Recent content by bugsysiegals

I've 6.5hp with twin cylinder ... not sure what single stage is.

The solution I was planning to isn't catalyzed and doesn't contain isocyanates. After reviewing the chemistry documentation, it does have some lung irritants. While it's minimal with this Waterborne solution, I'm just going to spray in the garage where I can open doors to ventilate and be safe...

Thanks for all the feedback, I'll stick with 3/4", the extra $100 isn't going to break the bank and I can always get a bigger compressor later ... who knows, maybe one of my sons will want to build a car with me down the road and then I'm set. FWIW - I'm filtering water by letting the air flow...

I'm not sure I understand "pressure drop". It seems the pressure would remain consistent across the entire run no matter the size of pipe but what would change would be the amount of volume throughput which drops off as the pipe shrinks?

Seems a bit backwards ... perhaps better to say if I was using Black Pipe, then I'd only use 3/4" as it will rust and reduce the inner diameter, but if using Copper, any size.

It seems I overlooked another option (C), which implements a Tee in order to capture condensation from both pipes and using 1 drain valve ... perhaps this is best?

It seems even with your idea (B), I'd still need 2 drain valves in the garage as I'd want a drain where it connects and runs upwards??

FWIW - I will connect a flexible hose between compressor and the Copper on the wall which will run up and down a few times (~30ft) with drains on each bottom loop followed by a desiccant filter. This will then flow downstairs with another drain and desiccant filter. I suspect this will remove...

My main water runs in the house are 3/4" Copper ... how can that rust?

Unfortunately this tank's output does not have a removable bung so if it gets messed up drilling, it's toast. Probably better to sell it and upgrade to a different setup. My main water supply in the house is on 3/4" Copper so I'm not sure how that will rust...

The output can not be changed. I could put a 3/8” plug and leave it for air pressure gauge and the thing which activated the motor. The input can be changed but I’d have to modify it to then also allow air out the same hole it’s pumping air into. Are you suggesting this?

10' 3/4" Copper L only cost me $17 each. Throw in the elbows/tees, etc. and I doubt I have more than $250 into the whole setup. I'd considered the rapid air but since this is for spraying, I need to eliminate moisture and read the Copper would do this better than the Pex-Al-Pex for cooling hot...

FWIW - I've battery powered tools for most of my needs and only use air for blowing things off and airing up tires but am now looking to spray. That said, I'm using a Devilbiss Tekna Prolite and based on the air cap uses the following... HV30 - 14.5 to 16.5 CFM @ 20-24 PSI Inlet TE10 - 7.5...

I've a 5hp 60 Gallon Air Compressor and bought 3/4" Copper "L" to run air in the garage and down to the basement (~75ft away) for spraying furniture in my wood shop. That said, the compressor output is 3/8" and now I'm wondering if I should save $100 and get 1/2" pipe instead since 3/4" will...