Recent content by blint

Can anyone recommend a goggles manufacturer whose product accepts prescription lenses and is designed to fit snug on the forehead and temples and cheeks and nose, so that fine dust cannot reach the eyes and so that exhaled breath doesn't get in when you're wearing a mask? Something that...

I found this instructional video from Simpson. Interesting that it shows a truss with a tie-plate that uses common nails, not a gang-nail connector plate.

I have never built a roof, but your beams + dual-kingpost face-nailed to the chords + plywood gussets nailed to top-chords and the bottom chord looks plenty sturdy to me. Do you have two pieces of 3/4 plywood at each gusset, so that each truss has a total of eight pieces of plywood?

I accept the warning that it's easy to screw up installation of the connector plates. Plywood gusset plates are Plan B.

All members are 2x6. Bottom chord extends out past the walls ~16 inches either side and has been cut to accommodate top chords intersecting at 22.5 degrees, sort of like this picture on the box of Simpson truss screws, except that my chords meet outside the wall not directly above the top...

I actually watched that video a few days ago but couldn't see much more than the bottle jack. It gave me confidence that a 20-ton jack would do, but the contraption that holds everything in place is where I'm flying by the seat of my pants. I don't know if four 5/8 threaded rods is enough to...

I don't follow. The 2x4 would be horizontal resting on the top plate extending out past the wall, so that the roof changes slope from 5/12 to flat roof when it reaches the 2x4?

The bottom tip of a top-plate-resting rafter is too low at 5/12 pitch when it is extended as far out from the wall as I want the overhang to be, and there's a local code restriction --- max height at top plate is 9'. Max roof height 13'.

I tend to take a belt-and-suspenders approach when I'm DIYing. On my bathroom remodel, I used 2x6 Glu-lams to frame out the shower wall. It's sturdy :-) I plan on pressing actual truss plates (not the ones stamped "NOT FOR TRUSSES") and reinforce the truss with nailed, crown-stapled, screwed...

Yes, a raised top plate like that would have been another way of solving the problem....almost. My overhang is more extreme.

A truss does solve the specific problem of the overhang. It just brings the complexity of the connector plate pressing. The wood is all bought and cut. The issue in front of me now is how to make a decent plate-press that doesn't have me making a jackhammering sound for several days running...

Because I'm extending the bottom chord of the truss out about 16 inches on each side to get some overhang. With a 5:12 slope and rafters that connect with a birdsmouth at the top plate, the ends of the rafters would be much too low, with the amount of overhang I wanted.

But I wanted a fairly generous overhang, and with the height limitations on outbuildings in my town, trusses were the solution to keep the bottoms of the rafters at a height where tall people wouldn't be hitting their head on them.

Tried it. Harder than it looks, and I'm trying to avoid the noise.

It's an 8x20 shed with a gable roof with 5/12 pitch using 2x6 trusses in the most rudimentary king-post triangle, no web, set on ~20" centers. But I wanted the roof to have a decent amount of overhang, but it is height restricted by code (small town with limits on outbuilding placement, square...