Recent content by Bigshow0003

HVACR1 hit the nail on the head. Although some love pellet stoves, there's alot of cost, maintenance, and storage that come along with it. We use one in a 4-season room. Per the stove manual I meet clearance requirements - but my insurance company wanted more. They told me they wanted 3' of...

I'm in northern WI near the MI UP. I have a 40x30x10 and use a 75K Modine Hot Dawg ceiling mounted. (A local contractor recommended I use a 60K, no more than a 75K). I kept my shop at 50 degrees all winter and bumped it up to 60-65 on occasion for projects. It didn't take long for the temp to...

I was originally thinking mesh system, but now reading comments here it appears many users state that a mesh system will get me wifi TO the shop, but not IN the shop (due to the steel structure). So I believe you are correct in that post 10 may be my best solution.

It's approximately 20' from the living room router to the exterior house wall closest to the shop. Then another 75' to the shop. Shop being a pole building - steel sides, steel roof, OSB interior wall with R19 insulation, and steel ceiling with 3" spray foam roof deck.

I've been following this thread closely as I want to add wifi to my shop as well. Apparently I'm a total novice because I'm constantly googling things from the thread that I have no idea what they mean... LAN, AP, Bridge, ubiquiti, cat5, etc etc. I read many comments that users are getting wifi...

According to the specs on Plyco's website, the door and frame are insulated to R13. I'm awaiting a call back from one of their engineers. But back to the original question - I probably shouldn't trim the door out this way, correct? Because the frost will soak into the trim, thus creating...

So it is a Plyco door. There is a stamp but it doesn't give R-value of the door anything. I pulled a couple screws out of the door frame, and some insulation came with them. Appears to be a spray foam type insulation inside, so the door frame is definitely insulated. Door seals/gaskets are good...

Yes, the heater is vented. Humidity level in the shop stays around 40%. I will check for the name plate/specs on the door.

Good questions - My building contractor knew the building was going to be finished on the inside and heated. Floor drain, insulated OH door, insulated slab, etc were all discussed knowing the building would be heated... but not discussed was the service door. Shame on me for that. I assumed...

The service door on my shop is a steel frame, steel door, 36". The building is heated at 50 degrees all winter. R19 walls covered by OSB and 3" spray foam on the roof deck. Modine Hot Dawg 75 Heater. As you'll see in the pics, during cold snaps the door ices up. I get a pretty good layer of...

I put two of those exact Menards fans in my 40x30x10. Things I don't like... -They aren't reversible -The controllers hum -The lowest setting, speed 1, is still whipping pretty good. -Fastest setting 5 is loud, and doesn't move a ton of air -Require one controller per one fan Pro's: -Super...

This has been discussed alot of this forum. Use the search function and you'll have days worth of reading. And there's tons of arguments about moisture in a steel building. Tons of insulation options too... Spray foam, Pole barn batts (pre cut to the size of your pole spacing, 8' x 10' for...

Well this is great news. Thanks for all the replies and suggested options. I have some homework to do but it helps having multiple to choose from. Thanks!

The more threads I read here, the more I feel like I don't have a lot of options. I have a 40x30x10. Insulated and heated in far northern WI. Walls are OSB painted semi-gloss white. Ceiling is Dura-panel, a popular ribbed steel liner panel sold at Menards. I have 8 light boxes currently...

Thanks for all the replies. One of my concerns was which bore should be the keypad. Based on the suggestions here, sounds like a keypad deadbolt (with the key slot) and a passage lever is a solid option. Thanks!