Recent content by audioworks04

a 16in x 8ft shelf built out of 2x4 material should have no problem spanning the 8ft width with 500+lbs. I would use screws rather than nails to help keep from rotating, but either should be fine. I have 2x4 shelves built 2ft deep x 8ft and 1/2" plywood. long with well over 500lbs on them and...

I used an Insulfoam kit for my doors. They are styrofoam, but have a nice shiny plastic face. Kit is universal so you must cut to fit, but it is very easy, although messy with styrofoam balls floating around for weeks. My builder put un insulated doors in without my knowledge, I never even...

Pull the hose all the way out and clean the whole length of it. A little bit of build up can make a huge difference in a reel. As far as recommendations I have had good luck with my craftsman reel, still doesn’t like to go all the way in when it is cold though. Craftsman 9-16349 Hose Reel and...

Doesn’t seem like a good idea to me, but I can’t tell you why. What would be the benefit over a wire wheel? Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Started as a $100 striped camper frame with a good axle and straight frame. Added some floor braving,decked it and added lift arm specific spots on the frame to allow keeping the tires on. When I need use the lift I I lower the trailer, hook up to it with the truck or tractor and move it over a...

I agree with the previous post, likely you don’t have enough room to change the slopes much, you are still stuck with basically the same start and end elevations aswell as nearly the same length. Try and draw it as an elevation drawing. As of right now you have a 15% slope, if you could make it...

Typically 24in deep, but I would find the totes you plan to use and build to work with them. Height is typically near 24in shelf to shelf. I like to build my frames from 2x4 but me shelf runners out if 3/4” x 3/4” angle then set my 3/4in plywood shelf boards in the angle, this allows the most...

Bust most people don’t want to throw a steel pipe over their torque wrench where typically the bottom of the handle is your adjustment and has plastic parts. Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

It’s not really about torque as these styles of threaded anchors are locking in that they will not back themselves back out of the hole, unlike an expansion anchor where the nut can loosen over time. Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

16x24 isn’t overly large, could easily be placed with tracked concrete buggies, pump or belt are also options but plan on a $1200-$2000 fee. You’ll never regret a proper concrete floor, but you’ll always regret a rock floor. Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

Winched the pallet onto the tilt deck trailer. Then unbolted the pallet once home and unloaded once piece at a time. A single post was all 3 of us wanted to move, and it was more of a slide. Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

I’ve never seen the head shear in that fashion, but I bring in an industrial setting of the rack did ever fail the manufacture likely wouldn’t stand behind it if the base plate was anchored in anyway outside the plan. Might be worth a shot to try grind a slot in the top and try to break it...

It is become much more common as a lot of DIY people get a professional opinion and then run with their idea thinking they can be their own GC. Even in smaller markets a consulting fee is becoming common practice. Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

I do large scale commercial concrete and use 1/2 and 3/4in impacts and have installed thousands of 3/4in anchors that hold braces and pick points on 50tn concrete panels. You are likely using expansion style anchors, so if they fail due to the impact your hole or concrete is the fail point...

I use phenolic faces 3/4in concrete firm plywood or medium density overlay form ply. Both are used in concrete forming and have 7plys making them much stronger with a very durable top surface.