Recent content by Cjk

I have 9 or 10' spans with 29ga steel ceiling and blew R60 cellulose in the attic. I noticed a bit of sag but its not noticeable unless you look for it.

1/2" plywood here and I have had 2 occasions so far where I had to remove a few sheets to gain access to the wall. Works great and I love the look.

After 2" the pay back for being more efficient was a lot longer that just 2". My sprayer advised to go with 2" but would have done what I wanted as long as my checkbook was big enough lol.

That is going up fast! You might want to check with your builder and make sure that the water heater is rated for space heating. Some are, some arent. Both will work but the space heating rated one will last longer. Keep the pics coming.

I had 2" of closed cell sprayed on my pole barn walls last year and am very happy with it. The ceiling was 24" of cellulose for about R60. $2.25/sft for 2" isnt a bad price at all. Last winters heat bill was less than expected.

Congrats. I built a similar building last year. Very happy with the heated floor, spray foam walls and r60 cellulose in the ceiling. Last winters heating cost was less than I had expected.

No issues. We had another buiding put up about 10 years ago. Its only 14' tall and its been fine also. Will get some pics tonight.

Re: 16' walls - what post spacing? My building is 16' sidewalls, 9' on center with 2x6 girts every 24 or 30", then the steel is screwed to the girts. No OSB in the building but they did add 2x bracing in several areas.

I went with 1/2" plywood on the bottom and steel on top.

I went 16' to allow a mezzanine above some areas.

If you are in snow country or plan to wash cars you need a floor drain. Since I wanted a level section of the floor I only have a drain on one end of my building and park any snowy vehicles over it to dry off. Will the building be heated? If so full time or just when in use? If full time a...

I used drywall screws on my 1/2" plywood and didnt have any trouble with screws breaking or not pulling tight. Actually they will pull right thru the wood if you dont stop in time. Being able to remove a panel to rewire or replumb is really nice.

On our 2 building the trusses are 8 and 9ft apart each set on a pole. I would guess with 4ft spacing you would need a pole every 4ft or a gluelam beam along the whole side to set the trusses on. I cant see how the 4ft building could come out cheaper in the end.

If you are handy at all, and since you are buying a lift I would guess you are, download the install manual for your new lift and read it thru. It is fairly simple. If you have any issues post here, someone has been there done that already. I had a tractor with loader available to move the posts...

Correct. Steel was hung on the ceiling with a vapor barrier, baffles were palced on the sides to keep the cellulose out of the soffits, then celluose was blown up there.