Recent content by dockterj

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vise-Adapter-for-G7943-44/G7959?utm_campaign=zPage http://www.grizzly.com/products/Vise-Adapter-for-G1199-G1200-G4008-G4009/G1162?utm_campaign=zPage

I know the OP linked to a picture of annular cutters but without knowing what he is trying to do they may not be the best solution. "Core drills" in the context of enlarging holes usually mean three or four flute non center cutting drills that look something like this...

google for "hss core drill". Are you looking for straight shank or morse taper? what is the existing hole diameter and how much larger are you making it?

I did essentially the same thing with rivet racking in my garage. You might have to use a spacer to get the shelves level but other than that go for it.

If you dig into Enerpac's website they have a drawing of the press complete with dimensions. It would be pretty easy to replicate. If you already have a porta-power I think this is a very useful setup.

OK - I don't **** so much - I got the press for $5, still had to buy a pump and cylinder. I think I bought a couple of packages on ebay and sold off what I didn't need and ended up having around $100 total in it. It's very handy but 10 tons isn't as much as you might think. And it weighs...

I got it at an auction for $5 - no one knew what it was :)

This is what I have: http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/industrial-tools-imperial/hydraulic-presses/a-ip-series-arbor-c-clamp-and-bench-frame-presses (the IP series which is a scaled down press, not the C clamp style).

Center drill or spotting drill? I wouldn't use a center drill in a hand drill motor - very likely to snap off the tip.

yousesteers - that is the "normal" residential lighted switch. From a wiring standpoint it doesn't look any different from a non-lighted switch. Internally the lamp is wired between the switch contacts. It relies on leakage current through the load (the light bulb) when the switch is off.

I'm pretty sure this is how the switch is wired internally (first pic). If so, this would be the easiest way to wire it up (second pic). I'm confused by them marking the tabbed screwes "line" but this is an industrial switch and the light can be controlled by anything.

Not sure about my advice now. The "line" looks like it has the tab. If that is the case then I would think the "line" screw should go to the load, the screw opposite the "line" by the switch should go to the load (the light) then a neutral needs to be on the other (non-tabbed) screw. Do you...

Pilot light switches require a neutral to function. The screw marked line goes to the unswitched hot wire (black). The tabbed screw across from it goes to the load (light). Leave the tab in place and no wire on the tabbed screw across from the pilot (this is the switched hot to the pilot...

Could be 4160 steel.

will do 2:1 on trades. thanks!