Recent content by Coolball

There's two doors I have to have to have full on/off control at. The door from the living quarters and the shop front door. I found a hitch in the giddy'up with my occupancy sensor idea where the control switch has to be ON in order for the sensors to function. So what I was thinking is similar...

That's the ultimate plan for my project. I designed a system with a couple of ground mount arrays in key spots since I'm in the woods and buried the conduit to the locations while I was doing the ground work. My utility also does net metering so I installed a solar ready meter main. All the...

It's all welcome in an effort to sort through the process. I designed the original to use wireless, the problem I ran into was that most wireless switches are only rated up to 8 amps where as each bay in this case will have a max of 11A. What you say makes sense and combined with the suggestion...

This might be a solution. I was originally going to use lutron wireless pico remotes and a light panel combined with occupancy sensors. The budget won't allow it at this point

I was originally going to use a light switching panel but the build has gone over budget so I have to cut costs and the panel and switches are expensive compared to regular switches and more cable. They were on closeout at the electrical supply house. It's a lot of light, although the ballast...

Depending on what security system is in your main house, you might be able to piggyback the shop with wireless sensors and a wireless keypad. I am running a Quolsys iq4 panel using DSC power series neo wireless sensors over 300' with no issues. The panel is even inside a full metal building...

I've been tossing this around a bit and still not exactly sure how best to run the circuits to my shop lights. The fixtures are 30k lumen high bay and each draws 1.79 amps. The shop part of the building (50x100 barndominium) is 50x75, it's red iron so with the columns it basically is three bays...

Made a few changes. I decided to dry vent the shower by itself and use the lav to wet vent the water closet. I also added a floor drain in the mech room for the boiler. Happy to say it passed inspection.

Yes there is a kitchen sink, utility sink, washer and condensate drain. If I understand correctly, the main cannot serve as part of the wet vent right?

Like so?

I didn't realize the pic was labeled wrong, ****. Yes there is a toilet right in the middle. From left to right is shower, toilet, sink. Updated pics. I know a dry vent can't go horizontal until 6" above the flood rim, but what about a horizontal wet vent going vertical, if that makes sense...

I believe the WC would have to be the last fixture if tied together before the main no?

I'm looking to start rough in plumbing and looking for a solution to tie in a shower drain. I'm in Montana which follows UPC and will need to pass inspection. The main 4'' septic line comes in right through the middle of the bathroom and runs in front of the fixtures so I will have to wet vent...

That's the ticket and solution. The gutters will tuck right in there. I keep forgetting about them. Thanks for the insight! Thanks to all who replied.