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Interior receptacle for RV?

Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
Detached garage with height and room for a modest RV. Ran 3/4 conduit to some large boxes in the walls but left the wiring out for future use. Probably should have just done the one for RV but didn't... Now am looking to put in for RV. I can see two uses - plug in the RV when it is inside. Wouldn't be running AC or using much in that case. Other use would be an RV outside - possibly someone visiting so could be full load. I could do a full RV box but that seems like overkill. I already have plenty of 15A receptacles on 20A circuits. Thinking a 50A receptacle would be good and fit in an existing box. A 50 to 30 adapter cord could be used for RV with 30A plugs. So I need a 50A breaker (panel is homeline). GFCI? GFCI may not required by code revision we are on here but seems like a good idea. From a quick look I need 6 AWG copper for this? Have done that before with 2 90s in 3/4 PVC conduit and it was a somewhat difficult pull. I have one box that is a straight run from the breaker box so that's a possibility. A lot shorter run too but not quite as good of location - for the little use I expect that shouldn't be an issue. How long of cords to most RV folks use? I realize they come in various lengths - just wondering what length would cover most hookups for about a 20' van. Anything else I might be overlooking?
 
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zmotorsports

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Sounds very similar to what I did when I built my shop with RV bay. I have two 50-amp receptacles in my RV storage bay. One near the middle on the wall which is for my own coach to be plugged in to and one at the door opening for use as a "buddy plug" for when friends visit. I chose to keep the receptacles inside the building rather than on the exterior to keep the aesthetics of the outside clean and clutter free of receptacles in the brick work. When we have friends stay I have a short cord (10') that I plug into the receptacle and then drape it outside of the large rollup door for our friends to plug their coach in to. This way when they depart and the wife and I are at work they can merely disconnect and leave the cord in place and I roll it up and put it away when I arrive home from work. This has worked well on multiple occasions when our friends leave later in the morning after the wife and I have gone to work and they don't have to feel rushed nor the wife and I need to stay behind and lock up after they leave.

I have the receptacles on separate breakers so friends can run all of their A/C units without worry of tripping a breaker and if needs be I can as well, although inside I haven't done so yet. I have however, run my electric element of the Aqua-Hot unit a night or two before departing for a trip so that the interior of the coach is comfortable and up to temperature before pulling out of the shop but that is not very often as the shop keeps the coach comfortable all but the coldest months and in the summer even with triple digits outside, the interior of the RV bay, and therefore the RV, are generally in the low 80's so we don't fire up the A/C unit(s) until we pull it outside and are hooking up the Jeep to depart. I also placed a 50-amp welding receptacle at a similar location in the shop side of the building in which I can use for welding just outside of the door but also I can use it as a secondary "buddy plug" for when multiple friends visit and stay with us. So far in the past 6 years of living here and having our shop we have only had 2 coaches backed in the back yard one time and had plenty of power for our guests in the middle of summer with their A/C's running.

As for RV electrical cords, most of the larger coaches that require 50-amp service will have either 35' or 50' power cables for shore power.
 

alfredeneuman

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Fullerton, CA
From a quick look I need 6 AWG copper for this?
If in conduit #8 is sufficient. #6 is only necessary for Romex or UF cable (different temp ratings. 60 vs 75 degrees)
GFCI may not required by code revision we are on here but seems like a good idea.
All of the GFIs should already be in the RV (unless it's older than the rule)
GFI on the 50 would only protect the cord to the RV in that case.
 
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Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
Looks like I could use #6 AL XHHW although the cost savings isn't as much as I expected. wireandcableyourway #6 AL is $0.59/ft and #8 Cu is $0.67/ft. If I go with the short run I may even have enough left overs around for that.
 

mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
Looks like I could use #6 AL XHHW although the cost savings isn't as much as I expected. wireandcableyourway #6 AL is $0.59/ft and #8 Cu is $0.67/ft. If I go with the short run I may even have enough left overs around for that.
For that price difference, I would run copper to use smaller wires
 
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alfredeneuman

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Looks like I could use #6 AL XHHW although the cost savings isn't as much as I expected. wireandcableyourway #6 AL is $0.59/ft and #8 Cu is $0.67/ft. If I go with the short run I may even have enough left overs around for that.
For reference, the #6 Copper you wanted to run is $1.06/ft.
 

Ole Slewfoot

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Freedom, CA
Wlth a 20' van, you probably won't have a problem, but I've seen a lot of the 30a cords fuse to the receptacle. I'd definitely set up with the 50a plug, and a short stepdown adapter that won't hurt to leave behind if push comes to shove.
 
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Innovate1

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Illinois near St. Louis, Missouri
If I can use standard length roll I can get 100' of #8 Cu THHN for almost the same price locally at the big box stores and without shipping. Wondering what the the local electric supplies will be if I need an odd length. At the big box stores #6 NM-B looks to be over twice as much (accounting for the multiple strands of wire to be equivalent)so glad I put in conduit.
 

sparky 1971

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Central Iowa
No electrical supply houses are likely to cut #8 to length.
The supply house I use more frequently than other does, and still charges the same $ per foot vs buying it by the 500' spool. I'm guessing the others do to since it seems to be a game of follow the leader. It's been probably three years since I bought a 500' spool of #8 or #6 when a short length was needed. I save the big spools for the longer lengths and don't want to kill them by pulling 50-60 feet off at a time causing me to have to buy another sooner than later.
 
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