Recent content by Adventure_Remi

Out of curiosity, do you have this set up with a unique SSID (wifi name) or is it set up as an access point that matches your home wifi?

Interesting, I tried searching for amendments in OH adoptions of NEC and did see anything specifically about wire size. I'll have to ask my inspector Only reference I found regarding this is for attached garages and the wall(s) that have interior habitable space on the other side, but I will...

I'm in the home stretch of getting my 24x32x10 post frame dried in so I've started planning the electrical layout/wiring. I've subbed out having my meter service upgraded to 200A with 100A service/sub panel installed in the post frame but I plan to self perform the remaining electrical. I'm...

Single 9x8 garage door is rated R6.3. Slab has poly under, but it is uninsulated Based on the chart for my climate zone, R-5 exterior + R13 wall cavity would be good, and I shouldn't use poly interior? Planning on using latex painted OSB.

Correct, soffit and ridge vented attic with poly between ceiling material (drywall or OSB) and blow-in cellulous insulation

10 foot wall. Current plan is to do 1/2 OSB Painted walls and ceiling, although I am considering doing a 3' waiscott in steel on the bottom to match the exterior.

Is there an alternative to plastic (class I) that falls into class II (which is what faced batts are rated) that I could consider using?

Ideal world, yes... but most likely it sit unconditioned most of the time, and only heated in the winter on an as needed basis. Cooling would just be windows and fans. Would probably be worth considering a dehumidifier full time when sitting unused?

Reviewing https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/building-science-insights-newsletters/bsi-026-they-all-laughed it seems like figure 5 most closely resembles my assemble and this jumps out at me: "Easy, replace the 6 mil polyethylene with a kraft faced fiberglass batt and keep the R-5 vapor...

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According to the spec sheet 1" XPS has a perm rating of 1.5, but water vapor permeance decreases as thickness increases and I can't find the specific number for 1.5" XPS. Assuming 1.5" XPS has 50% (~.75 perm) less permeance I would think it would fall into a Class II – Low permeability vapor...

I don't think we're supposed to use the "r" word anymore either :ROFLMAO:. I appreciate the clarification in terminology

I used 1.5 inch Owens Corning FOAMULAR extruded polystyrene (XPS) insulation. I wondered if I needed unfaced batts with the plastic (I've seen people use both)

I've considered finishing the interior with this method as well, but still leaves the question if my rigid foam is considered a vapor barrier and adding the plastic sheeting to the interior creates a 2nd vapor barrier which means any moisture that makes it into the wall cavity would be trapped?

I'm in the process of constructing a 24x32x10 (768 sqft) post frame kit in SW Ohio and thinking ahead to finishing out the interior, specifically the location of my vapor barrier. I've installed 1.5" rigid foam board between the girts and added KC Block-it housewrap. My understanding is that...