Recent content by bon3s

Depending on what it is made of... for safety reasons id venture away from the shooting plate idea unless your well over 200+ yards away from it. If parts of it are pot metal or cast, the results would be less the ideal if it comes back at you as shrapnel. Real shooting plates are made from...

We build things like this at work all the time, Id stay away from anything square and as the above have said go with I or H beam or with a rectangular tube as they are more rigid, additionally cross braces, gussets and the third rail should all be done no matter what u decide for materials...

Biggest thing that I run in to with all welder and why 'they act weird' or 'less good' to put it is typically dirt and misuse. Now I dont mean that people dropped them in the mud or off the back of the truck bed (yes ive seen both, at the same time and we still use that Miller welder...) ...

This one is very impressive and what I will most likely base mine off of.

Royal 11-10 Tig rod is what I have used in the past. Grind out for a good landing area - carbide burrs work best. Preheat, weld a small amount, peen, weld a little more, peen, repeat till finished. At the end peen and wrap in Kaowool. This is what i choose to use and it seems to work rather...

Just a little something I tossed together today for another batch of conveyors we are working on. Lots and lots of of 1" all thread and nuts, all 304 SS, Tig welded welded with 3/32 308 filler, plates are 7ga SS.

So, a little background ... i do industrial fabrication and welding for a large variety or factories that range from food grade stainless (304, 316 and Inconel) to large heavy dirty steel plants... no matter the size of the company we do the work for, at some point the maintenance dept. has come...

Last Repair I did (and was out of Silicone Bronze) I was given a newer product to use... (new to me at least) Royal 11-10 ... still has a preheat and post heat, I also peened as it never hurts... seems to have worked well, also has a higher tensile strength than Silicone bronze.

We use and have about a half a dozen dynafiles, both air and 110v... they work but it takes patience. As to the ignorant ppl posting learn to weld better or dont put ur self in spot where u cant get to it with a 4 1/2 inch... you obviously dont do diary grade finish on stainless for some of the...

Sounds like drive wheels, take them out and inspect them, they should be marked which is for what, also I know our shop welders will get a crazy amount of dust in not only the grove that is being used, but also the ones that arent being used. Small steel brush and some mineral spirits to break...

I mentioned that they might not be as strong due the the fact they are being bent cold, i could see them tearing or stretching outside the limits of the steel due to the fact im sure most tool (extensions) have a heat treat or tempering that will restricting the flexibility and ductility of the...

Any industrial fab/sheet metal shop could just toss it in the power break and easily do that... though it might result in a weaker part.... Both our breaks (10'5" @ 240T and 5'5' @ 110T ) will easily bend up round stock like that, though we typically bend up 16ga - 1/4" plate on it at 10' ....

A few things from someone that welds stainless every day... Color: - First off we dont ever try to avoid it,... we want it we like it... tells us what we need to know about penetration and strength, then we clean it. Wirebrushes and scotchbrite pads are your friend. - Secondly... 20ga in a...

You dont read well do you.... The last sentence mentions that all them fancy things on the walls are hanging off brackets I welded up.... Additionally we welded on towel hooks, mirror brackets and stainless shelfs at every shower head. Also those tub style sinks were nothing more than sheets...

Amazon sells a nice kit with a bunch of sizes and the crimp tool. Napa also carries them.... used them on my dads volvos a bunch.