Recent content by C10Dan

I have about 2200 sqft and I'm located between Buffalo and Rochester, NY. I found some reclaimed XPS insulation that I used under my entire slab. It's 4" thick, 40 psi high density. So glad I found it. I also used 4" (25 psi) on the edge of the slab, down feet vertically into ground and...

So what was the purpose of the mesh? Just to strap the pex to? Seems like it does no good in adding strength to the concrete sitting on top of the insulation.

This is what I was originally planning to do. I like this idea from the wire mesh stand point. This way you're assured that the wire mesh is into the concrete and not just sitting on the bottom. Plus it protects the PEX from saw cutting. If you put down wire mesh down first and tie Pex to the...

Maybe that doesn't matter if you read the green building advisor article in the link above. I always thought that putting the vapor barrier down first kept moisture from migrating up into the insulation. I'm still not sure here. Good point on the PEX staples though.

I was planning to lay down 10 or 15 mil Perminator by W.R. Meadows (https://www.wrmeadows.com/perminator-underslab-vapor-barrier-retarder/) then 4" 40 psi XPS (which I already have). Then planned to staple PEX to the foamboard, followed by wire mesh on top of the PEX. Finally finished off with...

OK so I'm not so knowledgeable in the installation of in-floor radiant heat. I'm planning to install it in my workshop floor, and I'm trying to learn... Quickly! I always thought that the vapor barrier went down first over the compacted ground, followed by the insulation. However, contrary to...

If I understand this correctly, you are saying to put a vapor barrier on top of the insulation, between the insulation and concrete? I've heard of installing vapor barrier on ground, then insulation, and then concrete, but not an extra vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Anyone else done this?

Agreed that once it's under the concrete it won't matter. I'm not sure where they were reclaimed from, but some have a dry dirty side that appear to have been in contact with the ground. They are all dry and none of them have taken on water. There were a couple that I came across that had...

Well I decided to go with the reclaimed 4" - 40 psi rated XPS. I made the trip with my truck and 16' landscape trailer to pick it up. For being reclaimed, this insulation was really nice. It's only going to be buried anyway. I was able to pick through it and take what ever I wanted. If there...

Actually my building is about 75' from my house. I'm planning to run domestic water to the building for a couple of reasons. First of all, I want water in the building and secondly I do plan to use it to supply my radiant heat system. I know other people who have stand-alone buildings that...

Thanks Radix2. Well here's the deal. The cost of 2" 25 psi rated reclaimed XPS would be $975 for my building. The cost for 4" 40 psi rated reclaimed XPS would be $1650. Now if I were to buy 3" 40 psi (Foamular 400) new, it would cost me over $6000 for my building. New 3" 25 psi (Foamular...

Hi all, I'm just about finished with my new pole barn workshop and still have to pour the floor. I have an opportunity to buy some reclaimed 2" or 4" thick XPS insulation at a very good price and would like some feedback. I'm leaning toward buying the 4" 40 psi rated XPS, but wanted to know...

So if I'm reading this right... You ran 3/4" conduit on top of the wall girt, then you transitioned to a piece of BX cable where you ran into the back of the box. Then did you go back out through that same BX cable to run to the next box down the line? Just wondering how you ran from one box...

I'm actually planning to install my outlets at 4' height along the girt. I don't want to bend over anymore to plug things in. :)

Here are a few more pictures of the progress: