Making new slides work on old KRL1001 box?

[agdodge4x4]

Replaced all the slides on my krl1001 box. Unfortunately, the old ones are discontinued and there is a new number for these slides. The current slides are 8-05388ALRMS.

Everything fits fine except the rail that goes on the drawers themselves. When you install it, the new slides have a tab that goes into a drawer slot. My drawers don’t have this slot.

So, the rails and drawer get a bow when you install them.

I have confirmed with snap on that these are the right slides. So my options are to leave it all bowed, or cut a slot in the drawer, or pound the tab flat on the rail. I attached pic of the issue looking down.

What’s the best way to correct this? I guess I could grind the tab down on the rail and that would solve the problem as well. I tested on by placing an anvil of an adequate width under the slide and simply smashing down the tab. Seems to work OK.

 

[Wamsutta]

This video shows the new type slides. If your box doesn't have the special slots in the inside wall and in the drawers for the "claw thing" , then you gotta grind the claw thing off the slides. I wish I knew the proper name for the thing. The regular tabs are called "bayonets". The rectangular slots in the inner wall and the drawers are called bayonet slots. The older boxes had bayonets on the slides and that's it. No claw thing that requires the special pry bar they show in the video.

 

[The Cobbler]

either cut off the tab on the slides or cut a notch in the box. second may be a better option to keep swarf out of the slides from cutting

 

[RTM]

second may be a better option to keep swarf out of the slides from cutting

And supports the middle of the drawer when you overload the heck out of it.

 

[agdodge4x4]

interesting. Thanks for the insight. Didn’t realize until now but that tab will need to be ground off or the box modified on both drawer AND box.

For the slides, I can smash the drawer slide flat but you can’t do that with the box side so guess grinding it off is the way to go. Neither option affects the weight concern. Tha tab isn’t oriented for that.

How would you modify the box and cut a slot for the tab? An oversized drill bit will accommodate it but won’t be pretty. Ideas?

 

[Wamsutta]

How would you modify the box and cut a slot for the tab? An oversized drill bit will accommodate it but won’t be pretty. Ideas?

You'd be much better off forgetting about that idea. Those sheet metal panels are all punched out before the box is assembled.

 

[agdodge4x4]

You'd be much better off forgetting about that idea. Those sheet metal panels are all punched out before the box is assembled.

Yes, I agree. But you only need a hole to accomodate the tab. OR I could just grind the tab off. Smashing the tab down would be best, and I can do that on the drawer rail because there is access. But not on the box side slide. It's covered by inside slide so might just grind it off. I am waiting for a call from Snap On Product Specialist to see if they have insight to making the warranty slides fit without distorting the box and drawer, but those are about the only options outside of finding a case of original slides. LOL.

No big deal either way, I enjoy a problem solving challenge.

 

[RTM]

Could be an excuse to buy a rectangular punch for your Whitney Roper 5jr.

 

[The Cobbler]

Smashing the tab down would be best

I'd be cautious "smashing " them , very likely will ****** up the operation if your new slides

 

[agdodge4x4]

I'd be cautious "smashing " them , very likely will ****** up the operation if your new slides

Yes. I agree. So what did was use a metal shaping hammer with a small head as an anvil in my vice. The I placed the rail over the hammer so it sat flush and flat on the head. Then I used small hammer to hit just the metal tab back flat with the rest of the rail.

Snap on says for the box side you must “break off” the tab to make it work on the box. That is easier said than done so we’ll see. I’ll test it out.

 

[agdodge4x4]

Final update: On the BOX SIDE RAIL - I took a cut off wheel, taped the hole where the 'tab' is to prevent debris from getting in, and i simple scored the tab so that when it was bent with pliers, the 'hinge' side of it was thin and did not deform the rail metal. It also served to make it easier to break off AND makes a clean flush break. The rails will still snap in on the box and now sit adequately flat/flush.





The DRAWER SIDE RAIL requires similar treatment. You can grind and break as per the method above, or you can press it flat. Personally, I pressed it down. Not enough room to get my little plier in to grab it.





Then you will simply re-use your retention screw and thread that into the existing hole. It should self tap, if it does not or you strip out your screw, the screw you need is a 8-32x1/4" long. Try to locate something with a 'serrated flange head' to make it 'stick' when you tighten it up. SNUG THEM UP, DO NOT FORCE THEM LIKE YOU ARE TIGHTENING A LUG NUT.


For the tool box itself, those retention screws are self tappers and a #6x3/8. You can go to #7x3/8 if you strip out a hole. On mine, someone had gone all the way to a #8 on one, but with the new slides, you cannot get a #8 screw head in the slot. So, I had to build a washer that essentially went behin the sheet metal.









Then, just press your tab toward the outside edge of the box to clear the ROLL N LOCK system. It works like a champ.

Hope this helps someone out because I wasn't sure how to fix a few things on this box, but this works and frankly, the metal vice grip/metal thing is stronger than the original design.