Recent content by camarojim

What do you consider 'cheap' ? I buy all my grade 5 and 8 bolts and related nuts, washers, etc, at TSC or the Farm Fleet type ag stores. Usually about $2 a lb. for $20 bux I can get a lot of 1 lb bags of hardware to stock my bins. Great assortment and easy service. Jim

very cool building and great project reports...love the whole deal. I'm from Waterloo and can appreciate what you have done and gone thru. Jim

Rock, yep, warming the temps up higher fixed the flicker. I didn't realize the t8 fixtures were cold sensitive. when i raised the temp higher, the flicker went away. guess I should have done more research to find some cold temp ballasts that used t8's. at least my problem is solved- for now Jim

Nick, I'm not familiar with the pvc joint compound product. I've always used a teflon paste product. I did my extension pipe runs with some used 1" as that what was laying around the farm . I had 150 psi going thru it and no leaks by using that paste on the threads. The water pipes had 50 psi...

T8 cold flicker All you guys with T8 bulbs. Do you have cold start flicker ? I just got my 8 ft strips installed this AM, got my bulbs at menards this PM, came home and installed them..the shop is about 55F. when I turned the switch, yes they came on instantly, but they are not bright white...

grainery Quite the project ahead. I'm working on converting a double ear corn crib into a new shop. I'll post some pics sometime. To answer your question about the operation of the building. you are correct about the wagon pulling into the center alley. I think the verticle elevator carried...

I agree I'll agree with that...great looking buildings.. wonderful DIY , that will be strong and last a super long time. Did you use ridgid foam or have the foam sprayed on the steel ? pretty reasonable for cost too. any more plans to add on ? Jim

you could do what I did to my block bld..it was made of ''hadite'' block, suppose to be lighter and more thermal inulating..ha , NOT..they are softer and started to crumble from the heat/cold cycle and water vapor coming thru... we stripped the bld with 2x4's by using tapcon screws..put some...

cool, looks great...keep the pictures coming .. Jim

thanks for the report I ended up buying a hypertherm 43 via an unfinished ebay auction...it didn't bring enough, but not paying paypal fees, he cut me a deal..just got it Sunday and can't wait to try it out. Jim

Kevin It should be as easy as taking both doors out of the rough opening frame and adding some material to the garage opening to make the door fit..give yourself 1/2 '' of clearance for the new rough opening, get some new wedge shims and nails and go to it..a sawzall to cut the nails on the old...

Todd, I'm just thinking you will have to decide what size opening you will want to have, and then frame a new opening in, either with steel or wood..I'm assuming you have a concrete footing / aproach in place ?... and then pay for a new door- the painfull part.. Jim

Totally agree with you ...exposed hard foam board is not very fire safe.. and I agree about your method of putting batts in the walls..same method I used..I used white steel over everything..it spans distance better than drywall, is tougher, and doesn't need as much care to keep it looking good...

I'll get some pics this weekend of my shop I did 3 years ago, and send 'em to ya pronto.. Jim

yep, -20 is common most winters..frost freeze can be 3 ft...so mostly you have to plan for 3.5 or 4 ft deep footings..or post holes.. thanks for the info. Jim