I want to build a full span room in a 50x100 metal building that has a 5/12 pitch roof. I'd like to cover the ceiling with lite-weight drywall. Could I screw 2x4's flat and perpendicular to the metal purlins every 24" and then attach drywall to the 2x4's? The steel purlins are 36" OC.
Support for full span vaulted drywall ceiling in metal building
- Thread starter casperz
- Start date
readhead
Well-known member
What was the collateral load designed into the building? That number should be on the first page of your plans.
I think...so, be careful here, if you close up the rafters to 24" OC you can use 5/8" rock. But that is a question for the engineer at the metal building company.
If you went with your original suggestion, I would thru-bolt the 2x4's. By the time you fabricate all that the extra trusses would probably end up cheaper and better.
If you went with your original suggestion, I would thru-bolt the 2x4's. By the time you fabricate all that the extra trusses would probably end up cheaper and better.
readhead
Well-known member
Jackfre has a good point. That is how we usually order the building if we know that drywall will be applied. It is a lot less expensive to add more framing components at this point than to pay for extra framing later. Three pounds is probably ok but make sure you take into account any other loads like lights, duct, sprinklers etc.
I'm not clear on the terminology of rafters on a steel building? Is that the roof purlins that are now 36" o.c.? Also not clear on the last sentence. I know what a truss is on stick frame house but not clear on what you mean in this context on a metal building?
readhead
Well-known member
Jackfre was mixing his terminology. First let me clarify. Are we talking a pre engineered red iron building or a tube steel style building?
The roof members are purlins and the wall members are girts. By spacing these members at 24" on center you eliminate the need for extra framing later. You will also not loose more floor space with the extra framing. For the most space inside ask for straight columns and flush girts.
The roof members are purlins and the wall members are girts. By spacing these members at 24" on center you eliminate the need for extra framing later. You will also not loose more floor space with the extra framing. For the most space inside ask for straight columns and flush girts.
I understand both sets of terminology completely it's when they are mixed that I was confused. Thanks for the clarification!
It's a pre engineered red iron building with purlins on the roof and wall girts. So your saying I can screw right to the flush purlins and girts with the rock if I space both at 24 o.c.? if that is the case I like it.
What type of R value insulation can be used on the roof in that case? I assume it goes on top of the purlins but gets compressed by the sheetrock to the depth of the purlin?
readhead
Well-known member
Depends on the depth of the purlins. Most common is 8" but it may be different on your building.
Casperz, thank you for clarifying what I said...or meant, or something!