Recent content by bmarshall1

Thanks Slewfoot, I'll give it a look. By chance do you know if the threads are somewhat universal?

I have one of the Harbor Freight auto body stud welders (which I can highly recommend, being the first time I have ever used one). I am using it to fix my Miata race car which has very thin sheet metal. The one issue I have is once done pulling the stud, the roller lock on the slide hammer will...

Thanks All. If you see my other post about the leaking cylinders, I have to pull them out so the lift will be in-op until they are fixed. Once the cylinders are out I will dig into the latch mechanism, I was hoping someone would be able to pinpoint the exact issue, but Internet Diagnosis can...

I have an older Ben Pearson LAS7, once the lift is raised off the locks, each side has a 'L' shaped lever that get pulled to release the locks. As long as the lift is lowered (with the lever pulled) the latch/locks stay unlocked, but if I were to raise the lift, something causes the latches to...

@nadagail - thanks, I received the info you had sent. Well... yesterday was a disappointing day. I went to work in the car a bit and spent more time working on the lift. What used to be a small amount of leakage turned out to now be stream of fluid shooting out. Since the bolts in the upper...

@brownbagg - sorry for the confusion. One of the cylinders is blue, the other yellow. I can't see any reason they would have come from the factory like that so my assumption is that one has been replaced.

@nadagail - they are quite dirty at the caps, but it appears there is a threaded cap that has (2) set screws going thru side of the cap into the cylinder. Also, I see a wiper/seal for the piston. So... my guess is that once the cap is unscrewed, the wiper seal can be pried out and below that...

I just checked with AEPN and found rebuild kits for $40. I watched a video as well and it doesn't seem overly difficult. Having said that, I know a fellow who had his rebuilt for @ $75 and that would be well worth it for me.

OK All, thanks for the replies, this all makes sense. I always leave it on the locks, I may try an experiment and leave it just off of the locks ( 1/8-1/4 inch) and see if the pressure pushes out against the seal and makes it more effective. @575cat - what makes these particular cylinders...

@575cat - I'm not sure I understand. Does that mean I have a bad cylinder and this is fluid that is leaking past the internal seals and is venting? I assume replacing the bolt w/ the hole w/ a solid bolt is not advised. Would a rebuild help. Short of a rebuild, is there any way to eliminate...

Hey All, I have an odd problem here. I have an older Ben Pearson LAS 7 (lift cable on the floor type). Used consistently, it has very little fluid leakage, after sitting for a month, there was a LOT of fluid on the floor upon the first use and actually squirted across the floor to the wall...

Thanks for the tips, I am pretty* confidant the new regulator will do the trick. I have read sometimes a control board is needed, but that is generally when power is not going to the solenoid wire, which mine is. Not to say it might be messed up somewhere else in the board. I hate throwing...

Generac manual only talked about the line from the 2nd regulator to the generator. I have done the math (line length, diameter etc...) and I am getting ample gas to the 2nd (house) regulator and the genny is about 2 feet from that. So that is fine. UPDATE- so.... I removed the regulator and...

Double Post

3 Regulators. 1 at the tank, 1 at the house, and the genny has it's own separate regulator