Recent content by agdodge4x4

Thanks everyone! I will be picking one up!

You know hate I hate more than the way they bleed down in 30 seconds? That fact that there is no good descent control. Once you lock it to use it, it just kind of 'gives' and releases all at once when you let it down. Again, it *****. The Daytona SD models let you ease it down. Very slick.

Well, I'm kinda brain dead from doing all four struts in my expedition today, I'm kinda whooped...but I did mean what I said. I need a GOOD THIRD jack....The big reds are headed to the scrap yard, more expensive to fix. Ain't nobody got time fo dat.

I have 5 jacks. Two Torin Big red 3 ton jobs, one torin small trolley jack, and two Daytona Super Duty from HF. The HF ones are probably the best jack I have ever used in 40 years and that includes some in my past that were over 1000. Hands down the best. My other three Torin are humongous...

I found a KRA5319 but not sure how beefy it is compared to my KRL. MY friction slide KRA boxes are pretty stout. The 5319 is a newer generation though.

Thanks! I almost bought a like new Mac Tech 1000 for 900, but the 25” is just too much with the drawer open all the way and I know I’ll have to dig something out. Plenty of time for another one that size but for now need a 20.

I have a couple of snap on boxes and a cheap Matco. My snap on is 29” deep. But, I need one that is 20” deep. Are there any particular series or numbers that are built like my KRl1001 but only 20” deep? I have a very specific location it needs to fit and 25-30” deep isn’t happening. I’m...

Final update: On the BOX SIDE RAIL - I took a cut off wheel, taped the hole where the 'tab' is to prevent debris from getting in, and i simple scored the tab so that when it was bent with pliers, the 'hinge' side of it was thin and did not deform the rail metal. It also served to make it...

Yes. I agree. So what did was use a metal shaping hammer with a small head as an anvil in my vice. The I placed the rail over the hammer so it sat flush and flat on the head. Then I used small hammer to hit just the metal tab back flat with the rest of the rail. Snap on says for the box side...

Yes, I agree. But you only need a hole to accomodate the tab. OR I could just grind the tab off. Smashing the tab down would be best, and I can do that on the drawer rail because there is access. But not on the box side slide. It's covered by inside slide so might just grind it off. I am...

interesting. Thanks for the insight. Didn’t realize until now but that tab will need to be ground off or the box modified on both drawer AND box. For the slides, I can smash the drawer slide flat but you can’t do that with the box side so guess grinding it off is the way to go. Neither option...

Replaced all the slides on my krl1001 box. Unfortunately, the old ones are discontinued and there is a new number for these slides. The current slides are 8-05388ALRMS. Everything fits fine except the rail that goes on the drawers themselves. When you install it, the new slides have a tab that...

I usually buy just whatever I can that’s cheap. I call it brake cleaner or carb cleaner. Anyway, there was one I used to get that was a lot safer for plastics and rubbers. If I recall, it was more oily than the carb cleaner I have now that evaporates nearly instantly and is very very hard on...

Good news, Snap On just replaced the broken slides and I was able to build up the ones that were worn down with my MIG welder and some careful shaping. I could have gotten them to replace others, but I didn't feel it was right unless they were truly broken. I appreciate the warranty and I...

Front set screws.