Recent content by Electric_Light

If you were an OEM, you'd find every possible way to save every penny, but in your case, I would use 10/3 SJOOW or simply match the existing wires. If you pull it apart, strip the outer jacket, you should be able to figure out the gauge of the existing wires. The only reason to step down to...

Get rid of your cars, buy a Prius.

The contacts are worn out and pitted. No point in testing it. It's done.

So, I got less than 10 hour per assumption wrong. Ok? Where you're coming up with 33W is beyond me. 35W came from Philips' self reported LM79 report: HZ13090016a/R1 that 14.5T8LED lamps used with Philips Advance ICN2P32N at 120V resulted in 3211 lm per 34.8W. From here, you can see that...

The answer isn't blasting more lumens everywhere. You could benefit from a track light along the sides so you can aim them for relatively shadow free mix of direct/indirect(off the wall) lighting. This is the same generally idea as an operating room lighting. The use of LED wouldn't be...

You've got to be kidding. That LED-drop in only delivers 1,600 lm per lamp. Philips two lamp ICN2P32N will operate one lamp at 1.05 for 37W, so you can get F32T8/HL and get 3,150 lm. (3,255 lm initial, if you care about this number..)

Computers are 12.0v. Cars are 13.5 to 14v with the engine on and this is your target. If you're seeing 12v, your battery is drained..

Your number is completely unreasonable. Philips used NEMA Pemium ballast and reported 3200 lm per 35W. You save wattage, but you get proportionately lower light output. A standard two lamp F32T8 fixture from the 1990s use 59W and consumes 228kWh/year with 3,800 hrs/year usage, which is over...

The LED drop-ins are meant for fixtures already attached to buildings that isn't cheap to remove and replace. If you just want LED just to have LED, I'd get an LED fixture which is about the same or cheaper than buying LED tubes and a fixture.

Drop-in LEDs are meant for commercial fluorescent fixtures with one wire going to each lamp end. It does not work with some consumer shop lights. The lady who reviewed the Philips InstantFit said it didn't work in her consumer grade shop light. Google it. The page is called Designs with LEDs...

If the lamps fail early, blame the ballast. There are some Sunpark, Fulham and such that burn the lamps outside of specs. You'll find out in a year or two.

https://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Documents/ECS402.f06fbcb6-bfc2-4dd1-a58c-1d34689b4960.pdf Breaks the 100 here. Philips ICN2P32N and 25 watt 48 T8 Philips lamp gets you 2 by 2500 x 0.92 for 45W, so you get 102.2 LPW at 4600 lm. This lamp is $4-5. Cree lamp is $30-35. Cree lamp is only...

Energy service sales companies and VCs love LEDs because they're extremely expensive and provide immediate cash flow. The inadequate warranty terms show they have a parachute built-in to protect themselves from LED risks. Unsold inventory and reduction in prices make "parts only" warranty down...

198v and 252v

Without a traffic pattern log, it's hard to say if you benefit from PRS. Just to compare, a PRS CFL would last longer, but I believe anything that takes 0.5 seconds or more don't meet Energy Star, because consumers expect light-bulb like starting. A quad pin-based CFL, T8 or T5 PRS takes...