Recent content by discbrks

This is a brand new panel, but I have no paperwork on it and the decal inside is too weathered to read. Anyone recognize this and can tell me what amp it is?

Falcon67 - The walls have house wrap on them, should I put felt on top of that? Can I put the screws in the low spots or should they be on the high ones? Any other steel building I see, they are on the high spots.

cyamaha, horizontal furring strips? If the walls were only studs without any OSB, then I could see where you're coming from. What's the reason to use them over the OSB? I'm assuming closure strips are the wavy foam that is the same profile as the tin. What is rat guard? Where do I buy that...

So my 32x36 if finally framed, sheathed, and house wrapped. I think I'll use hardie on the 3 visible sides, but the back (36' long x 9' tall) I'm considering using corrugated tin roof panels as the siding. Looking for something no-maintenance, cheap, and I like the look. Dad suggests 3/8 foam...

i don't have louvers yet, but i do plan on installing them in the future. So if the louvers use up the 2x4 stud space, should the fan have its own frame? Or should I frame it with 2x6's and mount it flush to the inside of them?

I have a Dayton 3C149 belt driven exhaust fan. The blade diameter is 48" and the overall shroud is 54" square. This will be mounted high in the gable end of the shop wall. Shop walls are standard 2x4 16" o/c construction. Should the fan be mounted flush to the inside of the 2x4s?

I was at Lowes yesterday and saw some 3x3 sliding windows. I like the sliding part, and they were fairly cheap. On the 32' wall, if I install one at 8' and the other at 24', then they "should" look balanced and that gives me 10' of workbench between the windows. What height should they be...

Sure do... it's coming up next month. Perry swap meet is the weekend before Moultrie.

I'm about to begin framing my 32x36. The 32' sides have the gable end and will have a 4'x4' shop fan in them up high towards the peak. One of the 32' walls will be the "work center" - meaning there will be a workbench on most of that wall. I'd like to put windows above the workbench, but not...

3M sells a product line called Dura-Mix. We use it in the bodyshop alll the time. The only problem is that you need a special "gun" to apply it. but your local bodyshop should have the gun and apply it for you.

I had to do the same thing for my shop to get it above grade, however the top coarse of block had a 4" notch in them. When I poured the floor, I filled the entire wall as well. Rebar bent at 90* into the cells and tied to the wire in the floor. If you're iffy about the mortar joints, then I...

I'm a damage adjuster at a body shop. The worst part about aftermarket bumper cover (whether it's from eBay or Unique Industries or wherever) is that they seem to fit poorly, especially where the bumper meets the quarter. I'd put an OEM Kia bumper cover on it - if you want it to look like it's...

I bet the purlin clips are on the bottom of the truss - not the horzontal brace. That horizontal brace bolts in after you bolt together the 2 halves of the truss.

I work at a body shop. We have 2 Unicure booths. You can see them here: www.thebodyshop.bz and click on shop tour. We probably run both booths at near-max capacity 5 days a week. No trash issues. Gas heat in the booths. And an air dryer too.

I had my slab poured about a month ago. I don't think winters around here (and in N. Alabama) are cold enough for radiant heat. I did put down a vapor barrier and that should keep the slab from feeling "wet cold" Purlin clips on the bottom is really a neat idea. Wish I had that option.