the wright grip and fd+ were not surprising, the standard snap on and SK were surprises. i also thought it was cool the hardness comparison between the snap on and wright. the snap on was so hard it was "brittle" where the wright had just enough flex to get the bolt loose without breaking. good...
i have metric and standard gear wrench flexs, both sets are sloppy/floppy messes, will be getting replaced shortly but they dont get used often so they are lower priority.
you dont need the socket, and you dont need to take the strut bolt out. ive done brakes a bunch of times without. cant recall exactly how i got the bolt out but it was nothing so extraordinary that it stands out.
jeez, when i was in highschool (15yrs ago) i worked in a body shop as a helper. the lead guy and myself never wore anything more than these things (and probably worn out ones too). guess i got loaded up pretty good with chemicals. never felt anything weird though
the one time i bought from palmac, shipping was extremely fast, i ended up needing to return an item and it was easy.
tip, add the item to your cart act as if you are going to check out (enter all your info) and then let it sit. they will likely email you a coupon for a discount within 24hrs.
Anyone with a 2 post lift ever re-torque the anchor bolts? This lift has been install for 5yrs by a Mohawk rep I've never touched the bolts. I'm sure this is a question for the rep. But curious how everyone else feels, or do you just cross your fingers like me .
It's a 1992 model year 9k...
no tangible evidence but i just recently switch from L type connectors to V type and there was a noticble improvement in power and speed in all my air tools.
rather than upgrading just for the sake of upgrading, have you considered keeping what you have and adding some snap on semi deep sockets? i grab them more than i do deep or shallow, they just seem perfect for all situations. cant comment on koken sockets since i only have 1 but i have loads of...
i went from a krl722 to a krl1022 (54x24 to 54x29) and that was a big difference. it was almost 1/3 more space. look up the sq/in storage capacity of your model and go from there. a 29in deep krl has roughly the same capacity as 73in classic (depending on the drawer layouts of each)
i had 200k on 15yr old GM sensors. just replaced them this year.
i wouldnt bother with the tool, unless you have the means to change the sensors yourself i just dont see the point.
its definitely off. you should never store a torque wrench with any load on it. always set it to zero. but as mentioned its probably fine for lug nuts. then again ive never broken a stud or lost and wheel and have never used a torque wrench on lugs, but thats another argument for a different thread.
Extra long snap on 1/4 converted to 3/8 with a snap on flex Socket. I don't like the universal joint ones they seem to wind up on themselves when you apply torque at angles. The ball and pin style seem to work alot better for me.