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INSULATION--Pole Building

bje31

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Mar 21, 2005
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202
Location
Western PA
Advice please: I have a 24x40 pole building with metal roof and sides. The garage-to-be was not insulated when constructed. What would be the best insulation to use in the ceiling and the sides? What can you tell me about bubble wrap as both a finish look and insulation? Your help is appreciated.
 
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BOSS351C

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Jul 26, 2005
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Midland, MI
I just did my 24x40 pole barn with 4'x8' sheets of styrofoam insulation. Quick, easy, and minimal mess. This is the way most are insulated around here. I just nailed the sheets on the bottom of the trusses on the ceiling and on the backside of the nailers on the walls.
 
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bje31

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Mar 21, 2005
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Western PA
Thanks Boss 351C...do you forsee any future problems with condensation, etc.?...That is my main concern...
 

BOSS351C

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Midland, MI
I'm not a builder, so I don't really know. Don't see why it would be anydifferant than other forms of insulation?
 

camarojim

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Jun 14, 2005
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Location
Iowa
bje31 said:
Advice please: I have a 24x40 pole building with metal roof and sides. The garage-to-be was not insulated when constructed. What would be the best insulation to use in the ceiling and the sides? What can you tell me about bubble wrap as both a finish look and insulation? Your help is appreciated.

how much insulation and how constant warm are you planning to keep this area ?

I agree the 4x8 sheets will cover it quick and do a good job.. I assume you were just planning to cover the bottom of the truss cord, and create a ceiling.. were you planning to installed joist hanger brackets and 2x? ?

all the attic space will have vents to the outside so if you can keep the warm air from contacting the cold roof, you should be ok..

I have used 2" foam sheets for a temp suspended ceiling in a livestock building and its done a real good job for over 10 years now....keeps the animals a lot warmer than trying to heat the bigger space where only the roof rafters were insulated. I had a nailer every 4 ft.

for max insulation I would put batts into the wall and ceiling cavities, and then foam ridgid sheets over all that, tape the joints with aluminum tape, and cover with steel.

JMHO

Jim
 
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bje31

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Mar 21, 2005
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Western PA
thanks JMHO...I plan on using the building for car maintance, etc...I will have a propane space heater for heat...I live in western Pennsylvania; our winters do get cold but I will use it only when the heater can give me enough heat to work comfortably...any chance of sending pics of the inside of your building...curious as to how it looks, etc...bje31
 

krooser

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Jun 3, 2005
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Waupaca, Wisconsin
Your insurace company may not like the exposed styrofoam since it's flammable...just a thought. The BEST way I've found is to stud out the wall with 2x6's on 2' centers HORIZONTALLY...then use 6" fiberglass batts between the studs...cover with a medium weight plastic then paneling or sheetrock...keeps you toasty warm.
 
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camarojim

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Jun 14, 2005
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Iowa
bje31 said:
thanks JMHO...I plan on using the building for car maintance, etc...I will have a propane space heater for heat...I live in western Pennsylvania; our winters do get cold but I will use it only when the heater can give me enough heat to work comfortably...any chance of sending pics of the inside of your building...curious as to how it looks, etc...bje31


I'll get some pics this weekend of my shop I did 3 years ago, and send 'em to ya pronto..

Jim
 

camarojim

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Jun 14, 2005
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Location
Iowa
krooser said:
Your insurace company may not like the exposed styrofoam since it's flammable...just a thought. The BEST way I've found is to stud out the wall with 2x6's on 2' centers HORIZONTALLY...then use 6" fiberglass batts between the studs...cover with a medium weight plastic then paneling or sheetrock...keeps you toasty warm.

Totally agree with you ...exposed hard foam board is not very fire safe.. and I agree about your method of putting batts in the walls..same method I used..I used white steel over everything..it spans distance better than drywall, is tougher, and doesn't need as much care to keep it looking good. More expensive, but no taping, painting sanding etc.. put it up and you're done..

Jim
 

BOSS351C

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Jul 26, 2005
Messages
46
Location
Midland, MI
krooser said:
Your insurace company may not like the exposed styrofoam since it's flammable...just a thought.QUOTE]


This could be true if you have a picky Ins. company. Ours doesn't care. In fact, when we made sure to tell our agent that we got a permit for the electical so it was all nice and legal, he said they would have covered it even without a permit :wtf: . Of course insurance laws vary greatly from state to state, so you should check into it.
 

The MOX

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Jun 21, 2005
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Location
Central Indiana
I have a 30' x 32' pole barn with 10 foot walls. When the barn was completed and the electrical was run, I had the interior spray foamed with 1 1/2" of urethane foam. This was done professionally. It was expensive but worth it. The first stuff all the soffits and joints with fiberglass insulation to stop foam spread to the exterior. They ten spray foamed from the peak of the roof to the sill plates in a continuous spray. The insulation is very good and it eliminated all air leaks. It was about 6 hours of work for three workers. The problem with pole barn construction is there are so many places for potential air leak and vermin entry. I have been in the barn for three winters and it has been easy to keep warm with a corn stove. And the mice haven't found a way in (yet). It also make for a stiffer metal panel and a quiter area. The foam was covered with pegboard panels, floor to ceiling.
 

groove grabber

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Joined
Oct 2, 2007
Messages
26
Your insurace company may not like the exposed styrofoam since it's flammable...just a thought. The BEST way I've found is to stud out the wall with 2x6's on 2' centers HORIZONTALLY...then use 6" fiberglass batts between the studs...cover with a medium weight plastic then paneling or sheetrock...keeps you toasty warm.

I live in Southern Illinois and I am worried about this. This was exactly how I was planning on doing mine but They are saying that it will sweat. They have convinced me to put double bubble foil backed wrap instead. Whats your thoughts?
 

ironman2424

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Feb 19, 2009
Messages
50
most insurance companies cover one outdoor structure in with the homeowners policy at no additional expense. at least mine does. i don't see why it matters what kind or where he puts insulation. it's still should be covered regardless. i'm sure glad i live in the country. ya'll can keep your inspectors, codes and permits. i would'nt put up with that **** for one second. an inspector would find himself tossed off my property head first and prefferably in front of a semi truck.
 
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