Recent content by Chicken

Looking for: 17mm, 1/2 drive, 6pt 19mm, 1/2 drive, 6pt Happy to cover shipping cost. No specific brand, just trying to fill some gaps. Thank you.

Awesome!

Thanks for the feedback guys. On the ‘pump end’ I’ve got female NPT so not concerned there. The switch side has what’s shown in my pics below. A compression fitting of sorts but the ‘middle’ part is a cone not the usual two sides type I am familiar with. It seems to be retained in the nut...

the brake line I've got is 'green-ish' in color. I don't recall the material.

I've got an old Campbell Hausfeld 20 gallon compressor. It wasn't working when i got it and has had a handfull of repairs over the years. When I replaced the pressure switch I ran PTFE tube to the unloader valve. That was fine for a while but now that I am running a blast cabinet it wont cut...

I will give that a shot. I haven't been blaming 'the' relay since I have a half dozen that act the same. I have not. The car runs very well, so I hadn't looked into much else. I'll have to see if you can rent fuel pressure testers, I don't own anything. I want to state it again - bench...

added comments in bold below. OK, so I am going in circles here..but now I am back to the fact that relays get hot with ONLY the coil side connected. I am sitting at the bench right now. AC/DC converter power supply powered up. 14v nominal @ 3A. Connecting gator clip leads to COIL side...

yes, the oem relays have a diode in them. At this point none of the relays have officially died, once they cool down they seem to work just fine again. I do understand that the contacts may become 'worn' after excessive heat. I'll cut one open and have a look, they are the type shown in AvE's...

OK, I just spent some time with a multi meter during lunch. Voltage at battery, engine running, 14.45v. The relay coil is being fed 14.4v. The 'High current' side of the relay is being fed 13.9v. 13.8v is leaving the relay to fuel pump. Voltage drop from relay to fuel pump, positive side of...

Let me make sure I understand the theory here. By disconnecting the +12v from relay and fuel pump, I essentially have a run of wire X feet long. Then I take DMM and probe from one end of the wire to chassis ground? This of course should be an open circuit, since the +12v should NOT be going...

I will retract the statement about relay getting hot with only coil powered. It gets warm, but not hot like it does while driving. Fuel pump is drawing 6.4 amps. I am thinking this is all in the fuse panel/ relay terminal - meaning loose connection/socket. Unfortunately the panel also...

I think this evening I will drive the car with intentions of it failing and will then use multimeter to confirm your questions. However, the car 'died' saturday and I did start probing, but it was hot out and I wanted to get to home, so i swapped relays assuming it would work...it sure did...

low profile mini atc fuses. I dont think that will work.

Your math is clear and makes perfect sense. Taking a relay and connecting coil side only, directly to the battery, it gets warm to the touch in a few minutes. I have to assume this is normal? Any recommendations for reasonably priced DC amp meter? I'm unfortunately in a situation where this...

Thanks for temp info, that puts things into perspective. Fuse is correct, 15A. I will have to get a clamp on meter. I 100% agree with your comment on splice[specifically ground]. I did splice into the ground wire coming from the fuel pump, about 1' from the connector that goes to the tank...