Recent content by badgerboiler

I design snow melting systems for residential and commercial. The car wash snow melting systems are usually hacked in and not maintained. The cost of operation is not significant (insulated or otherwise) if the control system is set up properly and condensing boilers are used instead of cheap...

When insulating a slab-on-grade structure the foundation type is the first question. Generally, the slab doesn't care if you protect it from frost by installing XPS insulation in, down or out. Online DIY radiant floor heating venders can be a good thing, if they provide a heat load analysis and...

You can't start to answer this question without a proper heat/cool load analysis. http://www.badgerboilerservice.com/images/SampleHeatLoadAnalysis.pdf Once you know the size of the equipment you will need to satisfy the heating and cooling loads in your shop, you can begin to consider the type...

Insulation is a conservative investment, with a guaranteed tax-free return on investment. If you radiate the floor in your garage, you will lower the heat load presented to the ceiling and your fuel bill at the same time.

You would not want to build insulation into a radiator. The reason concrete is a nearly perfect radiator is its density, with a R-value of about 1 per foot, it makes a great radiant panel. Keep it that way if you can, and insulate where you don't want heat to travel.

For a boiler or warm air furnace, you will need a professional to safely convert from NG to LP.

I installed a Mitsubishi heat pump in my own house (and soon in my own garage/office) and then for my customers. There is no equal.

I design radiant floor heating systems for a living.

The ceiling between garage and bonus room must be insulated to meet the energy code. The vehicles will give up considerable heat when cooling down in the garage. Leave them out in warm weather or crack the garage door at night. A mini-split heat pump should probably be added to most "bonus" rooms.

Professionals do not use bubble-foil "insulation" for anything. http://www.radiantpanelassociation.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=359 http://www.healthyheating.com/Page%2055/Page_55_o6_bldg_sys.htm I specify 2" of 2# foam for pole barns and fill with cellulose or fiberglass to spec.

A proper hydronic heating system is "closed" and oxygen free. Little will grow is such a system save some rare iron eating bacteria.

Radiant heating or not, foam goes under all and especially at the perimeter where most heat is lost. XPX is an effective vapor barrier but poly is still specified in some locals.

Find a professional to size the load using a Manual 'J' program for cooling and heating. He will need the all dimensions, of walls, floors, ceilings, doors, and their quality - insulation. The quality of garage doors - insulation and seals - can be a large factor in heating and cooling loads...

You don't need a van...but it makes good sense to have a relationship with a professional contractor experienced in radiant floor heating. He has resources available to him that the layman does not. Yes, if nothing else a professional heat load analysis performed by an experienced designer on...

Raspy is right...except for using his thumb for heat loads. I probably wouldn't do a heat load on all 756 homes either. :).