Recent content by 1967 R502

Selling off a bunch of machines and parts. Great if you have some restoration projects that need bits. Price for everything is $100. Located in NJ outside NYC. No shipping. 10in craftsman table saw. No knobs or fence rail. Broken fence. Has an extension wing 18” craftsman king-seeley scroll...

Here is an update: Last night I ran over the third ring with a brake cylinder bore hone as suggested. This is not as easy as it may seem, because the drill press bore is not a continuous cylinder, it’s just a thin ring, so the bore hone tends to get caught up on the edges. It is also...

I may do that. Tonight was a night of experimentation. 1. I cleaned the bores again with acetone. 2. Then I “painted” the old quill with magic marker. The idea being that I would cycle it through a bunch of times and see where it wore off. 3. Indeed there was a hot spot at about 10 o clock...

To answer the questions. 1. The black feed stop is “stock”. Or at least, It was the color that came with the drill, so I just gave it a repaint. There appears to be no issues with it or the depth gauge. 2. As is stated above, the interior passages appear clear of paint. 3. The feed teeth are...

This is a great thread and I have read through it many times, but have not seen anything relating to the issue I am having. I am restoring a craftsman 100 drill press. After almost completing it, I found the spindle to have an in large amount of run out, and indeed no amount of finessing the...

1. I'd check out the manuals on Vintage Machinery, if you haven't already done so. 2. Look at both 15 and 13.5" drill manuals. They all have part lists. 3. Are the spindle parts the SAME NUMBER? What about the pulley assembly? 4. If they are, I'd say you are probably OK, there is just some...

Hi Jim- I'd be curious as to how much runout you were experiencing at the taper? Is .006" within your experience? My drill was in very good shape, but obviously used consistently by first a father and later a son, both of whom were professional carpenters. They took good care of it. It had been...

Thanks. The quill lock is already engaged as you can see in the picture above. So all measurements are made that way. Not sure what you mean about metal retaining compound. Gluing a strip of metal to the inside of the quill seem likely to far exceed the .006 (really .003 as it is a circle)...

I’ve tried that with the chuck. No difference.

I’m not sure how you’d shim the quill opening in the head. I would imagine you’d have to strip the head, Hard chrome the opening and the grind it to spec on mill. If you know of some other way to fasten in a .004” ringed shim, please let me know. The common solution is to put a vertical cut...

They bearings are not tapered. All ball bearings. The spindle isn’t bent. Unless it got bent after reinstalling . I am more concerned that the quill has enlarged the opening in the head over the years and there is no way to adjust for this as in later drills. At least none that I know of.

When I say taper, yes, the chuck is off. As noted, I am using a drill bit. It can be seen in the photo. I don’t have a precision dowel. Chuck is fine. No burrs. Tightened on all 3 holes

Perhaps, but is the .006” runout at the quill acceptable? It seems like a lot to me.

So I’m wrapping up a restoration on a 1949 craftsman 100 drill press. There seems to be quite a bit of run out. ~.006” measured at the spindle taper and ~.02 measured at the bit. Either of these measurements seem to be too much to me. 1. Are my expectations too high? 2. If this is in fact too...

I am restoring an Atlas 42b Drill press. The top plain bronze sleeve bearing was fairly gouged up, so I want to replace it. Length is 1in ID is .8in OD is 1.19in (Call it 1.2in) Material is silicon bronze, of course. McMaster Carr has nothing which matches these dimensions. Anyone know where...