Recent content by casperz

I used free plans from Midwest plans service about 15 years ago. Midwest Plan Service Here is a 32ft truss plan from the page. We built 30ft 4/12 pitch trusses and used 2x6's for all chords with 3/8" plywood plates set 24in OC. It's held up for 15 years and we get at least one snow of more...

Alright. Thanks for the input, helps a ton.

I understand both sets of terminology completely it's when they are mixed that I was confused. Thanks for the clarification! It's a pre engineered red iron building with purlins on the roof and wall girts. So your saying I can screw right to the flush purlins and girts with the rock if I space...

I'm not clear on the terminology of rafters on a steel building? Is that the roof purlins that are now 36" o.c.? Also not clear on the last sentence. I know what a truss is on stick frame house but not clear on what you mean in this context on a metal building?

I don't have it yet. Does it need to support a certain load? 3 PSF?

I want to build a full span room in a 50x100 metal building that has a 5/12 pitch roof. I'd like to cover the ceiling with lite-weight drywall. Could I screw 2x4's flat and perpendicular to the metal purlins every 24" and then attach drywall to the 2x4's? The steel purlins are 36" OC.

On a 30x40 with 16' garage door and a man door, rake, ridge, eve and door trim runs about $750 to $1000.

I've been using nail guns (real life) since the mid 90's, crawling all over roofs and walls and have never found a need to have my head anywhere but behind the gun. Anyone that does it on a regular basis is seriously asking for trouble.

The Wings over Rockies Flight Museum is good if you're into airplanes: http://www.wingsmuseum.org/

I installed a shop air filter similar to the one below. http://www.amazon.com/JDS-750-ER-Filtration-Electrostatic-Pre-Filter/dp/B0000302XS I can't remember the brand of mine but it has a timer that lets it run for 2-6 hours after your done for the day. Sometimes I let it run while I'm in the...

Good info bobbyd! So what would be better: A 6" slab with rebar as you described or a 4" slab with #3 rebar 18" O.C.? Could you even go with #3 24" O.C. rebar? I'm hesitant not to use any steel.

I recently priced rebar and compared to mesh the cost difference is not that great. I'm sure there are more experienced guys that will respond but from what I've read rebar is much better at holding things together. I'm trying to do mine on the cheap too but I think the extra steel is worth it.

All good information guys. I'll get some bids on placing/finishing only. If I could get it for .65 sq/ft I'd go for that. If I use a 8x8 grid what is the best product to use to fill the seams?

All great input, thanks guys! I do plan to do this pour with two other guys. None of us have much concrete experience but I have done smaller slabs. To answer some of your downsides I could change the size to 40 x 80 that would be 8 20x20 pours. Add another day for the footings. Each pour...

Just like any other large pour. You would screed from the existing slab to the forms on the new side. I could shoot the elevation of the forms for each new section with my transit. I know large slabs are done this way such as airport runways, just wanted to see if anyone had tacked a smaller...