose wahser easily enough. If ok go to the next step and try starting the engine if the tank looks clean . Always with water going to the pump.

look inside the tank and if it looks bad. Like rust and maybe water you have to drain it out. The tank comes off pretty easily on this engine. Note the carb sits on top of the tank. You do not have to remove it but it would be a good idea so you can clean the bowl. It is likely full of crud. You can buy a diaphragm kit for that carb if you need it. Lowes has them for about $5.

Once you are past all that, Check the oil and top off with 10w30 or SAE30. Add fresh gas and start it up with the water running. See how it works.

Make sure the unloader valve is kicking it. You can adjust it. Plenty of good Youtube videos on how to. You can also remove it and clean it out. it may be full of deposits. the unloader valve is the only part on the pump that is practical to replace if it is a problem. They usually just need too be cleaned, lube seals with silicone grease or valve grease and adjust as needed.

If the pump seems to work you have a great little home owner pressure washer. Good luck.

PS.

if the pump is bad you can look for a new one on ebay. I do not know if one is available or not for your specific application but there are some out there in the $ 100-150 range which in my opinion can be worth the investment if all else looks good.

I hope this was helpful.

 

[The Thin Man]

Never run a pressure washer with out water going to the pump. Not even for a minute. This is how people damage them.

Despite the trove of incredibly good information you have all provided me, this bit was worth the price of admission alone! I did not know that about pressure washers but will certainly abide by the rule. I'm certain the pump has been in freezing conditions so this is first on my list.

Also, reading, "drain the fuel", how would one do that? Tip it over into a container? I don't own a fuel siphon nor did I want to buy one just for this project as I don't have any other gas powered engines (other than my car).

 

[billconner]

I froze mine and split pump - just about impossible to drain I realize too late - but after repeated unsuccessful attempts at finding a pump, I found a returned on at tools direct for $150. Lots of spare parts now - everything except pump - stored in basement. Mine is just a model for which they will not sell a replacement pump.

 

[nbpt100]

Despite the trove of incredibly good information you have all provided me, this bit was worth the price of admission alone! I did not know that about pressure washers but will certainly abide by the rule. I'm certain the pump has been in freezing conditions so this is first on my list.

Also, reading, "drain the fuel", how would one do that? Tip it over into a container? I don't own a fuel siphon nor did I want to buy one just for this project as I don't have any other gas powered engines (other than my car).

On your Briggs and Stratton engine you have to tip the machine on its side to drain the gas. There is no gas line to disconnect and not a removable carb bowl or any kind of drain. You can remove the gas tank and that would be the most thorough way to do it. As I said above the carb sits on top of the tank. If you take your time you can do it. Take note to where the governor link goes in the carb. I think there is only one hole on your carb that it will fit in but just in case there are more. Take note.

However, if the gas in the tank does not look terrible just tip it to drain out what you can. it does not have to be perfect. Then add fresh gas with a bit of Seafoam. You should be just fine. The Seafoam is optional but many people swear by its cleaning and fuel stabilizing properties.

 

[The Thin Man]

Thank you, @nbpt100!

 

[nbpt100]

I froze mine and split pump - just about impossible to drain I realize too late - but after repeated unsuccessful attempts at finding a pump, I found a returned on at tools direct for $150. Lots of spare parts now - everything except pump - stored in basement. Mine is just a model for which they will not sell a replacement pump.

It is always a good idea to use the Pump Saver when you store it for the winter. Even if you store it where freezing is not a concern. It has anti corrosion oils that prevent the aluminum from oxidizing. That is what eventually killed the pump on mine around year 10. I always stored in the basement but the corrosion built up and the seals went. When the inside is that corroded (you will see a bunch of white crud)you really can not rebuild them. It just keep getting worse and you will be totally frustrated if you try. A new pump was like $120. Less than a new pressure washer for sure and better than taking a chance on a used one that may be around that or more.

This is just one example of something Lowes sells. There are many out there.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Briggs-Stratton-4-fl-oz-Pump-Saver/5014119413

 

[The Cobbler]

I would start by making sure the pump holds ( no leaks)
then check for free spinning engine ( not ceased)
check for spark
drain fuel and carb
put some fuel into carb throat & see if it starts

after you've confirmed above,
most likely the carb & fuel system needs cleaning at a minimum
change & top up oil
and chase gremlins

 

[The Thin Man]

I've been slowly tinkering with the pressure washer and so far, everything has been looking very good. The pump holds water and the gasoline was tipped out easily. After cleaning the unit and pulling off the air filter, I was looking at the choke linkage. I see from pulling the choke lever, it moves but it doesn't move the bar entering the engine. I took the video below to show what I'm talking about. Is this normal or am I missing something?

https://flic.kr/p/2ogvAAD

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Pretty sure not only is that normal, bit then home will automatically unapply itself on those after it starts. It's the super easy to use homeowner model, so you get no real influence over anything. Don't be surprised if you end up having to pump the fuel bulb a bit more than advertised.

 

[cgrutt]

Not sure if this was mentioned but I'd change oil on both engine AND pump. Be sure to use correct spec for pump its not same type that is used in engine. At min make sure pump has oil.

 

[The Thin Man]

Not sure if this was mentioned but I'd change oil on both engine AND pump. Be sure to use correct spec for pump its not same type that is used in engine. At min make sure pump has oil.

Good suggestions, Cgrutt. I didn't even look at the pump and its oil needs. Hopefully finding the dipstick isn't difficult.
Also, is there a good way to drain the oil in the engine? I'm not sure I see an easy way to do that other than... dump it over?

 

[cgrutt]

Not sure about your particular pressure washer but pump likely does not have a dipstick. May have a sight glass or just a fill bolt/lug/plug (not sure correct lingo here). Small engines usually have a bolt/lug/plug at bottom of crankcase that you remove to drain oil. It may make a mess depending on design. I've seen some where a threaded pipe and cap was added to make oil changes easier/cleaner in future. I wouldn't drain from oil fill by flipping engine over unlikely to get all the old oil out that way.

 

[WillyBoy]

My 15 year old honda engine on the pressure washer has a drain plug for the crankcase oil. The 5 year old honda mower has no drains anywhere. The only way to remove the old oil is to turn the entire mower on it's side, or almost completely inverted. They saved a buck or two by not putting a drain plug under the mower deck. This seems to be the way the manufacturers are heading, easier for them and harder for us.

 

[softailgarage]

I repaired many of these when I was a Sears repair tech, 9/10 times the carb is clogged and needs to be cleaned. For me time was of the essence, so I would get one from the van and replace it (besides, I hate re-building carbs). Usually somebody let it sit, then tried starting it with bad gas, so check the plug, if its fouled replace it too. Check the oil, hook up a water hose and fire it up.

 

[cgrutt]

My 15 year old honda engine on the pressure washer has a drain plug for the crankcase oil. The 5 year old honda mower has no drains anywhere. The only way to remove the old oil is to turn the entire mower on it's side, or almost completely inverted. They saved a buck or two by not putting a drain plug under the mower deck. This seems to be the way the manufacturers are heading, easier for them and harder for us.

Haven't seen that probably expect you to use an oil extractor. Wonder what manual says.

ETA... nope i just looked one up they want you to tilt mower on side and drain through fill stem. Weird.

 

[P0234]

Dump the fuel in the bowl and tank. Take the fuel hose off the carb and fill it up with carb cleaner. Let it sit a few hours, drop the bowl again. Repeat one more time, say a prayer and pull the cord. If it doesn't fire, spray a little carb cleaner into the intake. That's usually enough to start stuff that's been sitting for a few years. If it will run on carb spray but not gas from the tank, its $20 amazon/ebay carburetor time.

 

[WillyBoy]

Realizing that this is a little bit of thread drift.....

I couldn't remember the exact wording in the manual so I looked it up.

"Drain the engine oil when the engine is warm. Warm oil drains quickly and completely.
1. Turn the fuel valve to the OFF position to reduce the possibility of fuel leakage.
2. Place a suitable container next to the engine to catch the used oil.
3. Remove the oil filler cap/dipstick [1] and drain the oil into the container by tipping the engine toward the oil filler neck [4]."



This is essentially saying "tip the engine over" LOL.
What they didn't say is "Make sure the gas cap is on securely".

 

[sgf13]

Get the manual and confirm what oil the pump takes. The General and Cat brand pumps on my commercial machines take pressure washer pump oil, readily available. As others have said, the pumps are typically the weak link, especially on the homeowner machines. Congrats on your new machine.

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Dump the fuel in the bowl and tank. Take the fuel hose off the carb and fill it up with carb cleaner. Let it sit a few hours, drop the bowl again. Repeat one more time, say a prayer and pull the cord. If it doesn't fire, spray a little carb cleaner into the intake. That's usually enough to start stuff that's been sitting for a few years. If it will run on carb spray but not gas from the tank, its $20 amazon/ebay carburetor time.

If the carb has a rubber tipped needle this will make it swell up and need to be replaced.

 

[65ranchero]

I've been slowly tinkering with the pressure washer and so far, everything has been looking very good. The pump holds water and the gasoline was tipped out easily. After cleaning the unit and pulling off the air filter, I was looking at the choke linkage. I see from pulling the choke lever, it moves but it doesn't move the bar entering the engine. I took the video below to show what I'm talking about. Is this normal or am I missing something?

https://flic.kr/p/2ogvAAD

that lever may be the ground to stop the engine .
I can't remember exactly but it may not have a choke, shed is snowed in so can't look at mine right now.

 

[P0234]

If the carb has a rubber tipped needle this will make it swell up and need to be replaced.

Maybe, its always worked for me, but I'm sure it can cause issues. But then again, if you are having to resort the the carb spray, you might need that new $20 carb anyway.

 

[LSU]

I’m interested to see if you get it running.

 

[The Thin Man]

As always, the sound advice just keeps coming. Thanks to everyone's replies as I'm feeling quite confident in getting this beast running.
One thing I wanted to point out was a blurb from the owners manual regarding the pump and oil. Maybe since this is a simple, idiot-proof (sorta) home model, the manufacturer has removed the need for the consumer to ever have to oil the pump. Maybe that's good, maybe that's bad but I'm OK with this setup. One less thing for me to have to maintain!

 

[The Thin Man]

Hi Everyone.
It's been three months since this topic had activity and I finally have an update on my Craftsman pressure washer. I cherry picked advice from a number of your posts. Today, I smeared some silicon grease on the pressure hose connections, added fresh gasoline with a little Seafoam to it plus a 1/4 of a quart of fresh oil (it had almost none!), pumped the bulb 6 or 7 times, pulled the cord. Nothing. Pumped a few more times. Nothing. Then, on the fourth pull, the beast came to life with a bang and ran like a champ! I ended up cleaning off a few decades of moss on the sidewalk next to my deck that's probably been there since the Regan era. Now I see why everyone loves these things. It was fun to use and makes a tremendous difference. Next up is to clean the dirt off my gutters and front sidewalk (more moss).

Thanks to everyone who posted. I now am equipped to keep this one running and know how to properly winterize it. You guys/gals are great!

 

[nadogail]

Congratulations

 

[Jacko264]

well done when you have finished at your house you could come and clean my drive and paths

 

[californiamilleghia]

ok.....at the end of the season whats the best way to store it over the winter ?

how do you get all the water out of the pumps and hoses ?

thanks

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Assumiing the motor isn't locked up. I'd start by draining the gas, refill with fresh gas and top off the oil.
Hook up the hoses, turn on the water squeeze the trigger until a smooth flow of water comes out. Check for leaks.
Attempt to start it. Pumpfuel bulb if it has one, throttle full, choke on. (May take several pulls).
If it doesn't start then normal small engine troubleshooting. (Compression should be obvious, I usually check for spark next because it is quick and easy).
I've been successful at starting small engines that had sat for many years. Most don't require the carb work/replacement that some guys are recommending as step 1.

 

[ATC]

ok.....at the end of the season whats the best way to store it over the winter ?

how do you get all the water out of the pumps and hoses ?

thanks

You're in SoCal. Just put it in your garage like any other day. LOL


I'm in the mountains of VA, and that's all I ever do. No issues in many years. I have a 2800psi Troy-Bilt with a Briggs engine (sold by Lowe's). I only use mine a couple times a year. It always starts in 2 pulls in the spring. I did have to give it a shot of brake clean down the carb to get it to start after sitting once for 2.5 years.

 

[redmondjp]

ok.....at the end of the season whats the best way to store it over the winter ?

how do you get all the water out of the pumps and hoses ?

thanks

I made an adapter for the low-pressure water input for my pressure washer that has a funnel, into which I pour anti-freeze (or "pump saver", or RV antifreeze, or . . . ) - I typically use used coolant that I have drained out of one of my vehicles. At any rate, I fill up the funnel with this liquid, and then use the engine starter pull cord to slowly rotate the engine over several times such that each piston in the washer pump has cycled at least once so it is filled with the antifreeze solution. I watch the discharge to see when the color changes from clear to whatever color the antifreeze is that you are using.

 

[MarlynOC]

After you remove the stale fuel put in a dash of Startron fuel additive(blue bottle) and let it mix with new gas before you try to start it. It may dissolve some built up gum in the fuel system. Be sure there is oil in the pw unit. Be sure water is hooked to the pump inlet. if you put a discharge hose on it be sure to release all pressure as you start it. What type pump is it?

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Make sure you drain the wand too. Open the trigger and hold it vertically both ways.

 

[No Sweat Photos]

Never run bleach or chlorine though a pressure washer pump !! It eats the rubber seals in the pump and hose.

 

[Monza Harry]

I noticed that no one mentioned a squirt of oil/WD40 in the spark plug hole before turning the engine over. Oil if doing other checks first, WD40 if you are going to try pulling pretty much right away (WD40 does burn and is a lubricant(ish) where oil will not likely fire immediately). As for winterizing a squirt of oil in the spark hole for bore/rings protection. That pump protection product listed above, seems like a good choice, I've used a hose with a squirt of oil and some RV anti freeze in mine for winter storage, on top of the typical empty the fuel/run dry, top up oil/s etc. Harry