You’ll probably have a hard time making that transition with a single fitting. I’ve never seen that fitting but someone probably makes one. I believe those 1/4 turn hose bibs must be of a ball valve type design. That’s what I would use. Nibco make a pretty good valve at a reasonable cost. (I think you’re old valves might be Nibco)
I also found these on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081515JPR/?tag=atomicindus08-20
That is what I replaced the hot and cold water valves with when we got our new washing machine, but I soldered mine to two 90 degree drop ears so that could mount the valve to a board. I got mine at Home Depot. I also bought two ball valve "Y" connections so that I could run the water to both the washing machine and our utility sink. You could also get two Sharkbite ball valves for this, and not have to solder anything. Just push them on and your good to go. The Sharkbite valves were about $11.00 each. I posted a picture of my washing machine valve, and a screen grab of the Sharkbite valve from Home Depot. Jim
Yes, that’s exactly what you’d need to screw into a 1/2” threaded ball valve. It wouldn’t be my first choice though. Fewer joints mean less exposure to leaks, even though threaded brass to brass is a very reliable joint it’s neither the easiest, most cost effective, or highest quality way to go. Unless you already have a couple of 1/2 threaded ball valves, then yeah, it’s probably what I’d do.
I will agree that using Sharkbite fittings behind walls for water connections is never a good idea. But in exposed areas, such as in a basement, they are easy to install, and they can be quickly monitored for leaks. If installed correctly, they last for a long time. I have seen some that are now closing in on 15 years old that are still holding up. Jim
If you haven't soldered before, I would solder on a slip x mip or fpt fitting then thread on the valve. You can solder on a slip fitting valve. However, the valve body ***** up a lot of heat and you may damage the seals inside of the valve body getting it hot enough to accept the solder. Sweating on a fitting is much, much easier. Plus if you ever want to replace it again you can just unthread the valve and thread a new one on.
I used one of these for my washing machines. Replaced a multiturn valve. I could only find this online at the time I was planning the replacement. I can't tell if the OP has the 5/8 OD copper pipe though.
I had this happen on my oil tank shutoff when I replaced my furnace. Of course the tank was
I have Shark Bite fittings that have been in place for 20+ years with no problems.
That’s awesome (and I mean it), but you have what, a half dozen? A hundred or two at most? I’ve worked in the plumbing & Mech industry 40+ years and have seen three (unexplained) SB failures. One did over $3MM in damages There’s no way I’d have one inside any property of mine nor would I, in good conscience, tell someone they are “okay”. Maybe you’d have had to have been there
I don’t have many Shark Bite fittings; maybe about a dozen, possibly two dozen, mostly on flex lines for Water Heaters or buried underground on supply lines.That’s awesome (and I mean it), but you have what, a half dozen? A hundred or two at most? I’ve worked in the plumbing & Mech industry 40+ years and have seen three (unexplained) SB failures. One did over $3MM in damages There’s no way I’d have one inside any property of mine nor would I, in good conscience, tell someone they are “okay”. Maybe you’d have had to have been there
As a bandaid until a suitable repair can be made, sure.
There are too many less expensive and so much better alternatives.
I’m good with them outdoors UG. I know a lot of utility companies use them. I’d probably be okay in select places indoors where they were bound by the configuration of the piping as to be less likely to blow apart. My point was that a dozen is a relatively small sample. How many “blowouts” are acceptable? One in 10K? One in 100K? None are acceptable in my house, so I wouldn’t think any differently about someone else’s.
