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Trailer gap flap material

cspcrx

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I have an enclosed trailer where the rear door drops to form a ramp. See picture below of my setup.

54068114233_456af57f42_c.jpgUntitled by Victor M, on Flickr

I am looking for a gap flap or transition flap to cover the 5.5” gap between the door and trailer deck. When I load and unload the car it gets stuck in it. I really would like an aluminum flap in diamond plate to match the other aluminum in the trailer. All of the aluminum flaps I have found they say not rated for cars. Anyone know of one that is?

I was also thinking of just having one made. I was looking at 1/8” 6061T6 diamond plate. each tire has a contact patch of 8.7” and the front tires combined apply 1294lbs. From what I found this material has a 40,000 psi rating. If I use the numbers my car would apply about 74.4psi. The part I don’t know how to calculate is how the 5.5” gap plays into this. Anyone know this level of engineering math?

appreciate any help.
 
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PCustoms

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Got a pic of what your trying to fix?

I'm picturing a few hinges (or piano hinge) and a 6" strip of diamond plate
 

Steve W.

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If the gap is deep enough to catch your car, you might want to attach a strip on the bottom of your plate to support it. With that support in place, the material you mentioned should handle the 2” gap on either side.

.
 
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cspcrx

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Wow they're proud of that...

I'd get some hinges and some plate to make own
Kind of my thinking as well and why I am searching for feedback. I can get a piano hinge for $15 from the metal supply store near me and the plate for about $110.
 

larry_g

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Consider two plates that just span the gap where the tires roll across it. A couple of 8x10" plates hinged to the door would work. Have them hinged to the door so that you can fold them up and flat to the door held with a simple latch or magnet. Open the door and flip the plates into position and your off to the races.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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cspcrx

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agree. Could it be made out of diamond plate and if so how thick would it have to be? 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4 to span the 5.5“ gap and not collapse?
 

VR6ix

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Wow they're proud of that...

I'd get some hinges and some plate to make own
Holy cow indeed... I should draw that up and price it at work for fun!

@cspcrx print that PitProducts page and take it to a fab shop for a quote! They could even put the bend in the correct spot to match the angle of your ramp. That would be slick with a spring-loaded piano hinge so it always drops down in place when you open the trailer.

It does not need to be checker/tread/diamond plate. Looks bling, but, very very little added function here. If they make them in 1/8" then it must work. 3/16" likely overkill.
 
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cspcrx

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That is my thought exactly. Get the material and have the bend match my trailer. The thing is it seems 1/8 is not enough for them to say they are car safe. I spoke with three retailers all made out of 1/8 aluminum and none of them recommended it for loading cars. They all said it could work but would want me coming back and saying it didn’t.

only reason I was going with diamond plate was because it matches what is in the trailer on the fenders, front wall strip, and pads on floor for parking. Agree, added bling and cost that provides no other purpose.
 

NUTTSGT

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I don't have issue getting my car out of my trailer but I drive mine in/out. I'm trying to think how deep the gap is.

I'd almost consider a couple of pieces of 1/2-3/4" plywood that will fill the gap, maybe 16-18" wide, and glue/screw a piece of aluminum diamond plate to the top of it for a smooth transition.
 

JSGAuto

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With a car that light, anything is going to be fine.

I just use 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood. I drop it in the gap, so they don't shift.
 

VR6ix

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If someone walked in to the fab shop I work at and asked for this exact thing, in 3003 3/16" checker plate 8" wide by 72" long with a one or two or three shallow bends and an aluminum piano hinge welded on the one edge, I'd be asking for about $250 Canadian cash and they can find their own screws to mount it to the trailer. PitProducts wants $354 USD for a 72" long 1/8" thick version. Ouch!
 
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cspcrx

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Thats what I am leaning towards now. I can get a big enough piece of 3/16 6061 t6 diamond plate for about $110. Hing for $15 in 3/16 aluminum. Just need cut to size, which I could have done, one bend to match trailer ramp transition and the hinge welded to it. i will start checking with some local fabricators.
 
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cspcrx

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Was speaking with the parts person from the trailer dealer I got my trailer from and they had a good idea as well. Buy one thats the correct width, can get aluminum one on Amazon for $135, the just weld on some extra aluminum where the cars tires will drive over it to strengthen those two spots.
 
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mike93lx

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Was speaking with the parts person from the trailer dealer I got my trailer from and they had a good idea as well. Buy one thats the correct width, can get aluminum one on Amazon for $135, the just weld on some extra aluminum where the cars tires will drive over it to strengthen those two spots.
Or just use a good adhesive and attach wood blocks to it that allow it to be fully supported at those spots
 

kerrynzl

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If he attaches hinges, the wood block will require him to lift the plate up out of the gap before closing the door.

You shave the leading edge on a chamfer [or gap it]
The wood transition flap is hinged at the trailer side.

You can add 2 extension arms [L & R] to the transition flap so that it lifts the wood up/ out [these arms have rollers on them]
 
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kerrynzl

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I have an enclosed trailer where the rear door drops to form a ramp. See picture below of my setup.

54068114233_456af57f42_c.jpg


What impresses me is your whole setup for a club racer.
Enclosed trailer and Tent .

I've been to National events where some guy with an expensive Porsche GT3 cup car shows up with it on an open trailer that looks like it was constructed out of Bunk-Bed angle steel.

Back to your original question!
I have to ask, what is the tailgate door extension made from??? [the part that flips over to the ground]
It looks like plywood.
 
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cspcrx

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Thank you! i the same thing all the time. I had an open deck trailer for years but in my older age I am getting soft and am looking to travel further to events so an enclosed trailer helps so much.

yes the gate transition flap is plywood. Trailer company sells them specifically for this purpose made out of marine grade plywood. I believe it’s 3/4 inch. Sure makes getting up on the ramp nice and easy.
 

gimpyrobb

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Can you just cut some plywood to fill the gap while loading/unloading, then take it out to close the door?
 

whateg01

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...
I've been to National events where some guy with an expensive Porsche GT3 cup car shows up with it on an open trailer that looks like it was constructed out of Bunk-Bed angle steel.
If you spend enough time with the track, you'll see plenty of people with half million dollar toter homes and a pile of parts for a race car and also people with 30-year-old rusted out pickups and a flatbed trailer and a car that has a lot of money in it and goes really fast. It's all about priorities. Some people would rather put all their money into things that make the car fast. Other people would prefer to travel in style and just have fun at the track. Lots of in between.
 

iagsxr

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Higher end race trailers come with flaps. You should be able to find out what they use for material.

I feel like I've seen them mounted to the door so lay flat automatically when the door is opened then slide along the floor and form an almost perfect 90° when it's closed. I'd see if I could figure that out and go that route before I mounted it to the floor.
 
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cspcrx

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Gimpyrobb that is an option but something else to secure and have bounce around. Thats why I really like the hinged flap. As iagsxr points out I’ve seen higher end trailers with them. Going to the track next weekend so will nose around a little.

I found one that is 1/8“ that they confirmed they use 3003 aluminum for $125. Makes sense because it bends the easiest and is cheaper. I gathering this is what most are made of when they are made out of aluminum. I could then weld another 1/8” extra aluminum in the two spots where the tires roll over it to strengthen those two spots.
 

kerrynzl

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If you spend enough time with the track, you'll see plenty of people with half million dollar toter homes and a pile of parts for a race car and also people with 30-year-old rusted out pickups and a flatbed trailer and a car that has a lot of money in it and goes really fast. It's all about priorities. Some people would rather put all their money into things that make the car fast. Other people would prefer to travel in style and just have fun at the track. Lots of in between.

That is the story of my life since I've been hanging out at tracks since the mid 60's.
I've seen 2 schools of thought to financing racing
1: only race when you can afford it
2: use your total net worth AND all you all can borrow
[most of us are somewhere in between]
 

kerrynzl

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Thank you! i the same thing all the time. I had an open deck trailer for years but in my older age I am getting soft and am looking to travel further to events so an enclosed trailer helps so much.

yes the gate transition flap is plywood. Trailer company sells them specifically for this purpose made out of marine grade plywood. I believe it’s 3/4 inch. Sure makes getting up on the ramp nice and easy.
Can you just cut some plywood to fill the gap while loading/unloading, then take it out to close the door?

This ^^^^ But hinge it

If you want to attach a lazy man's flap go buy a cheap door latch and cut the hook off [or use eye screws]

1761868409784.png

Screw 0ne loop to the transition flap and the other to the door frame/ body somewhere.
Use a bungee cord to lift the flap up and hold it up out of the way.

To lower the transition flap screw some webbing from the floor to the tailgate over the top of the flap to hold it down.[when it's lowered]

When you close the tailgate the bungee lifts the flap up, when you lower the tailgate the webbing pulls the flap down

You could also screw the webbing to the flap itself instead of the trailer floor
 

whateg01

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Can you just cut some plywood to fill the gap while loading/unloading, then take it out to close the door?
That's an awful idea! Sure fire way to damage the door when somebody is helping and doesn't realize there's an extra step and forces it up. Many a night racing sprint cars where the driver owner can't load up because of an injury and other teams are helping out, even driving the rig back to the owner or driver's house because they are in the hospital and their team is with them.
 

aabirdman

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I've had one of the Pitpal products on our 44' race trailer. 2800lb AA Altered. Never had a problem. If you are going to make your own make sure that the hinge point on the inside of the trailer is back far enough. It has to be further than the amount that the bend will space the flap off the door when raised. That way it will raise up on its own when the door is raised
 
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