The 2 major LV lighting controls (in the '50s and '60s) were Touch Plate and GE.
They're still in business and their relays never changed.
They have different methods of operation.
Touch Plate has latching relays with a 2 wire control (push on / push off). GE has a 3 wire control with separate...
An IBEW contest was held a while ago, and there was one section on torquing without a wrench (guessing) to a certain value. There were 100 entrants (All journeymen with over 15 yrs experience).
5 were right on the money, 10 were too loose, the other 90 were too tight.
Use one of these to "unrecess" the receptacle.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Gang-Metallic-Weatherproof-Outlet-Box-Extension-Ring-with-4-1-2-in-Holes-Gray-WSE450G/300845915
The "flip lid" covers haven't been compliant for years.
There are many different brands, voltage, and amp ratings of pin and sleeve recps. and plugs all with different part numbers. If you google "pin and sleeve receptacles" you'll get the horsepower ratings of each.
Any switching device between the VFD and the motor will, when under load, will do damage to the VFD's output transistors. This will greatly decrease the life of the VFD.
Make sure the equipment isn't running when you throw the switch (except in an emergency)
Even the largest regular NEMA receptacle is only rated 3.5 HP (NEMA 14-60). It has the liquidtight flex for a reason. It should be hardwired or a pin and sleeve receptacle and plug (Prohibitively expensive) should be used.
Your electrician is a hack
I just generally torque anything #4 or larger.
Sometimes the inspection dept. ask for "Torque letter" and you'd have to torque every connection in the panel. One inspector with way too much time on his hands even told me not land the wiring to the branch breakers, then watched me while a...