Recent content by deosola

Very nice!

I wouldn't hesitate to buy 5073 Polyurea. It goes on very easily, hardens quickly, is very hard and very glossy. The only issue is that it is flammable.

With regard to fleck coverage, it is easy to get a heavy coverage; you just keep throwing more on till you get enough. Light coverage isn't too hard either. . .you just pick up less in your hands and toss that amount. But medium is difficult because you have to pick just enough, toss it so...

Sat morning: Epoxy-Coat was great looking. It didn't even look like it needed a top coat. But I wanted to put the Polyurea on anyways. The 5073 Polyurea is very easy to use. Of the steps here, the top coat was done in about an hour. It spreads like easily but it is so clear that it is...

Friday evening was Epoxy-Coat. While the etch and primer were done by myself alone, I had a friend help w/the Epoxy-Coat. This really does help since Epoxy-Coat does indeed get hot and thick fairly quickly. Key lesson, make small batches and have a friend help you. I also put on the fleck...

Friday morning was the primer. I applied it staring around 10:30 and finished about 12:30. The 4100 primer was absorbed easily by the concrete. Some areas needed another coating because the floor "drank" it up. I know Epoxy-Coat doesn't recommend a primer and usage of one probably voids...

I have pictures. . .but it looks like this forum requires a picture hosting site that I don't use.

Etching Thursday evening I cleaned and etch. I used muratic acid instead of the stuff supplied by Epoxy-Coat. I also used a stiff scrubbing brush which I used to "sprinkle" the acid on the floor. Nothing much to say about this step except that it is important.

I spent the past 3 days laying down epoxy on my garage. I used the following products: 1) 4100 Primer from Versatile Building Products 2) 1.5 kits of epoxy from Epoxy-Coat 3) 5073 Polyurea from Versatile Building Products 4) Paint buckets from Lowes. . .including a six 5qt paint...

I started the process on Thursday afternoon w/the cleaning and etching. (Note: I didn't not use what Epoxy-Coat supplied for the etching. I thought I needed something stronger, so I bought muriatic acid from Lowes.) Friday morning I put on the primer (4100 Primer from Versatile Building...

That's a good question. I actually bought Epoxy-Coat without the "normal" top clear coat because there didn't seem any advantage. And I also wasn't aware of the details of their Polyurea when I purchased the system. Since the company that sells 5073 is a 20 min drive from my house, I just...

Yeah. . .I'm aware of the warranty issue w/the primer but it seems to make sense to put it in. So I'm going to try it out. I will post pictures of the progress.

What I'm actually doing is the following: 1) Clean and Etch 2) Primer Coating (4100 from http://www.garagecoatings.com/Industrial-Coatings/Clear-Floors/4100-Clear-Vapor-Blocking-Penetrative-Epoxy-Primer-Sealer-15G.html?keyword=4100) 3) Epoxy-Coat 4) Polyurea (5073 from...

Thanks! I assume that means the Epoxy-Coat after 12 hours (but before 24 hours) will still be tacky but not hard. . .is that correct? If that is correct, will we need spiked shoes to put the top coat on? Or will the tacky Epoxy-Coat not pick up our shoe prints when applying the top layer?

How long can I wait after laying down Epoxy-Coat before I can lay down the top coat without the need to sand down the Epoxy-coat? I want to lay down the top coat w/the Epoxy-Coat is still tacky. What is the min time needed and how long is too long?