Recent content by AntBru98

Not worried about cost, mainly worried about safety and not having to leave my basement window cracked year round. I'm starting to research combi units as previously suggested. That's beginning to sound like my best option here. Still open to other opinions 👍

I did pull the BTU ratings for both units - Burnham = 103,000 BTU or 20.6 sq inch of opening - OA Smith = 40,000 BTU or 8 sq inch of opening So i would need 29 sq inch of opening to properly provide air in. The 4" vent I installed is only yielding 12.6 sq inch, but still doesn't solve my zero...

My attic fan only pulls air in from the soffits. I made sure during my reno to install foam baffles on all exterior walls going up into the attic space. The house has a hip roof, so there is nothing obstructing the soffit venting. The only opening to my attic from inside is a (new) pull down...

The Red and Blue grommets on top of my water heater... they are both partially melted. I have no issue leaving the window cracked for the time being... just hoped the 4" fresh air vent I installed would have helped.

I cant do much about the chimney connection as it is bored through the foundation to the bottom of the chimney. So a fan in the can type system is what i needed installed all along?

im not a contractor... i did not do the install of either unit. I only installed the air vent into the room hoping that would help. When i crack the window in the laundry room all my issues go away immediately. That's what lead me to believe the room needed makeup air.

im at work and cannot walk downstairs at the moment... here is another pic i took a few years ago during my reno.

alright, ill take a look at those. What do i do about the 4" fresh air pipe I installed? and the vent to the bedroom?

Yes, they are both feeding into one flue pipe up and out. The Boiler is a Burnham ES25 model (2019)... I'm not totally sure if there is a powered vent on it. I know there is an electric damper on it that opens when it runs. Other than that I don't know.

What is everyone's opinion on eliminating the gas fired water heater and going over to a storage tank for the hot water and setting up my boiler to handle everything. This way ill only have one appliance down there running on gas.

Thank you for that feedback! I will pickup a low level Co2 detector right away and install. I've been told a "fan in a can" would help resolve my problems. I got several quotes for installation ranging from $1800 - $2500. As far as the grommets on the water heater, yes they are both...

I had a chimney guy come to check out everything with that. He said the liner looks almost brand new, totally open with no obstructions or debris inside at the bottom going into the mechanical area. When he disconnected the exhaust pipes from both the water heater and boiler there was a...

My entire house including the basement bedroom and mechanical room has hard wired smoke/co2 detectors that are all interlinked with one-another. I was thinking about taking away that vent in the wall as well. Thanks for the tip!

Hello, I've been dealing with a back drafting issue with both my gas water heater (year round) and boiler (winter use only). The mechanical area they are in is tight, but is directly off a 9'x9' laundry room. In the laundry area I have an awning window (roughly 28" x 12") that i find myself...