Recent content by alfazer

I'm guessing any Whitworth sockets I've ever seen were always 12 point because they will drive both a hex or a square head bolt. Square head were common on screws with a Whitworth thread. Old british machines often had both square and hex Whitworth screws on the same machine.

I've had Toyota cars, Honda, Suzuki and Yamaha motorcycles from the 70's on, and they always had the correct JIS screwdriver supplied in the tool roll. Yet most folks would use a Phillips screwdriver on them.

These make the job easy... https://www.sealey.co.uk/product/5637954589/wheeleazyt-wheel-fitting-alignment-tool

I have two Metabo angle grinders, a 5" and a 9", both from the early/mid 90's, both running perfectly. The 9" had has done some pretty heavy cutting over the years on both steel and concrete.

I'm not sure, but in my head the table needs to be slightly more rigid than the lathe bed so the adjusting the screws will twist the bed. A reason you might level the legs could be to help coolant drain, or just having the satisfaction of knowing it's level, even though it's not that important...

If you want your lathe to be really accurate you are best to have a bench with a heavy top to attach the lathe to. If you turn a test piece to check for parallel accuracy and you find it running off a few thou, then you can "level" the bed by adjusting these screws, ideally with an adjusting...

I use one of these automatic types that presses shut against a stud fitted on the door frame, then springs up away from the floor when you open the door. It means you can eliminate most of the gap and it stays that way, because the seal doesn't drag on the floor and wear away. I think this a UK...

Plan for solar and storage batteries.

Nothing useful to add, but this thread reminds me of Rocky Balboa using a refrigerated meat locker for a gym.

I think the sliding T-bar says W-Germany, and not Germany.

Doesn't matter so much if using a machine blade but traditionally if using a handsaw you would cut nearly up to the line, then plane, chisel, sand right to the line. Or file to scribed line, if it's metal. This also works if cutting curved lines with say, a fret saw, then you might want to sand...

You could probably find a 21mm crowsfoot. Then google "torque calculation for crowsfoot".

I love the Vessel JIS. But remember that little double-ended screwdriver that came in the toolkit of Japanese cars and motorcycles in the 80's? Actually worked pretty well because it was JIS.

I like the look of this set because they have split dies, giving you a slight adjustment when making threads. Personally I wouldn't buy a set that didn't have the split dies. And you won't get the split on a hex die.

Iroko is a good teak alternative, or often sold as teak.