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The 2 major LV lighting controls (in the '50s and '60s) were Touch Plate and GE. They're still in business and their relays never changed. They have different methods of operation. Touch Plate has latching relays with a 2 wire control (push on / push off). GE has a 3 wire control with separate...

An IBEW contest was held a while ago, and there was one section on torquing without a wrench (guessing) to a certain value. There were 100 entrants (All journeymen with over 15 yrs experience). 5 were right on the money, 10 were too loose, the other 90 were too tight.

Bluedog, NASA chart? The manufacturers take all that info and more into account before publishing the torque values.

A piece of ductape over the holes would halt the wasp invasion.

Use one of these to "unrecess" the receptacle. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-1-Gang-Metallic-Weatherproof-Outlet-Box-Extension-Ring-with-4-1-2-in-Holes-Gray-WSE450G/300845915 The "flip lid" covers haven't been compliant for years.

mike931x Has nailed it and you can buy it online at their marketplace

I failed to see this....Sorry.

Why not hardwire them then and let the breakers be the required disconnects.

There are many different brands, voltage, and amp ratings of pin and sleeve recps. and plugs all with different part numbers. If you google "pin and sleeve receptacles" you'll get the horsepower ratings of each.

The panel only needs 30" of workspace side to side. It begins at the side furthest from the obstruction.

Any switching device between the VFD and the motor will, when under load, will do damage to the VFD's output transistors. This will greatly decrease the life of the VFD. Make sure the equipment isn't running when you throw the switch (except in an emergency)

Even the largest regular NEMA receptacle is only rated 3.5 HP (NEMA 14-60). It has the liquidtight flex for a reason. It should be hardwired or a pin and sleeve receptacle and plug (Prohibitively expensive) should be used. Your electrician is a hack

I suggest contacting the manufacturer (GE) and explaining the issue to them.

I just generally torque anything #4 or larger. Sometimes the inspection dept. ask for "Torque letter" and you'd have to torque every connection in the panel. One inspector with way too much time on his hands even told me not land the wiring to the branch breakers, then watched me while a...

The conduit size can't be relied on to tell the size of the service wire. The Utilities oversize the conduits so it's easier to pull in and out.

Just a heads up>>>>> A 3 light combination recp tester/GFI tester wouldn't trip the GFI outlet when used to protect downstream outlets without a ground wire (it shunts the hot wire to the ground wire)

You could use flexible metal conduit in the walls, and switch to surface mounted EMT, with these, for an easier (and neater installation).>> https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-21-cu-in-Steel-Pre-Galvanized-Square-Box-Extension-Ring-531511234UB-25R-531511234UB-25R/206166716 It attaches to the...

ETL is a NRTL. https://www.intertek.com/product-certification-marks/etl-nrtl/

ЯU :) As far as I can tell from the literature it has a CE rating which, as Wiley said above, is not to be used in the US.

The IRC isn't applicable in CA. Neither is the IBC. CA prohibits local amendments to building codes except for "special conditions" and they require the State to issue prior approval of them. It's essentially the NEC verbatim.