Recent content by brewchief01

Go in the side, many will not have a way to get the wire where it needs to go if you punched the top. Some of the more expensive disconnects have a hub on top but you will pay far more then what an elbow or LB will cost Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Are your caps the black plastic finger tight ones or brass finger tight or hex head brass? The finger tight ones will both have o rings but the hex head style will not, the hex style need to be snugged up with a wrench or they can leak. The schrader valves will often seep, a cap is needed to...

Unhook the copper and everything should spin around to replace the gas valve, small can of black Rust-Oleum will fix the rust, that much copper is probably going to work fine it keep any vibration at bay. Even adding a vibration isolator will only do so much as there is really not a good way to...

I'd wait until the house is built and I had a chance to see if what they put in works before I started planning on a replacement. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

In some panels you can do it like that but then you have to get all your grounds to one side and the neutrals to the other, if you add a ground bar on each side it can make it much neater in the panel. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I would use 2-2-2-4 MHF to keep the wire size the same and allow upsizing the breaker in the future, conduit is cheap insurance and worth it if you ask me. Junction inside or out is up to you, either will work.

You will need to add ground bars anyways as this panel will be considered a sub panel, the neutral bars need to be unbonded from the panel. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Each furnace needs it's own separate return duct system, they should not be connected at all, if they are when one is running and the other is not you can end up pulling air through the furnace that is sitting idle. When this happens it can spin the blower in reverse, that can kill a blower...

If it's URD it probably isn't rated to be used indoors, you would have to transition to a different wire at each end to go inside. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Normally the zone panel will get powered from its own transformer, Honeywell 2 zone panel and 2 dampers is about as simple as you can get, if each zone can't handle most of the airflow then a barometric bypass damper may be needed. The Honeywell panel can have a sensor hooked up that will shut...

Just do a flare connection, running a 100' lineset in one piece would bring the ****. I would keep the flare joint in the attic up out of the attic insulation so it could be checked in future but it's really no different than the connection at the unit. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Wire to the ground rods should be one continuous length with no splices Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

The t&p valve has a stem on it that goes into the tank to sense temperature, it needs to remain in the tank where it's at. It also should be piped down to within 3" of the floor. A non OEM rod may not fit, the only option may be a factory part in this case. Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

It points to a flame sensor issue, verify that it is in the flame when the burner lights and isn't touching the burner or other metal. Make sure any ground wires running from the control board to burner box area are good. If you have a multi meter that will measure DC microamps you can hook it...