Recent content by cspcrx

Appreciate all the discussion and exchange. Decided to go with the Mega. Found it online for a few hundred cheaper so going to try and get a price match. Read reviews on other sites and it really gets solid reviews. appreciate it

That was my thinking as well.

Appreciate the perspective provided. Should have mentioned my goal is to stay around $1100-$1300. Want to purchase from Lowe’s or home depo because I have gift cards there. That’s why I came up with these two that stood out to me. between these two which would you recommend?

For example was using my cut off wheel could only cut for about 30-45 seconds before compressor had to kick on and the tool did work well. Would have to stop letting the tank fully fill and shut off before trying again.

Very good information. Perhaps the extra cost of the Mega with the larger motor and higher CFM is worth it. I am guessing the larger motor will allow for quicker recovery when you run it low?

I use air impacts, ratchets, and die grinders the most. Plasma cutter every now and then as well. Seems the die grinders are what kill my current compressor. But is getting 100% duty cycle for less money make it a better choice?

Have had a Husky 110v 20 gal compressor that has served me well for many years. As my air tool collection and use has grown I have quickly discovered it can not keep up with them. Looking to upgrade to a 220v 60 gallon. I do not do paint work just work on my cars and fabricate in my garage...

Gimpyrobb that is an option but something else to secure and have bounce around. Thats why I really like the hinged flap. As iagsxr points out I’ve seen higher end trailers with them. Going to the track next weekend so will nose around a little. I found one that is 1/8“ that they confirmed...

Thank you! i the same thing all the time. I had an open deck trailer for years but in my older age I am getting soft and am looking to travel further to events so an enclosed trailer helps so much. yes the gate transition flap is plywood. Trailer company sells them specifically for this...

Yes mine are the flush style towards the rear of the floor.

Appreciate the insights and discussion. Helps my brain wrap around how to make it work.

Was speaking with the parts person from the trailer dealer I got my trailer from and they had a good idea as well. Buy one thats the correct width, can get aluminum one on Amazon for $135, the just weld on some extra aluminum where the cars tires will drive over it to strengthen those two spots.

Thats what I am leaning towards now. I can get a big enough piece of 3/16 6061 t6 diamond plate for about $110. Hing for $15 in 3/16 aluminum. Just need cut to size, which I could have done, one bend to match trailer ramp transition and the hinge welded to it. i will start checking with some...

I like the keep it simple approach as well. Thanks all!

That is my thought exactly. Get the material and have the bend match my trailer. The thing is it seems 1/8 is not enough for them to say they are car safe. I spoke with three retailers all made out of 1/8 aluminum and none of them recommended it for loading cars. They all said it could work...