Recent content by Dan M

I didn't mention the paperwork side: My permit filing went smoothly, but it was still about 10 days from when I first went to file before it was approved and ready to go. My inspector is available by cell phone and tries to prioritize critical inspections, so my concrete guy talked to him...

I built a detached 32x36 last year. 2x6 framed, scissor trusses, poured footing, 2 courses of blocked on 3 sides, 4th side is 5 courses dug into the side of a hill. Here was my timing: Week 1 (Excavate and all concrete/block): Monday: 2-man excavator crew worked 10 hours, dug out the...

Matt, I wouldn't sweat it. My lumber got soaked last year before the build. The top sheet of OSB bubbled and was ruined, but the rest was fine. The dimensional stuff was OK after sitting for a week with on/off rain. I still have that ruined piece of OSB. The brick layers used it as a snow...

7) Cabinets instead of shelves. As a clutterbug, I will continue to jam an open shelf with junk that doesn't belong. For some reason, having a door on the front stops me from cluttering the shelves. I'm trying to combine this with your #2 of shelves one item deep and one item tall.

I'll try to find a better interior pic. My property (house location, water well, etc) allowed me to fit a 32' wide by 36' deep building. I wanted to keep the roof pitch at 6/12 to be close to the house (house is 8/12). I wanted 9' tall doors with 10' walls. A 6/12 pitch along the 36' depth...

I went back and forth on eve vs gable entry, trying to figure out what looked best against the house. In the end it was decided for me, I have a 18' height restriction, I couldn't match the pitch of the house over 36' without breaking above the 18' limit. My walls are 10' The roof is 6' rise...

Also, depending on what you are doing for doors: In my case the 9' section doors roll up under the front 10' section of attic trusses. Having scissors there would be a waste, since they'd be covered up when the doors are open (The lift has to be set deeper than the doors if they are sectional...

I just finished my build in SE Michigan. 32' wide by 36' deep with the gable end on the front (trusses are 32' span). Trusses are 2' on center, attic for the first 10 feet, then scissors in the middle, the attic again for the last 8 feet. I can put a lift in the middle in the future, with...

I'm in Brighton. Monkey, that's a great looking building!

One more thought: What would you guys recommend for "protection" of the vertical riser next to the garage? The landscape plan is for that strip to be lawn. Does code require anything other than sch80? Should I make a 1'x1' square of paver blocks to keep mowers and string trimmers at bay...

Interesting. . . I guess the only downside is the cost of the joints? I could put one in at each vertical riser. The horizontal pipe expansion due to temp shouldn't be bad, it's only 20 feet long.

Thanks for the quick response. Your prior posts (along with Charles, wyliesdiesels, and others) have been a huge help in my planning. I've got the 2" sch 40 conduit and sweeps. Looks like I just need the LB's and the sch80 for the above ground sections.

Hello, I've been lurking / reading for a long time, finally ready to make a post. Thanks in advance for any advice. Quick background: Building a new detached garage. Main panel is a 200 amp GE. Planning the "standard answer" 90 amp breaker to 2-2-2-4 MHF to 100 amp GE panel in the garage...

I've been lurking for a while now. It seems most questions have already been asked and answered (if you dig hard enough!) Currently building a 32x36 in SE Michigan. Concrete is done, getting ready to frame in a couple weeks. I'll post the build over in the gallery, but first I'm heading over...