Recent content by aragno

if i correctly understand the GFCI wiring, I would need: - retain jacket 2 and 3 black wires in wire nut #2. - add a black jumper from wire nut #2 to Line Hot side of GFCI - retain jacket 2 and 3 white wires in wire nut #1 - add a white jumper from wire nut #1 to Line Neutral side of GFCI -...

With respect to the wiring, the CB is a fairly easy one, but I am struggling to figure out the wiring at my switches to put in the dead/blank face GFCI. I am a bit confused on how this will actually look at the end of the day and with which wires going where into wirenuts, jumpers, etc... this...

Does this make more sense? I revised the table a bit and I also re-tested. I removed wire nut #2 and separated the black wires. Jacket #4 had 0v with all switches off. Jacket #4 had 120v when the floodlight switch was "on" Jacket #5 always 0v (as expected since it goes to the floodlight it...

Everything is now reconnected and switches work independently to control ceiling light and floodlight. Let me know what we need to test (and how to do so) with the switches and I can do so. As before, goal is to determine if/how I can add a dead-face GFCI near the ceiling-outlet switch :)...

I applied power to Jacket #5 black and white from an extension cord on a separate circuit. The outdoor light turns "on"

The photos of the indoor suspended lights are from another commenter, not me :) With respect to Jacket 5 (in the ceiling), should I take both the white and the black and attach to an extension cord/known power or just the black only and leave the white?

I've updated the drawing to accurately reflect black wires on Outdoor-light switch. I had them backwards. I disconnected black from Jacket #1 and found: I checked voltage with the power off and on. With Power off, 0v on both black wires at the switch. With power on, 0v on the black wire going...

1) I don't definitely know that Jacket #1 is not the other end of Jacket #4. It seems that way but I can't tell. I don't have a long enough set of cables for my multi-meter to check continuity from one end to the other. 2) I am unsure how the floodlight is completely wired in and I tried to...

If replacing the existing breaker with a GFCI breaker, what will I need to do specifically in the breaker panel? It's clearly not just "install GFCI breaker" but I am guessing some sort of neutral wire has to be connected directly to the GFCI breaker. I am thinking I replace with the GFCI...

I really appreciate the feedback and apologies for the slow response- 3 kids keep us busy. I have measured voltage on both black wires. 120v on one, 0v on the other. Red is switched in the ceiling from the switch on the wall (2g box) See updated graphic below with "test" results. I've renamed...

Okay... finally got to this! in the ceiling junction box (where the outlet is installed) Black #1 with red wire to white/neutral = 120v Black #2 without red wire to white/neutral = 0v ** voltage is the same when the wall switch is "off" or "on" While the black wires are disconnected from each...

While doing this, do you want me to test anything at the switch, or not yet? After the kids go to bed, I'll head out to the garage to report back. I made this quick PDF of the wiring. Reference to "Jacket 1" in each diagram should not imply they are connected together, since we don't yet know...

They are both fairly far away from the breaker box and the outlet in the ceiling is fairly close to the wall switch. The breaker box is on the other side of the house. That breaker for the garage ceiling light/outlet also serves as the breaker for the utility room light and a dining room...

I've removed the cover and it is a two (2) gang box with a second switch operating an outdoor light. The switch on the left (red and black wires) is the switch controlling this new outlet. This is what I want to protect with a dead-face GFCI. Inside I find 3 white wires all connected together...

I think the GFCI test and reset have to be accessible from the floor and no equipment requires to access it. That’s why I was thinking to install it next to the switch. Based on the comment from @dscheidt it seems I need to open the switch and see if a neutral is present. I’m unsure what I’m...