Recent content by carrerakid

If there is already fiber glass or rockwool in the wall blowing in anything will not work well. Removing it all is very time consuming and expensive. Your best bet may be to foam around Windows and doors and properly install a quality house wrap to minimize air infiltration. If there is no...

First isolate the compressor from the floor using rubber mountings. No need for anything else on the floor. Caulk all the cracks in the closet and weatherstrip the doors. To reduce low frequency transmission Dynamat or other high density material applied to the walls. Next use fiber glass...

The R-value they are claiming is a combination of the EPS and the foil reflectivity. Foil can be very good in hot dry climates as long as it is clean, shinny, and has at least a 7/8" air space. Stick with fiber glass of rockwool. Use foil to suppliment the basics in a hot dry climate.

Metal does not breath so metal buildings tend to sweat. Therefore you need to keep the dew point away from the metal (good insulation) and use a vapor barrier. No vapor barrier is 100% effective so you should design for worst case. Whatever you use make sure you completely fill the cavity...

Cost per R-value of foam is very high. the primary benefit over fiber glass is that it seals the envelope in one simple step. Pole barns are metal and sealing the joints is quite easy and more cost effective. Destro's method along with a proper sealing& calking will perform every bit as well as...

Make sure the fire rating and smoke generation numbers are OK on exposed foam. Many of the current products are not meant to be left exposed.

I am new to this board. glad I found it. I have an older wood doors and plan on gluing ridged foam to the wood panels. Does anyone have pictures of such an application. A word on life safety. When considering foams look for the E84 flame spread and smoke generation numbers. Don't leave...