Recent content by BillC6

This is the brochure. This was made from 2x2 tube for the A-frame, 1x2 for the main rails and 1x1 for struts. The wall thickness was mostly 095 and the struts in tension were only 072.

Great thread. Attached are photos and a brochure of a trailer that is no longer available but had a good light weight structural design. I used one and the low bed was great compared to leaf spring trailers.

Basterds beat me again. I opened up the holes so the can/bottle spins with no effort and tried it again last night. They or it ate the rest of the peanut butter. This one was so waisted on peanut butter he fell the pool. I wanted him in the bucket not the pool. Tonight I am going to try the...

I built a bucket trap yesterday. It came, it ate and it left. What did I do wrong? Was the peanut butter to close to the edge? Do Florida mice have good balance?

The side handles are easily removed. Butting two boxes together and trying to span the entire width un-supported would be a problem, but if you had feet under the support structure, then why not? Thanks for the response. I think I am going to support them from below.

I am thinking of building a 2 unit workbench. I notice that everyone includes a spacer. Can I remove the side handle? Can I **** them together? Thanks Bill

Awesome work.

Thanks for the responses. I insulated the roof and will do the sides based on the AC performance. I hate to cut the front. One person who did said he would not do it again because with rain and the air pressure of highway driving drives water to find a path around the edge seals. I also...

yes, I store the trailer in my garage. Built the house with 8 foot tall doors and ordered the trailer with out a roof vent so it would fit. I have 1.5 inches to spare.

I am thinking of adding a portable AC unit to by trailer. I an thinking of drilling a hole in the floor for the intake, exhaust and drain. A few questions…. Has anyone done this? I read about 2 tube units that do not exhaust the interior air in the exhaust tube, seems better but I have not...

Frank, Thanks for the tip, I will have to do some fit checking. TMZ, yes it is the charger. It has no voltage and when I put 18v on the battery for a a few min that batteries work.

Thanks. The charger seems to be the 1st thing to go on these. I replaced the drill with a 19.2V unit a year ago but miss the flash light and wanted to try to salvage it. Bill

My 15.6V Craftsman drill and flashlight charger stopped working. At sears price it is not worth buying a new charger but I have plenty of DC converters. The charger is not labeled for voltage or current. Does anyone know the voltage and current ratting?

Thanks. That looks like more work then it is worth. I think I will either buy a 18V wall DC power supply and use a lamp timer to only run it for a set time or adapt the instructable and make a temp sensor control and use a relay to shut it down at a given temp.