Recent content by djbmw

Those appear to be latex gloves which do well in certain situations. They differ greatly compared to nitrile, however (in terms of chemical and oil resistance, primarily). They also cost more because latex comes from latex trees and costs $$ to harvest.

Medicom Vulcan General-Purpose Nitrile Gloves  from Costco are what I swear by. They hold up very well and are innexpensive.

A 10" blade will get you to 3.3" of depth and a 4.5" blade will get almost to 1.5" of depth. I didnt know how deep your floor was currently but assumed it was a shallow pour, which is why you want thicker for the lift pads. However, the blade doesnt have to cut through the entire depth... if you...

Generally power connectors (like USB-C) will have legs that are soldered into board thru-holes. This provides the rigidity needed to ensure longevity with repeated use and vibration. Do you have feet on your proprietary power connector, and thru-holes on the board to solder it to? How big is...

I've only ever used a two part potting epoxy. Generally you want it quite liquid to fully encapsulate the compoments without trapping air. I would imagine an epoxy putty could trap air and/or not fully encase compoments. Personally, I would try to make a dam, angle the device, or try some way to...

Ha! But... technicaly, if all else is equal, you would have more available power. If your home AC is feeding 220v to the machine at 50amps you have 11,000 available watts... vs. powering it with a generator thats supporting 240v at 50amps, yielding 12,000 available watts. So, assuming your...

Nice! If possible, wire up a 220v outlet to run it, if you're cutting anything thicker than sheet steel. Its a good little plasma cutter and you'll be amazed with it. Practicing different techniques will also make your nozzle, electrodes, and cups last longer... but eventually you'll want to buy...

30 linear feet at 2-4" depth is decent before showing signs of degredation. Why are you using a 14" blade though? Your job doesnt call for such a large (and expensive) blade. A 10" blade, for example, is half the cost of your 14" blade and will do the job just as well. Heck, if your current...

The internals are mostly the same across all the chinese brands....and, with a chinese model, consumables are cheap and plentiful. Im on my 2nd unit in 23 years. This one is currently $161 CAD...

Im surprised it sold for that much! They are $160 brand new from Amazon without a pilot arc... and $210 with a pilot arc. If you use a cut off wheel often enough right now, your plasma will replace 80% of that work and will get the job done in a fraction of the time. Consumable cost is similar...

I owned a Duolift 6500 (screw drive),.. and it worked OK for years on cars and light weight vehicles. As soon as I started lifting heavier vehicles, it began to jam and stall all the time. This ended up being the straw that broke the camels back, and I ended up taking the lift to the scrap yard...

I also agree that screw-type lifts are a major PITA - and you should start planning on upgrading to a hydraulic one. Having said that, I edited my post above with clearance measurements. Usually, these will never change. However, if the sensor for "max down" has failed, you could easily force...

Ah yes... the Duolift. The lift nut and jam nut, when worn down, can occasionally jam - leaving a car stuck up in the air. There's supposed to be a cover on those nuts with a circle that you can stick a screw driver or punch through... but it looks like you removed it? Anyway, if the two get...

Its a Walco Whistler Rotary Cutter (bush hog) that I bought used for a couple hundred dollars (it was beat up and I had to weld a few patches onto the top to get the gearbox back in line). I'm absolutely under-powering it with only ~14 HP to the PTO... but... it gets the job done driving slowly...

The guseted trolly braces reminds me of Autolifters of America 2 post lifts